Tag: Heritage

Things to know before going to Machu Picchu

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Okay, so you want to go see the lost Inca city up in the mountains? Unlike many other mystical sites around the world, it is not an easy one to get to or even plan for. Thankfully, travel bloggers over the internet has made it an easier job, but one needs to spend a lot of time trying to figure out the steps to ensure their trip to Machu Picchu is worry free.

  • Peru Rail Expedition
  • Urubamba River view from Train ride
  • Town of Aguas Calientes
  • View of the Urubamba Valley
  • Llamas in Machu Picchu
  • Peru Rail Vistadome

Since going to Machu Picchu does require planning well in advance, follow these simple but crucial steps below to ensure your trip to Machu Picchu is all set.

  1. Plan Early: A trip to Machu Picchu is like no other destinations. Due to restrictions (mostly due to sustainability and conservation) on visitors to the site and extremely high demand, we strongly recommend planning and booking the trip at least 3 months in advance. Peak season is June-August, so it is even harder to get bookings.
    • If you are planning to hike the famous Inca Trail, spots get filled even earlier.
  2. Stay in Sacred Valley: Although many tourists make Cusco their ‘base camp’, we found it more rational to go straight to Sacred Valley for a couple of reasons –
    • Distance: It is closer to Machu Picchu (~2 hours less train ride) than from Cusco
    • Altitude: Sacred valley is at a lower elevation than Cusco (3,399 meters), so getting acclimatized to altitude is easier this way
  3. Tickets to Machu Picchu: Even before worrying about transportation to Machu Picchu, book tickets to Machu Picchu site. (Check availability here). There are three different options:
    • Machu Picchu Mountains + Machu Picchu Site – Machu Picchu mountains are located above the site and takes a bit longer to hike, but less strenous than Huyana Picchu. Tourists opt for this if Huyana Picchu tickets are not available.
    • Huyana Picchu Mountains + Machu Picchu Site – Climbing up the steep slopes of Huyana Picchu, albeit worth the hike, is a strenous one. It takes about 2 hours to climb. Need tickets 4 months in advance (in peak season, even this may be too late)
    • Machu Picchu site only – Need at least 3-4 hours to soak in the experience. Tickets are NOT sold at the gate, and must be booked at least 3 days in advance.
  4. Transportation to Machu Picchu: Machu Picchu is located at a remote location, with the closest town being Aguas Calientes. Below are the two options to get to Machu Picchu:
    • Public Transport: A train – bus combination is the easiest –
      • Sacred Valley/Cusco to Aguas Calientes: Two train operators (Peru Rail and Inka Rail) operate trains between these two locations, with very similar service offerings. We took the Peru Rail Expedition train from Ollyantaytambo station at 6 am. It takes about 2 hours to get to Aguas Calientes.
      • Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu: From the station in Aguas Calientes, you will need to walk about 5 minutes, cross the river bridge into the town of Aguas Calientes. Buses leave from there every 10 minutes taking tourists up a spiral road to Machu Picchu. This trip takes about 30 minutes, and no other vehicles are allowed on this treacherous road. Please note that there is typically a long queue to get on the bus. If traveling with a lap infant, you can skip the line and get in front. It is a perk available at most places in Peru (Yay to new parents).
    • Hike the Inca Trail: With a 8 month old on the lap, we did not even think of this route, but it is an incredible journey, we hear! Many tour companies offer their guided tours for this iconic 3-4 day tour involving hiking, camping, climbing. We were told that it is closed for operations in February though.
    • There are a few other variations of getting to Machu Picchu, such as longer and more adventurous Jungle trail, Choquequirao tour, Salkantay Mountain trek, etc. Some travelers choose to walk down from Machu Picchu on the same road as the bus takes you up. The views, are typically incredible, unless cloud/fog cover.
  5. Early bird catches the worm: Unless you are staying in Aguas Calientes, getting to Machu Picchu before 8am is unlikely. But catching the first train out of Ollyantaytambo can get you to the gate by 8am. Remember to buy the tickets for Machu Picchu accordingly (tickets are allotted in two ranges – morning and afternoon). Getting to Machu Picchu early has its perks –
    • Fewer people: Quite obviously, the earlier you get to the Machu Picchu site, chances are you are going to get nicer snaps without people ‘photobombing’! The bus lines are shorter and the treacherous climbs up and down the uneven stone steps are easier.
    • Weather: The weather so far high up in the mountains can change dramatically, very quickly. Chances of catching the sunny portion of the day is higher earlier in the day
  6. Guided Tour: Getting a guide is highly advisable in the ruins. Unless you already have booked a guided tour, you can hire a guide on site. It was unclear to us prior to reaching Machu Picchu, whether a guide is mandatory. It turns out that you can definitely go in without one, albeit may not get the full picture, literally. Guides can cost about $20-$40 per person, be sure to negotiate as there is ample supply. We got together with another family of two, to get a better deal of $60 for all 4 of us.
  7. Passport: No you are not going to another country; you can stamp your passport at the exit door. Great memorabilia to keep!
  8. Photo Ops: First sight of the incredible Machu Picchu ruins are going to blow your mind, especially if you have seen the iconic photo for a long time. But a travel blogging trade secret is to carry a colorful dress or hat or even a photo prop to capture a photo with Machu Picchu ruins in the background. Peruvian alpaca shawls work wonders, just saying!
  9. Llamas: No, Llamas are not everywhere in Machu Picchu, but about 15 of them can be seen lazing around in the meadows. Do not hesitate to take a picture with them if one gets close to you, as if you do it in Cusco, be prepared to pay the person with the Llama!
  10. Housekeeping: A few mundane, yet crucial things to carry in your bag are –
    • Printed Tickets – No cellphone signal up here, and the ticket agents only accept printed tickets (as of September, 2019)
    • Water bottles – There is a kiosk to buy overpriced water bottles, so better to carry your own
    • Snacks – Dry snacks suitable for any hikes
    • Loose change – Primarily for restroom use. No services within the site. There is one restroom at the entrance that charges about 1 Soles, payable in exact cash/coin
    • Rain gear – Weather is unpredictable up here. So carry a poncho or rain jacket with you; umbrellas are cumbersome when you have to hike up and down uneven stone steps
    • No selfie sticks or tripods – Leave these at home or hotel, these are not allowed within the site

