Tag: Italy

Vatican City

Leave a comment

Back to Rome

 

The smallest country in the world with less than a square kilometer in area, having its own police force, army and diplomatic corps, Vatican City sits as an island within the Rome city limits separated by a wall. The state was established in the middle ages, and was obliterated in the 19th century under the Italian state, but was finally re-established in 1929 in lieu of the Lateran Treaty between the Italian state and the Holy See.

Suggested Time Spent: 5 Hours     |     Admission: €40.00+ for Adults   |    Hours: Varies (Check details here)

Roaming around the St. Peter’s Basilica you will spot guards in their fancy dresses; theyVatican Swiss Guards are the Swiss Guards. Originally founded in the 16th century by Julius II for Pope’s personal security, their evocative uniforms designed by Michaelangelo himself has remained the same for five centuries.

Top things to see

As you enter through the doors of the Vatican, you will be guided through the museums and the gardens, eventually making way to the St. Peter’s square. While you can roam around as much as you want, it is difficult to come back to Sistine Chapel without a tour group, so take your time while there. We list out some of the key attractions –

St. Peter’s Basilica 

Possibly the most iconic of the buildings, the dome visible from afar, St. Peter’s Basilica sits at the top of the St. Peter’s square. This is where the heart of Christianity has resided for two thousand years. Constantine, converted to Christianity, built a basilica at the spot where St. Peter was martyred. First residence of the Bishop was also built here in the 500’s. Over time this grew in size, and use of the basilica has evolved. Many famous artists including Raphael, Michaelangelo, Bramante and Carlo Maderno were commissioned to enhance the beauty and dominant structures.

It was in 1600’s when Bernini built the huge piazza (see below) and the current intricate facade of the Basilica. Top of the dome, commissioned by Michaelangelo is accessible by 500 steps. At the top of the facade, there are equestrian statues of Constantine , first Christian Emperor and first Emperor of the Holy Roman Empire. There are five entrances to the Basilica, each with its own flamboyant artistry.

Feel free to ditch the tour group as you enter the majestic Basilica, the biggest Christian Church, and your jaw drops admiring the incredible detail and peaceful vastness. Pieta by Michaelangelo and the Statue of St. Peter are remarkable. You won’t miss the gigantic Baroque structure in bronze, Baldachin by Bernini. Under this structure is the Tomb of St. Peter.

Piazza San Pietro

An elliptical area harmoniously open to the heavens and an obelisk with the True Cross at its peak reaching up to the heavens, St. Peter’s Square has been the center of Christianity for centuries. Featured in many popular movies, this piazza is flocked by tourists all the time. This is where the papal audience swarms in and the faithful cheer on during the pope election process.

On the perimeter, you will find astonishing colonnades by Bernini with 284 Doric pillars and 140 statues set in perfect harmony. There are two remarkable fountains as well on either side of the obelisk. From the end of the piazza, the triangular roof of the Sistine Chapel along with the famous chimney is also visible.

Sistine Chapel

Our first glimpse of the inside of the Sistine Chapel was a mixed bag of awe for the number of masterpieces all around, and the smaller than expected size of it. From the novels and movies, it appeared larger; but in no means the grandeur of the artwork alone dumbstruck us. About 40 meters long, 20 meters high and 13 meters wide, it was built in the 15th century sort of imitating Noah’s Ark. Frescoes in the walls contain scenes from Life of Moses to Life of Jesus by Botticelli, Signorelli, Perugino and

Pinturicchio. The greatest masterpieces though are in the ceiling – by Michelangelo between 1508 and 1512. The gigantic biblical scenes, executed by the artist alone, including a variety of poses ranging from the Creation and Original Sin to Redemption. The most iconic is the Creation of Adam where the divine finger is almost touching the first man. The other significant work worth mentioning here is the Last Judgement in the wall made up of 390 naked yet uniquely posing figures surrounding the Christ and the Judge.

Vatican Museums

On and around the Basilica, you will walk through different halls within the Vatican Museum. The intricate artwork and vivid paintings in the hallways and staircases will overwhelm you in minutes. I tried taking notes, but could not keep pace. From what I could recall, over time, the Vatican museums have accumulated so much worth of antiquities, from Egyptian and medieval tapestries to Renaissance paintings, that it is humanely impossible to admire in one go. See below some pictures, though admittedly they do not do justice.

