Tag: History

Things to know before going to Machu Picchu

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Okay, so you want to go see the lost Inca city up in the mountains? Unlike many other mystical sites around the world, it is not an easy one to get to or even plan for. Thankfully, travel bloggers over the internet has made it an easier job, but one needs to spend a lot of time trying to figure out the steps to ensure their trip to Machu Picchu is worry free.

  • Peru Rail Expedition
  • Urubamba River view from Train ride
  • Town of Aguas Calientes
  • View of the Urubamba Valley
  • Llamas in Machu Picchu
  • Peru Rail Vistadome

Since going to Machu Picchu does require planning well in advance, follow these simple but crucial steps below to ensure your trip to Machu Picchu is all set.

  1. Plan Early: A trip to Machu Picchu is like no other destinations. Due to restrictions (mostly due to sustainability and conservation) on visitors to the site and extremely high demand, we strongly recommend planning and booking the trip at least 3 months in advance. Peak season is June-August, so it is even harder to get bookings.
    • If you are planning to hike the famous Inca Trail, spots get filled even earlier.
  2. Stay in Sacred Valley: Although many tourists make Cusco their ‘base camp’, we found it more rational to go straight to Sacred Valley for a couple of reasons –
    • Distance: It is closer to Machu Picchu (~2 hours less train ride) than from Cusco
    • Altitude: Sacred valley is at a lower elevation than Cusco (3,399 meters), so getting acclimatized to altitude is easier this way
  3. Tickets to Machu Picchu: Even before worrying about transportation to Machu Picchu, book tickets to Machu Picchu site. (Check availability here). There are three different options:
    • Machu Picchu Mountains + Machu Picchu Site – Machu Picchu mountains are located above the site and takes a bit longer to hike, but less strenous than Huyana Picchu. Tourists opt for this if Huyana Picchu tickets are not available.
    • Huyana Picchu Mountains + Machu Picchu Site – Climbing up the steep slopes of Huyana Picchu, albeit worth the hike, is a strenous one. It takes about 2 hours to climb. Need tickets 4 months in advance (in peak season, even this may be too late)
    • Machu Picchu site only – Need at least 3-4 hours to soak in the experience. Tickets are NOT sold at the gate, and must be booked at least 3 days in advance.
  4. Transportation to Machu Picchu: Machu Picchu is located at a remote location, with the closest town being Aguas Calientes. Below are the two options to get to Machu Picchu:
    • Public Transport: A train – bus combination is the easiest –
      • Sacred Valley/Cusco to Aguas Calientes: Two train operators (Peru Rail and Inka Rail) operate trains between these two locations, with very similar service offerings. We took the Peru Rail Expedition train from Ollyantaytambo station at 6 am. It takes about 2 hours to get to Aguas Calientes.
      • Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu: From the station in Aguas Calientes, you will need to walk about 5 minutes, cross the river bridge into the town of Aguas Calientes. Buses leave from there every 10 minutes taking tourists up a spiral road to Machu Picchu. This trip takes about 30 minutes, and no other vehicles are allowed on this treacherous road. Please note that there is typically a long queue to get on the bus. If traveling with a lap infant, you can skip the line and get in front. It is a perk available at most places in Peru (Yay to new parents).
    • Hike the Inca Trail: With a 8 month old on the lap, we did not even think of this route, but it is an incredible journey, we hear! Many tour companies offer their guided tours for this iconic 3-4 day tour involving hiking, camping, climbing. We were told that it is closed for operations in February though.
    • There are a few other variations of getting to Machu Picchu, such as longer and more adventurous Jungle trail, Choquequirao tour, Salkantay Mountain trek, etc. Some travelers choose to walk down from Machu Picchu on the same road as the bus takes you up. The views, are typically incredible, unless cloud/fog cover.
  5. Early bird catches the worm: Unless you are staying in Aguas Calientes, getting to Machu Picchu before 8am is unlikely. But catching the first train out of Ollyantaytambo can get you to the gate by 8am. Remember to buy the tickets for Machu Picchu accordingly (tickets are allotted in two ranges – morning and afternoon). Getting to Machu Picchu early has its perks –
    • Fewer people: Quite obviously, the earlier you get to the Machu Picchu site, chances are you are going to get nicer snaps without people ‘photobombing’! The bus lines are shorter and the treacherous climbs up and down the uneven stone steps are easier.
    • Weather: The weather so far high up in the mountains can change dramatically, very quickly. Chances of catching the sunny portion of the day is higher earlier in the day
  6. Guided Tour: Getting a guide is highly advisable in the ruins. Unless you already have booked a guided tour, you can hire a guide on site. It was unclear to us prior to reaching Machu Picchu, whether a guide is mandatory. It turns out that you can definitely go in without one, albeit may not get the full picture, literally. Guides can cost about $20-$40 per person, be sure to negotiate as there is ample supply. We got together with another family of two, to get a better deal of $60 for all 4 of us.
  7. Passport: No you are not going to another country; you can stamp your passport at the exit door. Great memorabilia to keep!
  8. Photo Ops: First sight of the incredible Machu Picchu ruins are going to blow your mind, especially if you have seen the iconic photo for a long time. But a travel blogging trade secret is to carry a colorful dress or hat or even a photo prop to capture a photo with Machu Picchu ruins in the background. Peruvian alpaca shawls work wonders, just saying!
  9. Llamas: No, Llamas are not everywhere in Machu Picchu, but about 15 of them can be seen lazing around in the meadows. Do not hesitate to take a picture with them if one gets close to you, as if you do it in Cusco, be prepared to pay the person with the Llama!
  10. Housekeeping: A few mundane, yet crucial things to carry in your bag are –
    • Printed Tickets – No cellphone signal up here, and the ticket agents only accept printed tickets (as of September, 2019)
    • Water bottles – There is a kiosk to buy overpriced water bottles, so better to carry your own
    • Snacks – Dry snacks suitable for any hikes
    • Loose change – Primarily for restroom use. No services within the site. There is one restroom at the entrance that charges about 1 Soles, payable in exact cash/coin
    • Rain gear – Weather is unpredictable up here. So carry a poncho or rain jacket with you; umbrellas are cumbersome when you have to hike up and down uneven stone steps
    • No selfie sticks or tripods – Leave these at home or hotel, these are not allowed within the site