Now that you have everything you need for a memorable Machu Pichu trip, check out what you expect to see and get smarter on the mysticism of the classic Inca civilization here.

Amsterdam

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Back to The Netherlands

Remember those canals and the bridges in Venice; there are about 500 bridges there. Amsterdam boasts a mighty 1200 bridges over its looping canal system. Let’s do another fun fact – how many bicycles are there in Amsterdam? Including owned and rental ones, there are close to 0.9 million bicycles for a resident base of 800,000. Have appetite for another one – how many houseboats are there in Amsterdam? 3,500!

Our intent was not to bore you with trivia, rather wanted to underline what a fun city Amsterdam is. From the blissful walks alongside the canals to sinful visits to the coffeeshops and the red-light district, a few days in Amsterdam and the world’s your oyster. It is worth mentioning here, that with its fortification around the city and the canals originally meant as a defense mechanism from floods and invasion, is now a renowned UNESCO World Heritage Site. Find out more on our rendezvous with other UNESCO World Heritage Sites here.

Let’s look at what can we do in a 3-4 day itinerary. Will revisit the fun facts at the bottom of this page.

Canals and Bridges

On your way to the city center from the Schipol airport, you will cross several canals. These canals (we heard that there were 150+ canals) are both heart and armor of the city, serving as one of the best ways to navigate as well as a system to defend against impending flooding. Towards the coast, you will get to see and walk on the famous dykes, but the canals system along with the picturesque bridges around town are a treat to the eyes. Some bridges operate as lock gates that lift up for passing ships. Taking a canal tour with hop on hop off facility is the best way to explore the canals, bridges and exquisite architecture around them. Featured in numerous movies and sets of famous paintings by Monet, the views from the canal cruises will tire your fingers from clicking pictures. Be sure to keep an eye on the tilted houses (aka dancing houses) and the houseboats around the cruise trip.

Museums

Amsterdam was home to a number of famous contemporary artists (e.g. Rembrandt, Vermeer and Van Gogh) as well as historic landmarks. It is no surprise that it boasts quite a few museums varying in their sizes and importance. Listed below are a few (ordered in decreasing priority in our opinion) that you can and should accommodate in your 3-4 day itinerary –

  • Anne Frank House: If you have read the book Anne Frank’s Diary, this museum is going to bring the melancholy memoirs of the little girl during the holocaust. I feel it is a must for every responsible citizen of the world to learn and empathize with DSC_1134the victims of the period of insanity during WWII, and the museum does a good job of taking the visitor through the intricacies of the life of an average Jew through the eyes of Anne Frank.
    • Note that there is often a long wait to get in; so buy the tickets online for a scheduled time. Check hours and buy tickets here.
    • Tickets: Adults €10  |  Hours: 9AM – 7PM or 9AM – 10PM (winters)  |  Suggested Time Spent: 2 Hours
  • Rijksmuseum: Probably the most popular museum in the city, the Dutch national museum, located in the museum quarter (museumplein), hosts art and history from the middle ages to modern times. It features legendary artwork by Rembrandt, Vermeer, Van Gogh, Hals and Jan Steen, along with depiction of art history from around the world. Beyond appreciating the master pieces, we found the depiction of colonial times in Asia and Latin America were provocative and powerful.
    • Note that there is always a long line (wait times can be up to 4 hours) to get in, because of capacity constraints and popularity. So definitely buy the tickets online to save some time here.
    • Tickets: Adults €17.50  |  Hours: 9AM – 7PM |  Suggested Time Spent: 2 – 3 Hours

  • Van Gogh Museum: Located in the museumplein, this hosts the world’s largest collection of paintings by the prominent painter from the impressionism era. The museum does a great job of following the life story of the short lived icon, from his early life in the Netherlands, Paris till the end in southern France. It houses paintings and letters from some of his contemporaries too, making it a holistic experience for an art lover.
    • This is also an extremely crowded museum, so do yourself a favor by buying the tickets in advance here.
    • Tickets: Adults €18  |  Hours: 9AM – 5PM |  Suggested Time Spent: 2 Hours
  • Moco Museum: Last but not the least, located in the same plaza in a 19th century townhouse, this is the museum of modern art. We are not big fans of modern art, but still the collection blew our minds. Our favorite was the Banksy collection of street art.
    • Tickets: Adults €13.50  |  Hours: 9AM – 5PM |  Suggested Time Spent: 1 Hour

  • There are a couple of other museums that we would have loved to sneak in, Stedelijk Museum, Rembrandthuis, and Foam, but need to postpone till the next visit.