The Gallery of Maps on your way to the Raphael rooms is one of our favorites. It boasts topographical maps of the Italian peninsula from a 16th century perspective. If looked at carefully, you will find intricate historical evidence (e.g. Malta being part of Italy) and that history is written by winners. The vaulted ceilings, however, with its vibrant colors steal the thunder easily.

Before entering the Raphael rooms through the narrow corridor, look out of the balcony to the Belvedere Courtyard which was home to Pope Julius II. But surprise! Its a parking lot now, and looking at those fancy Alpha Romeos will suddenly bring you back to reality from appreciating the splendor inside. But keep walking to the incredible Raphael Rooms where 16th century renaissance masterclasses by Raphael are embellished on the vaulted ceilings and the walls. I would list down the paintings here, but it is a rather long and arduous task which I’d like to refrain from lest the reader loses interest.

Tips

  • More than 15,000 people on average visit Vatican city every day! So expect things to get a bit crowded.
  • Because of the same reason above, there is a queue every day at the entrance to the Vatican Museums. The wait times can be up to 5 hours at its worst. So, definitely buy the tickets online.
  • Even with a ‘skip the line’ kind of ticket, the tour groups in a guided tour are not small, and in the crowd it becomes difficult to follow. Instead be an early bird and get there before 7:30 a.m. Foot traffic is a lot less at that hour, and will give you a bit more breathing space to enjoy the masterpieces.
  • The tours, for whatever reason, is extremely hurried. You hardly get a chance to appreciate the splendor.
  • Remember, the tickets are one time use only but gives you access to all the museums inside. Take your time and plan ahead to spend up to 5 hours inside.
  • Dress Code – The Vatican has a fairly strict dress code. Cover your shoulders (no off-shoulder or halter neck tops/dresses) and knees (no shorts, hot pants and short skirts/dresses). Because Rome gets pretty hot during the summer months, bring a shrug or light scarf to cover the bare skin while you are inside. Also, hats and food are not allowed.
  • Passport/Visa – Remember this is a different country, so carrying your passport is advisable, although we never had to show it. Visa is not required if you are in the Schengen area, and no, you won’t get your passport stamped in Vatican ;-).
  • Photography – While it is generally okay to take as many photos as you want, it is absolutely not allowed in the Sistine Chapel. Do not try, guards are watching punctiliously.  Instead, stay quiet and look up to admire the Michaelangelo’s.

Trastevere Neighborhood

Leave a comment

Back to Rome

Rome, as many other cities, cannot be covered in one trip. In your first trip, once you have taken the touristy trips to Colosseum and Vatican City, and threw in a coin in the Trevi Fountain, take a breather to soak in the city vibes a bit farther from the touristy hot-spots and spend an evening strolling through the Trastavere neighborhood.

Located on the west bank of the river Tiber, just south of the Tiberina island, it is a quaint and hip neighborhood swarming with little cafes, cobblestone streets and boutiques. While being developed as a charming little area, its history has been much darker. The slaves were kept here in the medieval times, Jews were sent here to live in tiny quarters during the Christian uprising, and had always been treated as a village for

the poor in the modern times. Some relics suggest that this neighborhood occasionally got its wealthier residents to move in as well along with becoming a hub for sailors due to proximity to the river. Inculcating the mix of abject poverty and a commercial zone, Trastavere developed to being a delightful town outside the city center.

While you walk through the narrow alleys devoid of sunlight, run the imaginations wild to visualize the squalid living of the residents 500 years ago. On your strolls along the cobblestone paths, you will find street art, graffiti covered shutters, incredibly decorated doors, colorful scooters parked in front of vibrant walls and locals mingling outside boutiques and cafes. Take time to appreciate the art while you watch out for a runaway bike in the midst of neighborhood children playing. To some it may appear sordid to see clothes hung to dry from the windows and wires connecting two buildings, that some of the doors are rusted and brickwork peeking from the weathered wall art. But the real glamour is in its people and the history behind it all.