Now that you have everything you need for a memorable Machu Pichu trip, check out what you expect to see and get smarter on the mysticism of the classic Inca civilization here.

Amsterdam

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Remember those canals and the bridges in Venice; there are about 500 bridges there. Amsterdam boasts a mighty 1200 bridges over its looping canal system. Let’s do another fun fact – how many bicycles are there in Amsterdam? Including owned and rental ones, there are close to 0.9 million bicycles for a resident base of 800,000. Have appetite for another one – how many houseboats are there in Amsterdam? 3,500!

Our intent was not to bore you with trivia, rather wanted to underline what a fun city Amsterdam is. From the blissful walks alongside the canals to sinful visits to the coffeeshops and the red-light district, a few days in Amsterdam and the world’s your oyster. It is worth mentioning here, that with its fortification around the city and the canals originally meant as a defense mechanism from floods and invasion, is now a renowned UNESCO World Heritage Site. Find out more on our rendezvous with other UNESCO World Heritage Sites here.

Let’s look at what can we do in a 3-4 day itinerary. Will revisit the fun facts at the bottom of this page.

Canals and Bridges

On your way to the city center from the Schipol airport, you will cross several canals. These canals (we heard that there were 150+ canals) are both heart and armor of the city, serving as one of the best ways to navigate as well as a system to defend against impending flooding. Towards the coast, you will get to see and walk on the famous dykes, but the canals system along with the picturesque bridges around town are a treat to the eyes. Some bridges operate as lock gates that lift up for passing ships. Taking a canal tour with hop on hop off facility is the best way to explore the canals, bridges and exquisite architecture around them. Featured in numerous movies and sets of famous paintings by Monet, the views from the canal cruises will tire your fingers from clicking pictures. Be sure to keep an eye on the tilted houses (aka dancing houses) and the houseboats around the cruise trip.

Museums

Amsterdam was home to a number of famous contemporary artists (e.g. Rembrandt, Vermeer and Van Gogh) as well as historic landmarks. It is no surprise that it boasts quite a few museums varying in their sizes and importance. Listed below are a few (ordered in decreasing priority in our opinion) that you can and should accommodate in your 3-4 day itinerary –

  • Anne Frank House: If you have read the book Anne Frank’s Diary, this museum is going to bring the melancholy memoirs of the little girl during the holocaust. I feel it is a must for every responsible citizen of the world to learn and empathize with DSC_1134the victims of the period of insanity during WWII, and the museum does a good job of taking the visitor through the intricacies of the life of an average Jew through the eyes of Anne Frank.
    • Note that there is often a long wait to get in; so buy the tickets online for a scheduled time. Check hours and buy tickets here.
    • Tickets: Adults €10  |  Hours: 9AM – 7PM or 9AM – 10PM (winters)  |  Suggested Time Spent: 2 Hours
  • Rijksmuseum: Probably the most popular museum in the city, the Dutch national museum, located in the museum quarter (museumplein), hosts art and history from the middle ages to modern times. It features legendary artwork by Rembrandt, Vermeer, Van Gogh, Hals and Jan Steen, along with depiction of art history from around the world. Beyond appreciating the master pieces, we found the depiction of colonial times in Asia and Latin America were provocative and powerful.
    • Note that there is always a long line (wait times can be up to 4 hours) to get in, because of capacity constraints and popularity. So definitely buy the tickets online to save some time here.
    • Tickets: Adults €17.50  |  Hours: 9AM – 7PM |  Suggested Time Spent: 2 – 3 Hours