Red-light District

As you may have heard, Amsterdam has a fairly open culture with it being neutral to prostitution and drugs. While some of it is hyped up, there are some controlled elements of both in play here. The relatively small district is made up of a bunch of alleys and a section along the canal, where sex shops, live sex theaters and neon lit aisles with scantily clad women market their ‘product’ or ‘service’!Ams XXX Sign

Best time to visit (sorry for being Ms. Obvious), is around 10 p.m. when the area springs back to life. Our top picks in the area (not for the fainthearted, we warn you) –

  • Hit a coffeeshop (Bulldog the First is our pick) for a reefer or a joint (remember to research the difference beforehand lest you are hit with a surprise),
  • Appreciate the windows with red curtains (!) along the alleys in De Wallen, and what’s inside. Don’t ask for pricing details; not our thing. But look out for the blue neon lights that stands out from the ubiquitous red neons. Find out for yourself what that means (this is the surprise element, no judgments)
  • For the more curious, hop into one of the live sex theaters or peep shows. Typically they show all kinds of sex encounters (straight, gay, S&M, bondage, etc.), and note that these are performances only.

Note – Although it is highly controlled, so a fairly safe place to roam around after dark, be cautious for pickpockets. Also, cannot emphasize enough, do not take pictures of the prostitutes on the windows or in the theaters.

Miscellaneous

In a 3-4 day trip going from one site to other within the city, you will be able to experience the city neighborhoods and appreciate their individual charm. While on foot, do hop into the random coffeeshops (for coffee, not canabis all the time) and small restaurants for some local fare. While in museumplein, don’t forget a picture with the I Amsterdam sign (although is full of tourists 24 hours a day!). There are several farmers markets, and festivals during the holidays where you can taste artisan cheese and craft beer to your hearts content. For a beer aficionado, a quick trip to the Heineken museum may be worth it – we are not big fans of big box lager beer, plus is not a working brewery, so skipped it. Instead, go to Albert Cuyp Market during the day and fill up your appetite and thirst alike. You won’t regret it, believe us. For people watching and relaxing, our favorite has been the Rembrandt Square.

Slightly underrated is the history of diamond in the city. The quest for diamond in Congo by King Leopold of Belgium is well known, but back in the days, the Dutch excelled in mining and marketing diamond jewelry too. A quick visit to the Gassan Diamond Tour may be worthwhile, but can seem monotonous and a sales trick to some. We wouldn’t advise buying from their shop inside due to lack of assurance of quality, even though it may appear cheaper.

Tips and Tricks to Navigate the City

  • Hopefully you plan to visit the famous museums in the city; if that is so, buy the Amsterdam city pass. It will save you some money but more importantly, TIME.
  • Try to avoid uber/taxis whenever possible as the routes may seem short but will take a long time due to traffic and narrow roadways. Try walking or renting a bike whenever possible. Taking the canal taxis can also be helpful depending on weather.
  • We are foodie travelers, but apart from craft beer, cheese and canabis, there is not much to blow your mind. But while you are here, definitely try a loaded Stroopwafel and a Dutch favorite Rookworst.
  • By the North Sea, the summers can be chilly sometimes, so pack a light jacket. It also apparently rains intermittently all year. May be buy an umbrella with the XXX sign 🙂

 

Colosseum

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Back to Rome

As documented and indicated by ancient authors, was the Colosseum in Rome indeed a ‘death trap’? Did the ancient Romans construct an elaborate amphitheater to quench their blood thirst? An enormous structure in the center of the city holding 80,000 people really witnessed fights between humans and exotic animals? Or is it just Hollywood effects, depicted in the famous movie Gladiator? Now a popular tourist destination, we entered to experience the mythical structure and find our own clues to demystify some of the historical anecdotes.

Suggested Time Spent: 2-3 Hours     |     Admission: € 12 for Adults   |    Hours: 9AM – 7PM (More information here)

History Lesson

Before we jump into deciphering the mysteries, let’s paint the picture from the structural perspectives. A large amphitheater constructed by the Flavian dynasty (Vespasian, Titus and Dominitan) around 70-80 A.D., on land acquired by Nero after the Great Fire of Rome in 64 A.D. It is believed that it was financed by the spoils of the Jewish Temple in Jerusalem. While there are variations in opinions from historians, the arena (larger than two American Football fields) was used for staging Gladiator fights, animal fights, drama, and believe it or not, naval battles. Some artifacts suggest crucifixions, courthouse and public executions were also part of the usage.

Over the ages, through medieval and modern times, there have been evidences of this being used as a cemetery, church, even bull fight arena under various rulers. But even after deep dive investigations of the ruins, underground tunnel networks, re-engineered capstones by forensic scientists, archaeologists and engineers around the world, instances of blood-baths have not been proven as such. Most evidences of Gladiatorial fights with wild beasts and fights till death are merely anecdotal till date.

Architecture

The columns and arches found in the Colosseum are signature Roman architecture along with underground tunnel network that show Greek influence. A perfect elliptical shape (188m x 150m) contrary to much easier circular construction  is proof of engineering ingenuity of that time. 80 arches, three tiers to hold up to 80,000 spectators, 8 entrances and an exterior covered by travertine points to the design and planning repertoire of the ancient Romans. The design of a two story basement or hypogeum (now visible clearly from all levels inside) to hold Gladiators and animals along with the tunnels to transport water, food and the participants from outside the arena can compete even with modern day architectural feats.