While you are here, pay a visit to the Basilica di Santa Maria Trastavere in the main square. It is one of the oldest in the area, dating back to 12th century. Among all the souvenir shops and cafes in the perimeter of the square, appreciate the architecture of the buildings that has held its own through the ages.

While you are here, leave your diet at the hotel room lest you miss out on the opportunity to relish the delectable homemade pasta and those afogatos (Gelato covered with espresso). Sneak in to one of the cafes camouflaged by plants on its doors and walls, sit on one of the worn out benches to applaud the street performers playing the flute, or just relax in a cafe with outdoor seating sipping the well deserved chianti, no matter what ticks you, you will find something to amuse on here.

The Borghese Gallery

2 comments

Back to Rome

With its rich heritage of accomplished artists and remarkable artwork, Rome obviously has a lot to offer in terms of art. While some of its inventory of artwork is preserved in museums and churches, there are a whole lot weathering in open air piazzas. Within the realm of museums, while some of the crowded and publicized ones like Sistine Chapel holds renowned paintings, other masterclasses are tucked away in lesser known galleries. One of the examples of such underrated galleries, is the Galleria Borghese Gallery.

Suggested Time Spent: 2-3 Hours     |     Admission: € 15 for Adults    |    Hours: 9AM – 7PM

Home of the famous and influential Borghese family who settled in Rome in the 16th century, the Villa Borghese was built by Giovanni Vasanzio. The family had close ties to the church, with some of them becoming cardinals and one becoming Pope Paul V. The museum has about 10 rooms of varying sizes containing masterpieces ranging from sculptures, frescoes and paintings. Be sure to look up the ceiling and also look down on the floors for beautiful and intricate mosaic art work. The sculptures and frescoes on the doors are worth hundred words too.

Sculptures

The Statue of Paolina Bonaparte (Napoleon’s sister) as Venus by Canova, and David by Bernini, smaller than the one by Michaelangelo are two of the most famous statues. Apollo and Daphne and Rape of Proserpine by Bernini are two other prominent statues decorating the rooms. Embodied in all of the above are feminine sensuality and masculine gladiatorial poise.

Paintings

Among the paintings, Sacred and Profane Love by Titian, Madonna dei Palafrenieri by Caravaggio, Deposition by Raphael and David with the head of Goliath by Caravaggio were our favorites. In the large room, the expansive fresco in the ceiling with Angels and peasants embellished by Christ was impressive.

Due to the sheer lack of crowds and the layout, we could get so close to the artwork. Plus the wide variety of masterclasses on display, starting from the imposing statues by Bernini and the darker sides depicted by Caravaggio, are somewhat unparalleled in all the museums in the area.

Tips

  • Galleria Borghese has a maximum occupancy system that keeps crowds to an optimum level ensuring viewing comfort. So tickets are limited, and a reservation is recommended. We went without one, and had no trouble with crowds, but we heard that it can get busy sometimes. Check the details here.
  • It is one of the few museums with detailed descriptions for each room. So self guided tours are possible, albeit will take a bit more time.
    • If you do not have a human guide, buy the audio guides at the ticket counter, but not required
  • It has a small cafe serving snacks and coffee. Bit pricey but if you are going to take a walk in the large Park Borghese on your way to Piazza del Popolo, suggest filling up the bottles and getting some energy back.

 

Castel Sant’Angelo

Leave a comment

Back to Rome

On the western bank of the River Tiber, a prominent round structure, the Sant’Angelo castle can be seen from a distance. It was built by Emperor Hadrian as a mausoleum for himself in 130 A.D. As you enter through the courtyard, you can see the double line of windows sculpted by Michaelangelo. There are many rooms in the castle, but most people without a bit of background would find them fairly monotonous. If you have read Dan Brown’s Angels and Demons, you can find the castle courtyard and the prison featured in the novel.

Suggested Time Spent: 1 Hour     |     Admission: €14 for Adults   |    Hours: 9AM – 7:30PM (More details here)

Best selling point of the Castle though from a photo opportunity perspective is the terrace from where a panoramic vista of Rome including the Vatican City can be enjoyed. We recommend visiting the Castle in the afternoon after the trip to the Vatican city as you are in the neighborhood of Prati. You can cross the bridge, Ponte Sant’Angelo, built in 2nd century A.D. to reach the other side in the quaint neighborhood of Rione v Monti.