  • Van Gogh Museum: Located in the museumplein, this hosts the world’s largest collection of paintings by the prominent painter from the impressionism era. The museum does a great job of following the life story of the short lived icon, from his early life in the Netherlands, Paris till the end in southern France. It houses paintings and letters from some of his contemporaries too, making it a holistic experience for an art lover.
    • This is also an extremely crowded museum, so do yourself a favor by buying the tickets in advance here.
    • Tickets: Adults €18  |  Hours: 9AM – 5PM |  Suggested Time Spent: 2 Hours
  • Moco Museum: Last but not the least, located in the same plaza in a 19th century townhouse, this is the museum of modern art. We are not big fans of modern art, but still the collection blew our minds. Our favorite was the Banksy collection of street art.
    • Tickets: Adults €13.50  |  Hours: 9AM – 5PM |  Suggested Time Spent: 1 Hour

  • There are a couple of other museums that we would have loved to sneak in, Stedelijk Museum, Rembrandthuis, and Foam, but need to postpone till the next visit.

Red-light District

As you may have heard, Amsterdam has a fairly open culture with it being neutral to prostitution and drugs. While some of it is hyped up, there are some controlled elements of both in play here. The relatively small district is made up of a bunch of alleys and a section along the canal, where sex shops, live sex theaters and neon lit aisles with scantily clad women market their ‘product’ or ‘service’!Ams XXX Sign

Best time to visit (sorry for being Ms. Obvious), is around 10 p.m. when the area springs back to life. Our top picks in the area (not for the fainthearted, we warn you) –

  • Hit a coffeeshop (Bulldog the First is our pick) for a reefer or a joint (remember to research the difference beforehand lest you are hit with a surprise),
  • Appreciate the windows with red curtains (!) along the alleys in De Wallen, and what’s inside. Don’t ask for pricing details; not our thing. But look out for the blue neon lights that stands out from the ubiquitous red neons. Find out for yourself what that means (this is the surprise element, no judgments)
  • For the more curious, hop into one of the live sex theaters or peep shows. Typically they show all kinds of sex encounters (straight, gay, S&M, bondage, etc.), and note that these are performances only.

Note – Although it is highly controlled, so a fairly safe place to roam around after dark, be cautious for pickpockets. Also, cannot emphasize enough, do not take pictures of the prostitutes on the windows or in the theaters.

Miscellaneous

In a 3-4 day trip going from one site to other within the city, you will be able to experience the city neighborhoods and appreciate their individual charm. While on foot, do hop into the random coffeeshops (for coffee, not canabis all the time) and small restaurants for some local fare. While in museumplein, don’t forget a picture with the I Amsterdam sign (although is full of tourists 24 hours a day!). There are several farmers markets, and festivals during the holidays where you can taste artisan cheese and craft beer to your hearts content. For a beer aficionado, a quick trip to the Heineken museum may be worth it – we are not big fans of big box lager beer, plus is not a working brewery, so skipped it. Instead, go to Albert Cuyp Market during the day and fill up your appetite and thirst alike. You won’t regret it, believe us. For people watching and relaxing, our favorite has been the Rembrandt Square.

Slightly underrated is the history of diamond in the city. The quest for diamond in Congo by King Leopold of Belgium is well known, but back in the days, the Dutch excelled in mining and marketing diamond jewelry too. A quick visit to the Gassan Diamond Tour may be worthwhile, but can seem monotonous and a sales trick to some. We wouldn’t advise buying from their shop inside due to lack of assurance of quality, even though it may appear cheaper.

Tips and Tricks to Navigate the City

  • Hopefully you plan to visit the famous museums in the city; if that is so, buy the Amsterdam city pass. It will save you some money but more importantly, TIME.
  • Try to avoid uber/taxis whenever possible as the routes may seem short but will take a long time due to traffic and narrow roadways. Try walking or renting a bike whenever possible. Taking the canal taxis can also be helpful depending on weather.
  • We are foodie travelers, but apart from craft beer, cheese and canabis, there is not much to blow your mind. But while you are here, definitely try a loaded Stroopwafel and a Dutch favorite Rookworst.
  • By the North Sea, the summers can be chilly sometimes, so pack a light jacket. It also apparently rains intermittently all year. May be buy an umbrella with the XXX sign 🙂

 

Vatican City

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The smallest country in the world with less than a square kilometer in area, having its own police force, army and diplomatic corps, Vatican City sits as an island within the Rome city limits separated by a wall. The state was established in the middle ages, and was obliterated in the 19th century under the Italian state, but was finally re-established in 1929 in lieu of the Lateran Treaty between the Italian state and the Holy See.