Things to know before you go

  • Like most of the other Roman sites, Colosseum does not have good signage and detailed history inside it. Consider revving up your history lessons from this blog or elsewhere in order to make your trip remarkable.
    • There are smartphone apps (e.g. eTips) that have good commentary on Colosseum, that you can use as a companion.
    • Guided tours are available, but since the place can get extremely crowded, it is hard to follow along. We do not recommend it.
  • In summer, thousands of tourists flock this site, so long lines are inevitable. Consider buying  a ticket online.
    • Better yet, buy the combo ticket from Roman Forum (Fora Romano) across the street. Lines in Colosseum are much longer than at Roman Forum. Check updates on hours and tickets from the official site here.
  • The Colosseum has several steep steps to get to the audience levels three stories up. But it is surprisingly accessible by an elevator for elderly or disabled.

Want to learn more on whether Colosseum was indeed a killing machine? Check out these articles/blogs (NYTimes, BBC Story) and YouTube documentaries (Ancient History, Gladiator Story) before you go. But regardless of your thought process, enjoy the grandeur and significance of this ancient engineering marvel while you are there.

Please leave a comment or ask questions if you are interested to learn more.

 

Mammoth Cave National Park

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Back to USA

While this gem of a site may receive quite a few uninteresting reviews from average tourists, for the science enthusiast and hardcore geologists, this cave system presents a plethora of opportunities to dive deep into the dark and virgin territories under the Earth’s surface, literally. With close to 400 miles of underground cave system, this is the world’s longest caves, and hides a ton of history, even before 1700’s when the caves were discovered by Europeans.

Located between Nashville and Louisville right on interstate 65, it is hard to get to unless you have your own transportation. Suggested time to be spent here is about 4-5 hours. Obviously you cannot navigate through the entire cave system (mind you it has 400 miles of caves), out of which more than 75% is still not ventured out to. You can get a glimpse of the caves without a guide, but for everything else, you’d need a ranger/guide rightfully so.

There are tours offered (Frozen Niagara Tour, Historic Tour) and both take a group of visitors in a line through narrow passages requiring hiking, ducking, swaying. The Frozen Niagara tour takes you through the well lit areas, but in the large dome, they offer to turn off all lights (incl. cellphones) to experience ‘actual’ darkness. This was my favorite part of any cave tour, where you can be sitting in pitch black darkness with zero trace of light emanating from any source. It is simply impossible to recreate that zero-lightness above the surface.

Although it is probably never going to attract a lot of tourists, simply because it tries to keep the ecological balance inside the cave by not modernizing it, thereby making it a sort of ‘dull’. But for someone with some background knowledge about formation of caves and the dynamic eco-system inside them will find the mammoth cave system fascinating. Encourage all the readers to make at least one quick trip if you are passing through or visiting Nashville/Louisville.

Smoky Mountains National Park

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Back to USA

There is not a single good time to go to the Smoky Mountains – fall brings a deluge of color in the slopes, winter shows the snow-capped mountain tops and spring ushers the full bloom of flowers after the snow melts. Located along the Tennessee and North Carolina border, The Great Smoky Mountains are part of the Appalachian Mountains that stretch the entire length of the east coast of USA.

The park gets its name from the ‘smoke’ that appears in the early morning and gets lighter as the day progresses, but keeping a sheet of smoky fog throughout the year on the mountain slopes. The misty and chilly climate of the area paves ground for the flora and fauna in the area.

Thousands of travelers seeking adventure, hiking, and romance flocks to this picturesque mountain ranges every year, around the year. Here are a few highlights of things to do –

  1. Gaitlinburg – At the bottom of the slope before entering the park is this quaint little img_4505town of Gaitlinburg. Some visitors choose to stay here for its proximity to the park and the charm of this town. Strolls around the town during day or night is relaxing and delightful. In the afternoon, enjoy a hot chocolate or cappuccino sitting in a little cafe while you indulge in deep conversations with your travel buddies or just do people-watching, whatever your game. Come night time, especially during holidays, the city structures and sidewalks lit up in bright light fixtures. You can also choose to hit the slopes by going up in the gondola to witness the beauty of the mountains from a nice vantage point.
  2. Smoky Mountains National Park – There are a number of trails and hiking paths to amazing waterfalls through wildflower fields, forests and little streams no one knows leads where. The road leading to the park entrance (US-441) from Gaitlinburg crosses the park and there are clearly marked signs for sights and trails through the road to Cherokee. Some of our favorite POIs on this road are –
    1. Big Witch Gap Overlook – for stunning vistas of the valley img_2403
    2. Cades Cove – historic buildings in the valley surrounded by tall mountains
    3. Cataloochee Overlook – was the home of the Cataloochee tribe and is now one of the eeriest sites in the park
    4. Clingmans Dome – At 6600′ height, this is one of the highest peaks of the Appalachian range. The vista especially in the spring and winter is spectacular with the ice-capped peak and the colorful foliage in the slope.
    5. Elkmont Historic District – is one of the oldest areas in the park which used to be summer time retreat area for the wealthy families in the south.
    6. Gregory Bald – is a scenic point from where you will see the Cades Cove and the mountain to the north.
    7. Heintooga Overlook – is a great spot for sunset. If you have a tripod and a img_2392camera with auto shutter capability, set a timer for taking pictures in a 2 minute interval from 15 minutes before and after sunset. The changing colors of the sky and the foliage in the foreground will make for scintillating snaps.