The bridge itself is full of street vendors trying to sell knock-off handbags and souvenirs; we highly recommend swaying away and focus on the views instead. Ten angels, designed by Bernini in the 17th Century, will welcome you to either side.

Trevi Fountain

One comment

Back to Rome

Rome is home to a number of iconic fountains and some more not-as-exuberant ones around the city. In some, water sprouts out from a Lion’s mouth, stone masks in others. But in terms of grandeur, nothing beats the Trevi; a brilliant Baroque creation, in an elaborate display of sculptures, headed by the chariot of Neptune shaped like a shell, drawn by sea horses and led by tritons.

Suggested Time Spent: <1 Hour     |     Admission: Free   |    Hours: All day, but lights turned off at night

The original plan of the design originates from the 16th century by Bernini, but political troubles pushed back the commissioning of the construction to 18th century. Completed by Nicola Salvi in the 18th century, the water comes from the aqueduct of Acqua Virgo, it likely gets its name from the ‘junction of three roads’. The statues are carved from Carrara marbles and the facade is built from travertine limestone.

As in other Baroque creations, the facade and the statues in the Trevi carries symbolic significance. The statue of Oceanus, the horses depicting the mood of the sea, tritons bringing joy and peace to the earth, and the statues of health, abundance can all be found upon close inspection in this elaborate construction.

Above all the art and history, as legend has it, you should also throw a coin with your right hand over your left shoulder while facing back to the fountain. Many good things can happen including a second visit to Rome, falling in love with a Roman, even marrying one. Pick your poison. Before signing off, I’d ask you – can you estimate the annual monetary value of all the coins thrown in the water of Trevi Fountain? Leave the calculation framework in the comments.

Tips

  • Visit once during the day and once during night. The colors are spectacular at night. Although after 10pm, the lights are turned off in summer.
  • For a photo op without the crowds, after sunrise, around 8 am is a good time.
  • For several reasons, Trevi is one of the worst spots for losing valuables and belongings. Watch your back and bags. One more reason to avoid the crowded times.

    La Dolce Vita in Trevi

    Anita Ekberg in Fellini’s La Dolce Vita

  • Fun fact – many Italians and international cinema critics remember La Dolce Vita, where Anita Ekberg bathes in the Trevi fountain. Don’t think it is allowed anymore, but food for thought.

Pantheon

Leave a comment

Back to Rome

Sitting in the central parts of the city, this iconic structure has held its own for more than two millenniums. Built a few years before Christ was born in honor of Augustus, Pantheon is one of the very few structures retaining its antiquity. Historians attribute the preservation to the fact that Pantheon has continually being used for multiple purposes over the years.

Suggested Time Spent: 1 Hour     |     Admission: Free   |    Hours: 9AM – 6PM

It went from being a memorabilia to a church to being a political hub after the medieval ages. Structurally, the round plan, a cylindrical wall supporting the dome is common to Roman architecture. But the dome, 43 meters high and same width, was an engineering feat at that time. This vault is bigger than St. Peter’s, and is probably the largest built in that time. The only source of light into the vault, the 9 meters wide hole at the top of the dome, illuminates the facade in dreamy light.

Multi colored marbles in the two stories in the inside walls create an interplay of colors in mysterious light and shadows. Including the aforesaid purposes, Pantheon also holds tombs of famous artists, e.g. Raphael, and members of Savoy family and emperors.

Outside, the wide columns are large enough that it takes four adults to measure the circumference by holding each others’ hands. The 6 meters tall obelisk, Macuteo, and the fountain sits in the square in front of the Pantheon.

Tips

  • The shops and restaurants around the Pantheon are infamous tourist traps. Although it may be convenient to pick up souvenirs, it is not advisable to have a full meal in the nearby restaurants; sub-par quality yet pricey.
  • Walk to the nearby Church of Maria Sopra Minerva, almost next door to the back of the Pantheon. On your way there, you can spot the back side of Pantheon to appreciate the founding blocks of the structure. Admire one of the best obelisks (out of a total of thirteen in Rome), designed by Bernini, where an elephant is carrying the obelisk.