Suggested Time Spent: 5 Hours     |     Admission: €40.00+ for Adults   |    Hours: Varies (Check details here)

Roaming around the St. Peter’s Basilica you will spot guards in their fancy dresses; theyVatican Swiss Guards are the Swiss Guards. Originally founded in the 16th century by Julius II for Pope’s personal security, their evocative uniforms designed by Michaelangelo himself has remained the same for five centuries.

Top things to see

As you enter through the doors of the Vatican, you will be guided through the museums and the gardens, eventually making way to the St. Peter’s square. While you can roam around as much as you want, it is difficult to come back to Sistine Chapel without a tour group, so take your time while there. We list out some of the key attractions –

St. Peter’s Basilica 

Possibly the most iconic of the buildings, the dome visible from afar, St. Peter’s Basilica sits at the top of the St. Peter’s square. This is where the heart of Christianity has resided for two thousand years. Constantine, converted to Christianity, built a basilica at the spot where St. Peter was martyred. First residence of the Bishop was also built here in the 500’s. Over time this grew in size, and use of the basilica has evolved. Many famous artists including Raphael, Michaelangelo, Bramante and Carlo Maderno were commissioned to enhance the beauty and dominant structures.

It was in 1600’s when Bernini built the huge piazza (see below) and the current intricate facade of the Basilica. Top of the dome, commissioned by Michaelangelo is accessible by 500 steps. At the top of the facade, there are equestrian statues of Constantine , first Christian Emperor and first Emperor of the Holy Roman Empire. There are five entrances to the Basilica, each with its own flamboyant artistry.

Feel free to ditch the tour group as you enter the majestic Basilica, the biggest Christian Church, and your jaw drops admiring the incredible detail and peaceful vastness. Pieta by Michaelangelo and the Statue of St. Peter are remarkable. You won’t miss the gigantic Baroque structure in bronze, Baldachin by Bernini. Under this structure is the Tomb of St. Peter.

Piazza San Pietro

An elliptical area harmoniously open to the heavens and an obelisk with the True Cross at its peak reaching up to the heavens, St. Peter’s Square has been the center of Christianity for centuries. Featured in many popular movies, this piazza is flocked by tourists all the time. This is where the papal audience swarms in and the faithful cheer on during the pope election process.

On the perimeter, you will find astonishing colonnades by Bernini with 284 Doric pillars and 140 statues set in perfect harmony. There are two remarkable fountains as well on either side of the obelisk. From the end of the piazza, the triangular roof of the Sistine Chapel along with the famous chimney is also visible.

Sistine Chapel

Our first glimpse of the inside of the Sistine Chapel was a mixed bag of awe for the number of masterpieces all around, and the smaller than expected size of it. From the novels and movies, it appeared larger; but in no means the grandeur of the artwork alone dumbstruck us. About 40 meters long, 20 meters high and 13 meters wide, it was built in the 15th century sort of imitating Noah’s Ark. Frescoes in the walls contain scenes from Life of Moses to Life of Jesus by Botticelli, Signorelli, Perugino and

Pinturicchio. The greatest masterpieces though are in the ceiling – by Michelangelo between 1508 and 1512. The gigantic biblical scenes, executed by the artist alone, including a variety of poses ranging from the Creation and Original Sin to Redemption. The most iconic is the Creation of Adam where the divine finger is almost touching the first man. The other significant work worth mentioning here is the Last Judgement in the wall made up of 390 naked yet uniquely posing figures surrounding the Christ and the Judge.

Vatican Museums

On and around the Basilica, you will walk through different halls within the Vatican Museum. The intricate artwork and vivid paintings in the hallways and staircases will overwhelm you in minutes. I tried taking notes, but could not keep pace. From what I could recall, over time, the Vatican museums have accumulated so much worth of antiquities, from Egyptian and medieval tapestries to Renaissance paintings, that it is humanely impossible to admire in one go. See below some pictures, though admittedly they do not do justice.

The Gallery of Maps on your way to the Raphael rooms is one of our favorites. It boasts topographical maps of the Italian peninsula from a 16th century perspective. If looked at carefully, you will find intricate historical evidence (e.g. Malta being part of Italy) and that history is written by winners. The vaulted ceilings, however, with its vibrant colors steal the thunder easily.

Before entering the Raphael rooms through the narrow corridor, look out of the balcony to the Belvedere Courtyard which was home to Pope Julius II. But surprise! Its a parking lot now, and looking at those fancy Alpha Romeos will suddenly bring you back to reality from appreciating the splendor inside. But keep walking to the incredible Raphael Rooms where 16th century renaissance masterclasses by Raphael are embellished on the vaulted ceilings and the walls. I would list down the paintings here, but it is a rather long and arduous task which I’d like to refrain from lest the reader loses interest.