Other than visiting the visitor center, take a detour to drive on the famous Blue Ridge Parkway going towards Ashville. On the way there are a few spectacular waterfalls (Skinny dip falls, looking glass falls, etc.). In the winter, the drive is adventurous and panoramic.

Hawaii Volcanoes National Park

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Back to Hawaii

Back to Big Island

One of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites, covering over 500 sq. miles of land covered with rock formations and fresh lava flow, Hawaii Volcanoes National Park is a heaven for Geologists. The Mauna Loa and Kilauea volcanoes are the two shining stars in this park that is criss-crossed with trails and paved roads. After entering the park, follow an offline map, or use one of the Driving Tour Smartphone Apps (e.g. Shaka Guide).

For the list of places to cover, refer to Tripadvisor or any public sites including the NPS portal (Click here for a detailed offline printable map).

We thought sharing a little bit of knowledge about Volcanoes and the park might be helpful in your next visit to the park in relating to the concepts much easily. If you are interested in learning about Volcanoes and the formation of Earth, read on.

Written by our resident Geologist co-author, Rupsa

Hawaii Volcanoes: The history and science behind it

All the Hawaiian Islands and Emperor seamount chains are part of a mantle plume system. Mantle plumes or hotspots are nothing but molten rocks (lava) that rise from deep in the earth (mostly mantle) and reaches the surface of the earth through a weak zone (could be some deep fractures). The other common examples of islands created by hotspots are Iceland, Galapagos, etc.

Mantle plumes are stationary and can erupt through hundreds of years to millions of years before going extinct. Hawaiian plume has been erupting for millions of years creating Emperor Seamount chains, followed by Kauai which is the oldest island in Hawaii. As the Pacific plate moved over the plume, it went on to create Oahu, Maui, and the rest of the Hawaiian Islands before creating the Big Island. The hotspot is under Big Island currently. As the rate of plate motion has slowed down over the years, the same part of the plate is over the hotspot for a longer period, creating the largest island in Hawaii.

There are three types of lava flow structures that are most abundant in volcanic islands like Hawaii.

  • Pillow lavas: Pillow lavas are volumetrically the most abundant type commonly found in the underwater seamounts.
  • Pahoehoe lava: If lava cools slowly and does not move too fast it forms smooth ropy lava called pahoehoe. This type of flow forms some of the common features on the surface. Pahoehoe lava is characterized by a smooth, billowy, or ropy surface.Pahoehoe flows tend to be relatively thin, from a few inches to a few feet thick.
  • A’a lava:If lava cools quickly and moves fast it can tear into pieces called A’a.  A’a flow is characterized by a rough, jagged, spinose, and generally crackly surface. A’a lava flows tend to be relatively thick compared to pahoehoe flows. A’a flows, while rocky and sharp on the top, are extremely dense underneath – producing some of the most difficult rocks to cut through. Several hikes in the National Park take you past huge boulders of dense solid A’a. It is easy to compare with Pahoehoe that tends to be in layers.

Pele’s hair and Pele’s tear: Named after the Hawaiian goddess of fire, Pele, these structures form during times of high fire-fountaining. Pele’s hair are thin filaments of stretched out basaltic glass. Pele’s tears or Achneliths are tiny droplets of lava that look like tear-drops.

sulphur-springs

Sulphur Springs abundant with Pele’s hair and tears

Researchers have found that these are formed by the same overall process from the lava fountains, depending on the velocity of the erupting lava. High velocity and strong winds favor formation of Pele’s hair. Sometimes Pele’s tears are found attached at the tips of Pele’s hairs.

Big island has multiple volcanoes both active and dormant. Three major ones are –

  1. Mauna Kea – Dormant Cinder Top Volcano, 4,205m tall. Has a steep and irregular topography compared to other similar volcanoes in the area.
  2. Mauna Loa – Another cinder top volcano at 4,170m tall, it is younger than Mauna Kea, and erupts every few years.  A series of earthquakes beneath Mauna Kea may signal that an eruption could occur within a short time, although it cannot predict the magnitude of eruption.
  3. Kilauea – In the last few years, Kilauea volcano is active and erupting continuously. Before going to Hawaii, do check the current lava flow status here. The recent eruptions are from the Halema’uma’u Crater at its summit and from the Puʻu ʻŌʻō vent in towards the east. Lava flow from Puʻu ʻŌʻō is relatively recent (30 years old) and continues to enter the ocean at Kamokuna. Although surface flows have been common in this eruption, most of the lava from the vent travels concealed in lava

    kulaeau-crater

    Kilauea Crater from Jagger Museum (shot around 5am)

    tubes until it reaches the ocean. A blowout during a 2008 eruption built a lava lake in Halema’uma’u crater, which is a remnant of a past explosion. The lava is in this crater is as light as water. The base level of the crater is unstable to the point that it rises and falls by the minute. The gaping hole through which the eruption is visible, is a direct conduit into Kilauea’s magma reserves. This crater is just a gentle reminder how active and dynamic our mother Earth really is.