Piazza Navona

Leave a comment

Back to Rome

An incredible jewel in the Roman Baroque scene, Piazza Navona is one of the most visited tourist attractions in Rome. Travelers, street vendors, and petty thieves flock to this wide piazza almost the entire day. But we found this pleace to quiet down after 8pm, when you can take a breather by one of the fountain side or on the benches in the perimeter while sipping an after dinner espresso.

Suggested Time Spent: 1 Hour     |     Admission: Free   |    Hours: All day, but churches are closed after midnight

What used to be an arena for naval warfare and athletic competitions, Piazza Navona hosts two of the greatest Baroque geniuses – Gian Lorenzo Bernini and Francesco Borromini. Bernini created the fountain of the rivers (Ganges, Nile, Danube and Plate) with the obelisk at the center stage; Borromini designed the Church of Sant’Agnese in Agone. There are two other fountains – Neptune and Moro. Around the square, there are splendid palaces, library, and a Church (Church of Nostra Signora) from the 15th century.

Around the square, there are several other masterpieces, including the Church of Saint Luigi dei Francesi which has canvasses by Caravaggio from 16th century. In a walk from Pantheon to Piazza Navona, this is hard to miss. The side streets to the east and west of the piazza are shoppers paradise, although we have found these locations not optimum for getting the best prices. Read more about shopping here.

Piazza del Popolo

Leave a comment

Back to Rome

The people’s square, the Piazza del Popolo with the obelisk at its center and two identical churches, is one of our favorite places to have casual meals and relax in Rome. Structurally, the piazza sits at the intersection of three streets, via del Babuino, via di Ripetta and via del Corso. Sitting at one of the steps or the balls in the perimeter, enjoy the timeless view of the cathedrals.

The obelisk was erected in 1589 by Pope Sixtus V, and the two churches Santa Maria di Montesanto and Santa Maria dei Miracoli were completed in the years after. Although both look identical, dome of one of them is actually oval in order to fit in the asymetric space.

The best view of the square, however, is from the gardens of the Pincio above the piazza. It is easier to access the terrace (Terraza del Pincio) from the Park villa Borghese. After you visit the Borghese Gardens and Borghese Art Gallery, take an afternoon walk through the park. It is a popular place for kids, evening walkers and even runners. (Read more on Borghese Gallery and Park here). One of the best sunset views with Piazza del Popolo can be found from the Pincio Terrace.

View of Piazza del Popolo from Pincio Gardens

Look down into the Piazza del Popolo from Pincio Gardens

Roman Forum

Leave a comment

Back to Rome

Ever experienced the mystic romance of walking down ancient streets while admiring grandiose facades of 2000 year old buildings? If not, a stroll down the alleys in Roman Forum (Fora Romano) is tailor-made for you. From the remnants of the ancient buildings, visualize an established society with its courthouses, market place and religious hubs with the Colosseum in the backdrop.

Suggested Time Spent: 2-3 Hours     |     Admission: € 12 for Adults   |    Hours: 9AM – 7PM

As your journey to probably the oldest ruins in the city, begin walking west from Forum of Nerva on via dei Fori Imperialli. Looking east, you should be able to see a portion of the Colosseum. Even before you enter the Roman Forum, try taking a walk along the street with your view of the Foro di Nerva to the right. Walk straight up west towards the Campidoglio.

It is apt that diving into the ancient stories begin from the solemn Capitol, the acropolis of the ancient Rome. Up the stairs from the street level, you will enter the Piazza di Michaelangelo and a view of the equestrian statue of Emperor Marcus Aurelius. The capitol building was actually used as a prison in the middle ages, but in 1500’s, Pope Paull III commissioned Michaelangelo to build the structure. Three palaces with very identical facades around the piazza (Palazzo Senatario, Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori mark the boundaries. Be sure to check out the balustrades with statues placed over the cornices all around.