Tips

  • More than 15,000 people on average visit Vatican city every day! So expect things to get a bit crowded.
  • Because of the same reason above, there is a queue every day at the entrance to the Vatican Museums. The wait times can be up to 5 hours at its worst. So, definitely buy the tickets online.
  • Even with a ‘skip the line’ kind of ticket, the tour groups in a guided tour are not small, and in the crowd it becomes difficult to follow. Instead be an early bird and get there before 7:30 a.m. Foot traffic is a lot less at that hour, and will give you a bit more breathing space to enjoy the masterpieces.
  • The tours, for whatever reason, is extremely hurried. You hardly get a chance to appreciate the splendor.
  • Remember, the tickets are one time use only but gives you access to all the museums inside. Take your time and plan ahead to spend up to 5 hours inside.
  • Dress Code – The Vatican has a fairly strict dress code. Cover your shoulders (no off-shoulder or halter neck tops/dresses) and knees (no shorts, hot pants and short skirts/dresses). Because Rome gets pretty hot during the summer months, bring a shrug or light scarf to cover the bare skin while you are inside. Also, hats and food are not allowed.
  • Passport/Visa – Remember this is a different country, so carrying your passport is advisable, although we never had to show it. Visa is not required if you are in the Schengen area, and no, you won’t get your passport stamped in Vatican ;-).
  • Photography – While it is generally okay to take as many photos as you want, it is absolutely not allowed in the Sistine Chapel. Do not try, guards are watching punctiliously.  Instead, stay quiet and look up to admire the Michaelangelo’s.

Pantheon

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Sitting in the central parts of the city, this iconic structure has held its own for more than two millenniums. Built a few years before Christ was born in honor of Augustus, Pantheon is one of the very few structures retaining its antiquity. Historians attribute the preservation to the fact that Pantheon has continually being used for multiple purposes over the years.

Suggested Time Spent: 1 Hour     |     Admission: Free   |    Hours: 9AM – 6PM

It went from being a memorabilia to a church to being a political hub after the medieval ages. Structurally, the round plan, a cylindrical wall supporting the dome is common to Roman architecture. But the dome, 43 meters high and same width, was an engineering feat at that time. This vault is bigger than St. Peter’s, and is probably the largest built in that time. The only source of light into the vault, the 9 meters wide hole at the top of the dome, illuminates the facade in dreamy light.

Multi colored marbles in the two stories in the inside walls create an interplay of colors in mysterious light and shadows. Including the aforesaid purposes, Pantheon also holds tombs of famous artists, e.g. Raphael, and members of Savoy family and emperors.

Outside, the wide columns are large enough that it takes four adults to measure the circumference by holding each others’ hands. The 6 meters tall obelisk, Macuteo, and the fountain sits in the square in front of the Pantheon.

Tips

  • The shops and restaurants around the Pantheon are infamous tourist traps. Although it may be convenient to pick up souvenirs, it is not advisable to have a full meal in the nearby restaurants; sub-par quality yet pricey.
  • Walk to the nearby Church of Maria Sopra Minerva, almost next door to the back of the Pantheon. On your way there, you can spot the back side of Pantheon to appreciate the founding blocks of the structure. Admire one of the best obelisks (out of a total of thirteen in Rome), designed by Bernini, where an elephant is carrying the obelisk.

Roman Forum

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Ever experienced the mystic romance of walking down ancient streets while admiring grandiose facades of 2000 year old buildings? If not, a stroll down the alleys in Roman Forum (Fora Romano) is tailor-made for you. From the remnants of the ancient buildings, visualize an established society with its courthouses, market place and religious hubs with the Colosseum in the backdrop.

Suggested Time Spent: 2-3 Hours     |     Admission: € 12 for Adults   |    Hours: 9AM – 7PM

As your journey to probably the oldest ruins in the city, begin walking west from Forum of Nerva on via dei Fori Imperialli. Looking east, you should be able to see a portion of the Colosseum. Even before you enter the Roman Forum, try taking a walk along the street with your view of the Foro di Nerva to the right. Walk straight up west towards the Campidoglio.

It is apt that diving into the ancient stories begin from the solemn Capitol, the acropolis of the ancient Rome. Up the stairs from the street level, you will enter the Piazza di Michaelangelo and a view of the equestrian statue of Emperor Marcus Aurelius. The capitol building was actually used as a prison in the middle ages, but in 1500’s, Pope Paull III commissioned Michaelangelo to build the structure. Three palaces with very identical facades around the piazza (Palazzo Senatario, Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori mark the boundaries. Be sure to check out the balustrades with statues placed over the cornices all around.