The experience of witnessing rock in its bright molten state and watching new land being formed is quite a fascinating experience, if you are lucky enough to witness it. When hot lava enters the water, it bursts into pieces, building new land at the ocean edge from the fragmental material. This pile of rubble is then covered with a veneer of lava flows, forming a “bench”. Initially the bench is weak enough that it can collapse with the smallest disturbance around it. After multiple layers of such deposits and cooling of magma, typically taking several hundred years, once the bench is stable and large enough, a new island is created. After hundreds of years of depositions of lava followed by some tectonic activity (earthquake mostly) those submerged islands rose above the water and resulted in the islands the way we see them in the present. In a nutshell, that is a brief history of the Hawaiian Islands. There are multiple islands like these that are currently submerged under the ocean in the area, and in a few hundred years we will be able to see another island full of volcanic activity, south of the Big Island.

Tips Before Visiting the Park

Although there are clearly marked barriers and signs at sites, there are some common sense warnings that one MUST follow. Read on to find out the science and geology behind those hazards and why it is important to follow them for your own safety.

  • What are the Volcanic Hazards Facing you?
    • Bench collapse can cause a 100-200 feet steep drop into unknown craters
    • Rock jets & littoral fountains hurl hot lava that erratically gets sprayed
    • Steam blasts toss rocks
    • Acid fumes (Sulphur di oxide, carbon monoxide) and glass particles can irritate eyes and lungs causing suffocation and choking
    • Scalding waves burn where lava meets ocean
  • Recommendations:
    • Do not stand near the steep cliffs. This land is extremely weak and breaks off frequently; it is impossible to climb up from the crater or ocean vertically.
    • Do not go on the rocks close to a volcanic eruption. Bench collapses have killed people.
    • Do not go near the water as it can be boiling hot and likely contains sulphur fumes.
    • Move inland quickly if you hear unusual noises.
    • Please be prepared for personal hazards especially when hiking through the enormous lava fields:
      • Most injuries are not directly due to the eruption. Intense sunlight and high temperatures can lead to dehydration, heat exhaustion, or sunstroke. Air temperatures near lava flows can exceed 120°F (49°C), depending on cloud cover and wind conditions.
      • At higher elevations, wind and rain can lead to hypothermia (low body temperature). Carry sunscreen and a hat, and drink more water than you think you need.
      • Injuries from a fall are common. It is easy to break through a thin, overhanging crust of lava or trip on a crack and fall on the abrasive, glassy surface. U.S. Geological Survey (USGS) scientists always wear long pants, sturdy boots, and sometimes gloves when working near the flows. Never shorts and flip-flops!
      • Before visiting the lava field, check with Park Rangers for current conditions and for the best approach route. Park Rangers do not recommend that you attempt the hike to the coast if you are unprepared or uninformed. The area is remote, has no shade or water source, and is seldom patrolled. Also, most areas in the park has no cellphone reception.

If you are interested to find out more about Hawaiian Volcanoes there are plethora of information in the internet. Some of the sites that I personally like are:

  • USGS website in general. Their live webcam of Kilauea is quite fascinating.
  • Universities often organize field trips to the Hawaiian Volcanoes and their reports are usually easy to follow and contains lots of authentic interesting information. One of such link is here

Because of their altitude, the summits are covered in snow in winter and are usually cold and windy in the rest of the year. So, if you plan to go for star gazing, sunset viewing at the summit, or hiking up to the visitors’ center (beyond which tourists are not allowed to drive on their own) please be prepared with warm clothes unless you are used to the Polar weather!! If you go for star gazing and sunset viewing (highly recommended) with a tour company (read our experience), they usually provide parkas. However, if you are like me to whom anything below 55˚F (10˚C) is freezing please carry a pair of gloves, and wear long pants (preferably wind buster), and close toed comfort shoes are also highly recommended.

Puebla and Cholula

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The drive from Xochimilco/Mexico City is scenic with colorful houses up the hills, wide view of the Volcanoes, and clear blue skies up above. The new toll roads make the drive through the hills fairly easy. On our way to Puebla, we hit the Cholula ruins first in the afternoon, followed by a short trip to Puebla City.

Cholula

A city of Churches, Pyramids and Volcanoes, the area boasts a wide array of visual treats. The entry into the ruins cost about MXN $65 for non-Mexicans, and typically there is a line to enter. The entrance to the pyramids/ruins from the main road is through a tunnel that is part of a huge network of tunnels. ~10 kilometers of tunnels have been identified and restored for tourists’ use so far. The tunnel, although is marked well, is dimly lit, really narrow, and when crowded can be extremely claustrophobic.
Through the tunnels, you will be taken to the other side of the pyramids where a steep set of stairs will lead you up to the top of the pyramid to the Church. From the top of the Church, amazing views of the city with colorful houses and churches, and the volcanoes (if the sky is clear) can be cherished.

The other part of the ruins, the pyramids can be viewed from the bottom of the stairs, and also can be accessed easily. These pyramids were also built in four stages similar to the Templo Mayor in Mexico City. But these pyramids are not as grand as the ones in Teotihuacan, or Chichen-Itza (Mayan), but it’s cultural importance is astounding as it was at the helm of the civilization and was one of the most importance centers at that time.

Location Tips –
GPS Address: Av. 8 Norte #2, Centro, 72760 San Andrés Cholula, Pue., Mexico

Parking situation near the ruins area can be tricky. But there are public parking spots available at nominal charge (~MXN $25) in the by lanes parallel to the main street.