Walk to the left of the twin statues (8 o’clock from the statue of Marcus Aurelis), for a view of the Roman forum from a higher vantage point in the Palatine Hill. From here you can see most of the major spots within and outside the Roman Forum including the Temple of Saturn, Foro di Cesar, Septimius Severus arch, etc. Numerous photos later, trace back the path to the street level and walk back to the entrance of Roman Forum.

Roman Forum

This was the center of ancient Rome; it was the hub of political, commercial and religious activities back then. Take a right after entering the forum, and walk to the archaic black stone (Lapis Niger), the arch of Settimus Severius (built 203 A.D.). Like many others built in this era, this arch was to commemorate his win in the Parthians war. Check out the details in the outer flanks of the arch, possibly some narrative of the victorious but the artistry is phenomenal. Towards the foot of the capitoline hills, the remains of the Temple of Saturn stand upright. It was used to keep public treasury.

Looking away from the arch of Settimus Severius, on the left sits the most important building of that time, the Curia or the senate. It was the political center of ancient Rome. Next to the Curia, is the oldest Basilica (Basilica Emilia) of which only a few relics remain. From the arch, walk south towards the Temple of Antonius and Faustina which is one of the most preserved buildings. This was built in 141 A.D. in memory of Antonius’ wife, is now converted to a church. Placed on a high podium, the facade and the bronze door is one of the key marvels in the Roman Forum.

On the right you will find the remaining three columns of the Temple of Castor and Pollux. It was erected to commemorate the twin brothers’ key contributions in defeating the Etruscans and Latins. At the south end of the forum, closest to the Colosseum, you will find the simpler but elegant Arch of Titus, built in 81 A.D. Look underneath the arch for splendid relief showing the processing of bringing the spoils from Jerusalem.

Tips

  • Although not as busy as the Colosseum, it is better to buy tickets online (combo of Roman Forum and Colosseum) to save time. There are discounted tickets and free entrance on the first Sunday of a month. Check out the details here.
  • Guided tours are available, and are recommended as there are virtually no signage, especially in English. Smartphone apps like eTips can also be handy. We did not take a guide but followed the smartphone app guide; much cheaper but obviously not as entertaining as a human guide.
  • Take time to learn a little bit about the forum and its buildings lest it becomes boring to walk around the ruins.
  • If you are using a smartphone map, use the bolded location names in this page to navigate easily from point to point.

Spanish Steps in Piazza di Spagna

Leave a comment

Back to Rome

Remember Gregory Peck and Audrey Hepburn walking down the long set of steps with a Church with twin towers in Roman Holiday from the black and white cinema era? Those are the Spanish Steps. From the vantage point on Piazza di Spagna, a remarkable Church, sets of steps and a fountain creates the beautiful facade. A number of other famous work in pop culture including music videos and movies have been set with the iconic steps in the background.

The unusual boat shaped fountain (17th century) at the bottom of the steps, designed by Pietro Bernini, the father of the more famous Gian Lorenzo Bernini, sits in the middle of Piazza di Spagna. Looking up, the double domed Church, named Trinita dei Monti, houses many chapels dedicated to famous noble families. In order to connect the Bourbon Spanish embassy and the Trinita dei Monti in the higher level with the Holy See in Palazzo Monaldeschi at the Piazza di Spagna level, the unique steps were built by architect Francesco De Santis. A wonderful Baroque creation, it has a set of ramps with equal number of steps in each.

From the top of the steps, you can get a picturesque view of the square below with the characteristically similar buildings on either sides of the narrow alleys. On any given evening, while the warm glow of the setting sun adorn the top of the Church, finding a place to sit on the stairs could be a challenge.

Tips

  • For best photo opportunities of this marvel, plan to arrive early in the morning or late in the night.
  • Due to the large number of tourists here, pickpockets and petty thieves swarm this area. Be careful to not pay attention to your belongings while you admire the marvels through your eyes and the lens.
  • Before getting to sit on the steps with your group or by yourself, do not forget to get a coffee from the 18th century coffee-shop Caffe Greco.
  • Stop to admire the street performers playing a classic tune in their violins and flutes. Don’t forget to tip.
  • Last but not the least, if you are a fan, feel free to check out the designer shops in the area. Most recognizable names in the upscale fashion industry have a footprint here.
1 2