Walk to the left of the twin statues (8 o’clock from the statue of Marcus Aurelis), for a view of the Roman forum from a higher vantage point in the Palatine Hill. From here you can see most of the major spots within and outside the Roman Forum including the Temple of Saturn, Foro di Cesar, Septimius Severus arch, etc. Numerous photos later, trace back the path to the street level and walk back to the entrance of Roman Forum.

Roman Forum

This was the center of ancient Rome; it was the hub of political, commercial and religious activities back then. Take a right after entering the forum, and walk to the archaic black stone (Lapis Niger), the arch of Settimus Severius (built 203 A.D.). Like many others built in this era, this arch was to commemorate his win in the Parthians war. Check out the details in the outer flanks of the arch, possibly some narrative of the victorious but the artistry is phenomenal. Towards the foot of the capitoline hills, the remains of the Temple of Saturn stand upright. It was used to keep public treasury.

Looking away from the arch of Settimus Severius, on the left sits the most important building of that time, the Curia or the senate. It was the political center of ancient Rome. Next to the Curia, is the oldest Basilica (Basilica Emilia) of which only a few relics remain. From the arch, walk south towards the Temple of Antonius and Faustina which is one of the most preserved buildings. This was built in 141 A.D. in memory of Antonius’ wife, is now converted to a church. Placed on a high podium, the facade and the bronze door is one of the key marvels in the Roman Forum.

On the right you will find the remaining three columns of the Temple of Castor and Pollux. It was erected to commemorate the twin brothers’ key contributions in defeating the Etruscans and Latins. At the south end of the forum, closest to the Colosseum, you will find the simpler but elegant Arch of Titus, built in 81 A.D. Look underneath the arch for splendid relief showing the processing of bringing the spoils from Jerusalem.

Tips

  • Although not as busy as the Colosseum, it is better to buy tickets online (combo of Roman Forum and Colosseum) to save time. There are discounted tickets and free entrance on the first Sunday of a month. Check out the details here.
  • Guided tours are available, and are recommended as there are virtually no signage, especially in English. Smartphone apps like eTips can also be handy. We did not take a guide but followed the smartphone app guide; much cheaper but obviously not as entertaining as a human guide.
  • Take time to learn a little bit about the forum and its buildings lest it becomes boring to walk around the ruins.
  • If you are using a smartphone map, use the bolded location names in this page to navigate easily from point to point.

Spanish Steps in Piazza di Spagna

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Remember Gregory Peck and Audrey Hepburn walking down the long set of steps with a Church with twin towers in Roman Holiday from the black and white cinema era? Those are the Spanish Steps. From the vantage point on Piazza di Spagna, a remarkable Church, sets of steps and a fountain creates the beautiful facade. A number of other famous work in pop culture including music videos and movies have been set with the iconic steps in the background.

The unusual boat shaped fountain (17th century) at the bottom of the steps, designed by Pietro Bernini, the father of the more famous Gian Lorenzo Bernini, sits in the middle of Piazza di Spagna. Looking up, the double domed Church, named Trinita dei Monti, houses many chapels dedicated to famous noble families. In order to connect the Bourbon Spanish embassy and the Trinita dei Monti in the higher level with the Holy See in Palazzo Monaldeschi at the Piazza di Spagna level, the unique steps were built by architect Francesco De Santis. A wonderful Baroque creation, it has a set of ramps with equal number of steps in each.

From the top of the steps, you can get a picturesque view of the square below with the characteristically similar buildings on either sides of the narrow alleys. On any given evening, while the warm glow of the setting sun adorn the top of the Church, finding a place to sit on the stairs could be a challenge.

Tips

  • For best photo opportunities of this marvel, plan to arrive early in the morning or late in the night.
  • Due to the large number of tourists here, pickpockets and petty thieves swarm this area. Be careful to not pay attention to your belongings while you admire the marvels through your eyes and the lens.
  • Before getting to sit on the steps with your group or by yourself, do not forget to get a coffee from the 18th century coffee-shop Caffe Greco.
  • Stop to admire the street performers playing a classic tune in their violins and flutes. Don’t forget to tip.
  • Last but not the least, if you are a fan, feel free to check out the designer shops in the area. Most recognizable names in the upscale fashion industry have a footprint here.

Rome: A Historical Perspective

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“Rome wasn’t built in a day”. Literally!  If you browse through thousands of Roman history books and a vast ocean of documented literature, you will find a city that went through ups and downs, a society that saw more change than any other comparable one, empires and republics reaching their zeniths only to be drawn to ashes. Strolls around the modern metropolis of Rome would paint the same picture. To the more inspired, you can hear hoofs of Cesar’s horses on cobblestone roads, or clanging of swords in the Colosseum, or whispers of common folk in the Roman Forum.