Puebla

After exploring the little city of Cholula, we ventured out to the much larger and more vibrant, Puebla. We headed straight to the Zocalo area, and parked in one of the public parking lots at MXN $14 per hour. The main street of Ave. Reforma, during the holidays, was swarming with tourists (mostly Mexicans) and was adorned with lighting fixtures everywhere. The festivities were apparent in each direction, and it grew as we walked closer to the main square of Zocalo. The historic center of the city is surrounded by hotels, restaurants and shops, along with historical sites. We visited the two most interesting ones –
a. Cathedral de Puebla – Embelished with artwork on metal, chandeliers and murals, this was another masterpiece of a church. During the holidays, thousands of visitors come in for casual viewing or prayers.
b. Palacio Municipal de Puebla – The grand structure right next to the park/square, is the main office of the city. A guide will escort a group of tourists upstairs and explaining the history of the palace along with the city in great detail. The guide only speaks Spanish so prepare yourselves.

For dinner, the little street side shops on Ave 2 Sur (between Calle 3 and Ave Reforma) are really good options. Tip – to be slightly away from the crowd, and away from the beggars, choose a seat near the restaurant walls. Most places here will also offer some live music by local artists.

Location Tips –
GPS Address: Juan de Palafox y Mendoza, Centro, 72000 Puebla, PUE, Mexico
Parking – Look out for sign “E” (short for Estacionemente/Parking) along the way to the Zocalo square along Ave Reforma (or any parallel street)

Xochimilco

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Xochimilco, one of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites, located only 30-40 minutes south of Mexico City, has a network of canals. A lazy boat ride will take you through the canals which may remind you of Venice. The Mexican touch comes in when you spot vibrantly colored boats, Mariachi singers and vendors on boats selling tacos and corn.

We got an entire boat to ourselves so we could stop and do what we please. Our guide tried explaining everything in Spanish and we understood only 50%. With that in mind, anything written below might be half correct. 😉

The painted trajinera (boat) took us around the floating town at a leisurely pace. The city Tenochtitlan (now Mexico DF) was apparently fed by agriculture from this area in pre-historic times. The charm of pre-hispanic culture still remains buried underneath the shallow waters but the modernization of the canals through engineering feats like lock-gates, etc. have kept it alive. The lazy river ride brought forth several encounters with the street vendors with whom you’d be better off not buying anything lest you be ripped severely. Some of the bridges and houses will remind the ignorant of European architecture, before being told that Europeans stole these from here.

Enjoy the ride as much as you can, before you get back to the mundane city life. This is the one hour that you’d have believed that the real pace of life can actually be this slow. To me that 1 hour seemed like an eternity, but when the tour ended, it reminded me of the times we should actually put everything else to bed and stay awake giving the brain some time back to relax.

Location Tips –
GPS Address: Blvd Adolfo Ruíz Cortinez (Periférico Sur) N/A, Xochimilco, Unidad habitacional aztlán, 16034 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico
Once in the city, you will find multiple places offering Boat Rides. But go to the above address, and find parking. Parking rates range from MXN $40 to MXN $50 for the entire stay. Official rates for boat rides are MXN $350 per person. But the folks in the Embarcadero will offer different tours at random prices. Bargain shamelessly until you get them at $350 per person per hour or lower.

Check out our Photo Gallery Here

 

Teotihuacan, Mexico

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GPS Address: Pyramid of the Sun, San Juan Teotihuacán, 55800 Teotihuacán de Arista, State of Mexico, Mexico

Teotihuacan was a pre-hispanic mesoamerican city, with the pyramids, and a plethora of ancient ruins assembled in an area of ~12 square miles. It is designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site (1987) and attracts a heavy number of tourists both from within Mexico and outside. The city was home to Nahuatl speaking Aztecs and predates the Mayan civilization.

There are two main pyramids (Pyramid of the Moon and Pyramid of the Sun), avenue of the dead, pre-historic murals, and residential complexes. Walk around the ancient city along the avenue of the dead will surely stimulate your senses, especially if you can read Spanish. Most of the signs and the descriptions are written in Spanish, so it will help to have an offline dictionary handy if you cannot read Spanish.

If you enter through the parking lot #1 and walk towards the Pyramid of the Moon on the other side of the city, you will do so via the Avenue of the Dead. Along the road, there will be ruins of temples, residential complexes and marketplaces along with the places to worship.

Pyramids – The larger one (75m high) is the Piramide del Sol, has multiple levels (around 100 steps of various shape and sizes). The first two stages are easier than the last one with narrower steps. But once atop, it is a vista you’d not want to miss. There is always a line to climb, and it gets pretty crowded up in the levels so be careful. The smaller one (Piramide del Luna) is probably half the height that of the Piramide del Sol, but the steps are steeper. You can only climb halfway, but the view is amazing regardless.

In the avenue of the dead, near the Moon Pyramid, there are two things that you should not miss –
1. Mural of a Puma – due to great restoration work, the paint and the sketch is still visible. Many such murals were there in the city, but are not yet restored.
2. Chalchiuhticre – Apparently a random piece of stone, that was actually a sculpture from the past of the Goddess of Water. This is probably one of the very few stones that are preserved from the past. Rest of the stone, building walls, and monuments are all restored to somewhat extent.

Other places for good photo ops and historical importance are the Citadel (the first site near the entrance 1), El palacio de Quetzalpapalotl, remains of a smaller pyramid showing somewhat the plan, and Plaza de la Luna, etc.