Early Days

Legend has it, that the twin brothers Romulus and Remus, raised by a she-wolf founded

Romulus

Romulus and Remus, raised by a she-wolf

the city. Documented history of the city goes back about three thousand years to 750 B.C. when it was governed by seven kings. Kingdoms by Romans, Sabines and their struggle with the outsider Etruscans, followed by a Republican Rome established the foundation of the Roman empire. After Julius Cesar’s influential yet controversial reign in the 100’s B.C., Augustus, the emperor took reign of the empire and it grew substantially. Art, culture, military and societal prowess helped Rome become the ominous superpower in the entire Western world. Rome saw a steep decline during the first half of the first millennium due primarily to spread of Christianity and ignoble emperors like Nero, Caligula, Claudius. A weakened Rome saw barbarian attacks, mainly by Attila the Hun, and rise of the Byzantine empire.

Walk through history

Although somewhat isolated, the ruins in the center of the city, especially in Roman Forum, contains some of the key artifacts that helps to revisit the old days. From sixth century B.C. to the Byzantine age, the lives of the Romans including political, cultural and social centers of ancient Rome are depicted here. Due to absence of any signage or relevant narration, it is close to impossible for a casual tourist to fathom the significance of the ruins. From what is left of the temples of Saturn, Vesta, Antinius and Faustina, in Roman Forum, and others (especially Imperial Forum, Forum of Augustus and Forum of Caesar), if coupled with appropriate historical anecdotes, one could reconstruct the historical timelines with relative ease.

Arches, that are signatures of Roman architecture primarily erected to celebrate major victories, were built during this time. Arches of Constantine (next to the Colosseum), Settimus Severius (in Roman Forum) and Arch of Titus (in the Imperial Forum) are some of the most remarkable ones. Read about the above here.

 

Medieval Times

Establishing Christianity as the only religion of the country, in the Constantine era, united the country, albeit conceding some of the ruling powers to the papacy. It became the ‘Holy Roman Empire’ under the pope-installed emperor Charlemagne in the 800’s A.D. Following 500 years saw a ceaseless struggle between the papacy and feudal nobles. It was during these years, that Roman art and architecture reached their pinnacles, albeit driven by political agenda. Pristine artistry by Michaelangelo, Bernini, Raphael and Cellini still inspire awe; but the underlying propaganda to establish Church’s dominance shows the depth of the power struggle during the protestant revolution.

Walk through history

Politically treacherous times and multiple barbarian invasions, likely would have hindered construction of significant monuments during the early years of the middle ages. Rise of Christianity influenced establishment of churches and cathedrals like Trinita dei Monti (above the renowned Spanish Steps). The Capitol was also established during this time, although the main square (Square of Michaelangelo) was built much later. The Piazza’s built during the ancient times, also saw some change with Churches, Fountains and Obelisks being put in to commemorate victories or events. Each of the Piazzas (e.g. Piazza Navona, Piazza del Popolo, Piazza di Spagna, Piazza Venezia) have their own history and significance beyond their picturesque facade. But among all the sites, Pantheon, due to its usage over the ages, holds its antiquity and is probably the most important. It holds history of old pagans, translated into a church and holds plethora of tombs.

Modern Times

Modern times beginning in the eighteenth century saw the rise of the state again with Fascism taking over in the early 20th century. Establishment of the Vatican City, a walled sovereign country within the city boundaries of Rome, in 1929 through the Lateran treaty, ended the cold war between the papacy and the state. Post World War II saw mastery of Italian art take shape of cinema, the age of “La Dolce Vitta” by Fellini.

Modern day Roma is a progressive metropolis with inhabitants from all around the globe with a juxtaposition of cultures and modern amenities. On one hand, Vatican City displays the jewels of renaissance art work at the helm of Christianity, and on the other hand you can find niche designer brands like Gucci, Ferregamo and like in the Piazza de Spagna next to the Spanish steps.

Even in the modern day, the influence of the city cannot be ignored, be it from the center of the Roman Empire, to the architectural ingenuity, and being the bedrock of Christianity. As described elsewhere in this website, no matter whether you are a history buff or a casual explorer, take time to walk the ruins and understand the relevance. Your high-school history lessons on Roman history will not appear as unremarkable as it did before. Enjoy your Roman holiday!

Colosseum

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Back to Rome

As documented and indicated by ancient authors, was the Colosseum in Rome indeed a ‘death trap’? Did the ancient Romans construct an elaborate amphitheater to quench their blood thirst? An enormous structure in the center of the city holding 80,000 people really witnessed fights between humans and exotic animals? Or is it just Hollywood effects, depicted in the famous movie Gladiator? Now a popular tourist destination, we entered to experience the mythical structure and find our own clues to demystify some of the historical anecdotes.

Suggested Time Spent: 2-3 Hours     |     Admission: € 12 for Adults   |    Hours: 9AM – 7PM (More information here)

History Lesson

Before we jump into deciphering the mysteries, let’s paint the picture from the structural perspectives. A large amphitheater constructed by the Flavian dynasty (Vespasian, Titus and Dominitan) around 70-80 A.D., on land acquired by Nero after the Great Fire of Rome in 64 A.D. It is believed that it was financed by the spoils of the Jewish Temple in Jerusalem. While there are variations in opinions from historians, the arena (larger than two American Football fields) was used for staging Gladiator fights, animal fights, drama, and believe it or not, naval battles. Some artifacts suggest crucifixions, courthouse and public executions were also part of the usage.

Over the ages, through medieval and modern times, there have been evidences of this being used as a cemetery, church, even bull fight arena under various rulers. But even after deep dive investigations of the ruins, underground tunnel networks, re-engineered capstones by forensic scientists, archaeologists and engineers around the world, instances of blood-baths have not been proven as such. Most evidences of Gladiatorial fights with wild beasts and fights till death are merely anecdotal till date.

Architecture

The columns and arches found in the Colosseum are signature Roman architecture along with underground tunnel network that show Greek influence. A perfect elliptical shape (188m x 150m) contrary to much easier circular construction  is proof of engineering ingenuity of that time. 80 arches, three tiers to hold up to 80,000 spectators, 8 entrances and an exterior covered by travertine points to the design and planning repertoire of the ancient Romans. The design of a two story basement or hypogeum (now visible clearly from all levels inside) to hold Gladiators and animals along with the tunnels to transport water, food and the participants from outside the arena can compete even with modern day architectural feats.

Things to know before you go

  • Like most of the other Roman sites, Colosseum does not have good signage and detailed history inside it. Consider revving up your history lessons from this blog or elsewhere in order to make your trip remarkable.
    • There are smartphone apps (e.g. eTips) that have good commentary on Colosseum, that you can use as a companion.
    • Guided tours are available, but since the place can get extremely crowded, it is hard to follow along. We do not recommend it.
  • In summer, thousands of tourists flock this site, so long lines are inevitable. Consider buying  a ticket online.
    • Better yet, buy the combo ticket from Roman Forum (Fora Romano) across the street. Lines in Colosseum are much longer than at Roman Forum. Check updates on hours and tickets from the official site here.
  • The Colosseum has several steep steps to get to the audience levels three stories up. But it is surprisingly accessible by an elevator for elderly or disabled.

Want to learn more on whether Colosseum was indeed a killing machine? Check out these articles/blogs (NYTimes, BBC Story) and YouTube documentaries (Ancient History, Gladiator Story) before you go. But regardless of your thought process, enjoy the grandeur and significance of this ancient engineering marvel while you are there.

Please leave a comment or ask questions if you are interested to learn more.

 

Brief history of Hawaii

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Back to Hawaii

Brief History of the Islands

Hidden in the myths and legends of the indigenous folk, is a bloody and war torn history that dates back hundreds of years. First sign of men coming to the islands was in the fifth century when Polynesians arrived accidentally in their canoes. In the early part of the second millennium, Tahitians arrived with their Gods and demi-Gods, and instituted social structures. Division of land, social divides, and early professions started under the rule of a Monarch. The Kingdoms and the casts were in constant conflicts, yet the culture flourished with art, sport, and food. Even though cultural aspects started booming, none could actually mature into a major cultural menhir probably because of the absence of external influence and presence of constant internal turmoil.

Hawaiian islands changed hands several times during the royal kingdom reign and stayed divided. In late 1700’s, king Kamehameha united the islands and unified the tribes. After Capt. James Cook discovered the islands, constant inflow of traders, seamen and whalers changed the face of the islands and it started becoming westernized. Colonists slowly started taking over and the local free men were put under dominance. In 20th century, agriculture flourished with plantations of sugarcane, coffee and pineapple. Founder of a now famous juice company, James Dole put a spotlight on the islands after he started a massive production of fresh fruits and juices.

Hawaiian islands became an American territory and US started using the port of Pearl Harbor as one of the mainstays of Pacific dominance. The islands were on the spotlights again after an unfortunate set of attacks by the Japanese in WWII. After the unfolding of the war and a changed political landscape, Hawaii became the 50th state of the United States in 1959. The ethnicity, culture, and diversity of the islands still carries the untold stories of the islands from a historical and political perspective.

So why does the Hawaiian flag have a Union Jack in it?

In late 1700’s, Great Britain presented the Union Jack to the King Kamehameha to unite the islands and offered help. From then on the monarchy and political landscape changed significantly. But even after its independence and being included in the United States, it retained the Union Jack as a portion of the state flag to corroborate the historical significance.