Along the avenue of the dead, there are street vendors selling stuff like the Mayan Calendar (which is fake as it is actually called Sun Stone; Mayan calendar looks more like a Gregorian Calendar with different counting of days and months), Statues made with Obsidian (most of them are probably fake too as some of the texture was not of any igneous rock), Jaguares (small airpipe that makes an annoying noise), etc. Be careful buying anything from here, likely you will be ripped off unless you are fluent in Spanish to aid in heavy bargaining process. If you like something, just quote a low price that you are comfortable with and walk away.

In the avenue of the dead, near the Moon Pyramid, there are two things that you should not miss –
1. Mural of a Puma – due to great restoration work, the paint and the sketch is still visible. Many such murals were there in the city, but are not yet restored.
2. Chalchiuhticre – Apparently a random piece of stone, that was actually a sculpture from the past of the Goddess of Water. This is probably one of the very few stones that are preserved from the past. Rest of the stone, building walls, and monuments are all restored to somewhat extent.

Once out of the area, walk to the car and drive out to have food in the nearby restaurants or visit the Teotihuacan museum. We ate at one of the local restaurants that served homemade food, one of the family members sang a song for us, and had a couple of mezcals for free. Yelp review here.

Check out the Gallery for Teotihuacan (UNESCO World Heritage Site)

Chichen Itza and the Cenotes

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Chichen Itza

Pyramid of Kukulcan (El Castillo)

May 2014

Day two took us to the much awaited visit to the Mayan civilization nested inland, 200km from Cancun. A $79 per person bus tour was organized from the Hotel Concierge, that picked us up by 7:30am. Breakfast, drinks, and lunch was included, along with narratives on the history and backgrounds of the Mayan people. If required, we also gathered a nice map for the site, which is regarded as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. Until a few years back, tourists could climb up the stairs of the mesoamerican pyramids, but due to vandalism and to protect the ancient wonder, tourists are no longer permitted to climb.

Facts:
  • In Mayan, Cancun (Kaan Kun) means ‘Nest of the Serpent’. Watch out for the Iguanas in all parts of the area.
  • Chichen means the mouth of the well. Itz is the high priest.
  • About 800,000 people still speak the Mayan language, albeit the written language is not practiced anymore, possibly due to the large number of characters and complexity of the structures.
  • Apart from the Cusco area in Mexico, Mayans still reside in Belize, El Salvador, Guatemala.
  • Mayans followed the Venus cycle for the famous (or infamous) Mayan Calendar. The calendar counts number of days from the start of the cycle, which is when the Earth, the Sun, and the Venus align. This is the creation date.
  • Mayan Calendar: Two wheels rotating in opposite directions measure the number of days. The best way to display the LC (long count) day is: Baktun.Katun.Tun.Uinal.Kin. Details of the format can be found here.

In the entire tour, taking 3 hours, we came to know several interesting things about the area. That the area is covered with limestone, made the rivers to run underwater, and therefore provided unlimited filtered water to the inhabitants of the village. The Chichens were smart people, and had placed great values on family, GOD, and the tribe they belonged to. Multiple wars were fought in the days to gain power. They were engineers too. Built straight roads to the ocean, used zero, erected hollow pyramids, and created scientifically designed structures that marked the four seasons based on the Earth’s orbital cycles. By far the most important structure in the area is the Pyramid of Kukulcan (deity of serpent). The pyramid has staircases, designed in a way to make it look like two snakes winding up to the top, with their heads in the ground level. During the equinoxes, the shadows create the visual effect of the deity whirling down the staircase. Interesting: The four staircases have 91 steps, and the final step on the top adds up to the number of days in a solar calendar, 365 days.

El Caracol
Great Ball Court

Other structures we visited were the Great ball court (where the game of Pok ta Pok was played during specific events), the Sacred Wall, El Caracol (the observatory of the Mayans), Chac Mool (the lying human statue), and El Mercado (the market). The structures were all painted in different colors, and over the years, the colors have faded but the rocks still managed to exist even after 1000 years of existence. In essence the Mayans somehow reminded us of the Egyptian and Indus civilizations, albeit without any chance of communication among them. Similarities in the pyramid structure, reliance on the high priests on horoscopes and decisions, and worshiping of deities for food and income would run a shiver if thought carefully.

El Mercado
The Sacred Wall
Chac Mool

After the tour, we were taken to a so called ‘Co-Operative’ for Mayan people where we had a delicious Mexican and Yucatan style lunch buffet accessorized with local music and dancers. But the store up front, had mass produced items at an exceedingly steep price. Therefore, we took the less beaten path, and crossed the street to find a little mom-and-pop shop that had equally good souvenirs. A little bit of haggling for price, with the Calcutta trained shopper, yielded great results. 🙂

Ik Kil Cenote

 

Cenotes

The tour stopped for a little bit at one of the largest Cenotes (Sink Hole). The Ik Kil Cenote was a good place to be in a hot summer day. With a depth of about 140 feet, one can jump from different heights into the crystal clear water. There are underground tunnels underneath the surface of the water which is about 80 feet from the ground level. For the less adventurous ones, life vests are available for $3, and for the far less adventurous ones, the 80 step staircase would take you to the water level, where you can feel the water and soak the toes. The return phase of the trip was fun with unlimited supply of cerveza, and tequilla shots. Interesting way of getting people to slumber.

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