Category: World Heritage

Machu Picchu – The Lost Incan City

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Was it a citadel, a summer get-away for the Inca Emperors or was it a fortress protecting something stunningly valuable? While archaeologists and historians search for answers, millions of tourists flock to the mystical paradise of Machu Picchu to soak in the mysteries, explore the engineering feats of the Incas and glide (metaphorically) over breath-taking panoramas atop the mountains!

Located at about 2,800m atop the Machu Picchu mountain, there are many

Iconic view of Machu Picchu

Iconic view of Machu Picchu

sectors in the citadel, including the temples, streets, plazas and agricultural terraces (Read details here). The structural features and genius engineering concepts put to work half a century ago, coupled with the mysteries and myths of the purpose of the architecture qualifies it to be one of the new wonders of the world. UNESCO rightfully has recognized it as one of the Heritage Sites, and is constantly working on ensuring the sustainability around it.

A Brief History of Machu Picchu and the Incas

Classic civilizations from pre-historic era have always spurred up close to water bodies, such as the Egyptian civilization by the mighty river Nile, Indus valley civilization by river Sindh, to name a few. Aztec and Mayan civilizations of central and south America, also flourished near water bodies. A relatively new Inca civilization, dating back to the fifteenth century, thrived in the Andean highlands, before Spanish conquests in the 1530’s. The Inca empire stretched from present day Argentina to southern Colombia, but did only managed to reign for less than a century.

How the Inca developed cutting edge engineering, architectural and agricultural feats, without use of wheels, iron works, draft animals and currency, gives rise to a plethora of questions. Researchers did not even find an established writing system, which spawns the mysticism around the Inca empire and its achievements.

While present day Cusco (Qosco in ancient Incan tongue) was the capital of the empire, Machu Picchu remains to be the most iconic Inca archaeological site. Even though no concrete evidence of the actual purpose of the site is available till date, the intricate designs of the roads, irrigation systems, structures, temples and agricultural areas at such a remote location, suggest it was built for something worthy of protection.

Since no evidence of iron-works can be found in the site, we have to assume that the Inca mastered the art of stone masonry. Large blocks of uneven stones cut and placed to hold large structures in place without mortars, in an earthquake prone region, make modern day engineers envious.

How to get to Machu Picchu?

Machu Picchu is located at a remote location atop the enormous Machu Picchu mountain. The iconic site is extremely controlled to traffic, and is only accessible in a couple of different ways, albeit some variations can be made available. Train, bus, hikes or a combination of the three, depending on time and effort, are required to get to the Machu Picchu ruins. See details of transportation options below.

Ten Important Things to know before going to Machu Picchu

What is in Machu Picchu?

As the most recognizable symbol of the classic Inca empire, Machu Picchu holds a number of mysteries that have yet to be answered. Surrounded by the hill of Huyana Picchu, the massive mountain of Machu Picchu and the rushing Urubamba river, the ruins contain clues to unearth the reasons for its mere existence and glimpses of the civilization.

Notable structures and sectors:

  • Agricultural Sector: Built in the southern slopes of the complex up to the Intipuncu (sun gate), the incredible series of terraces facing the rising sun were used for agriculture around the year. Scientists have found clues that the soil and the architecture helped the Inca sow a variety of seasonal produce to secure food for the inhabitants. The construction likely had another purpose that establishes the engineering genius of the Inca – to stabilize the complex in an earthquake prone zone.
  • Urban Sector: The central plaza separates the upper and lower sections of the urban sector. The configuration of these areas, surrounded by the drainage channel (or the moat) and access gate highlights the differences in both the inhabitants of these two regions and the purpose. The Sun Gate (Intipuncu) acts as the regal gate controlling the access to the plaza from the classic Inca Highway (now known as the Inca Trail). Although there are still variations among the archaeologists about the purpose of this plaza, ranging from being a religious center to a fortress, there are clues in the small rooms with tiny holes indicating that these may have been used to hold prisoners.
    • Various structures are apparent in either section of the urban sector. Storehouses located at the right after passing the entrance gate, having small (12’x12′) rooms with tiny holes likely to allow sunlight, may have been used for storing grain or as workshops. Royal palace can be seen from afar that is unique in its fine stonework and arrangement of chambers around a beautiful private patio with a view of the central plaza.
    • Walking up the stairs from the central plaza, is the Sacred Plaza, where the Temple of the Three Windows and the Temple of the Altar can be found. The trapezoidal windows facing the rising sun, and the facade facing the central plaza where the public ceremonies were held.
  • The Intihuatana: It is the pyramidal structure at the top of the elevated ground, and is shaped like a truncated pyramid. This can potentially be used as an observatory, and may have been used like a sundial. Precise function of this structure, as of the others, remain a mystery, but the elevated location can also mean a way to locate enemies coming from afar through the river valley.
  • Temple of the Condor: Located at the lowest sector of the site, this has a unique feature that calls for a bit of explanation. V shaped rock was carved to appear like a flying condor. The grandeur design with intricate rock carvings to display the widespread wingspan and the collar around the bird’s neck makes an incredible view. Artifacts discovered around it suggest it may be used for worshiping the magnificent Andean Condor, and the surrounding cells used for keeping the most important mummies.
  • Temple of the Mortars: An iconic feature of the site is the Mortars sector, which can be entered through a double jamb doorway implying the significance of the area. Surrounding this area, are the storehouses with tiny windows facing the east side. Food grains and other essentials were likely stored here, depicted by the clear chambers and duct-like systems for airflow.
  • The Watchman’s Hut
  • View from the Watchman’s Hut
  • Doorway to the Citadel
  • Agricultural sector from the storehouses
  • Passageway to the Central Plaza
  • View of the Urban Sector
  • View of the Urubamba Valley
  • Central Plaza
  • Llamas were reared for meat and fur, sometimes used for sacrifices
  • Llama sighting at the central plaza
  • Sacred Rock
  • View of the Temple of Mortars
  • View of the Agricultural Sector from Temple of Sun
  • Putucusi
  • Temple of the Condor
  • Stone work without mortars
  • Huyana Picchu

Things to know before going to Machu Picchu

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Okay, so you want to go see the lost Inca city up in the mountains? Unlike many other mystical sites around the world, it is not an easy one to get to or even plan for. Thankfully, travel bloggers over the internet has made it an easier job, but one needs to spend a lot of time trying to figure out the steps to ensure their trip to Machu Picchu is worry free.

  • Peru Rail Expedition
  • Urubamba River view from Train ride
  • Town of Aguas Calientes
  • View of the Urubamba Valley
  • Llamas in Machu Picchu
  • Peru Rail Vistadome

Since going to Machu Picchu does require planning well in advance, follow these simple but crucial steps below to ensure your trip to Machu Picchu is all set.

  1. Plan Early: A trip to Machu Picchu is like no other destinations. Due to restrictions (mostly due to sustainability and conservation) on visitors to the site and extremely high demand, we strongly recommend planning and booking the trip at least 3 months in advance. Peak season is June-August, so it is even harder to get bookings.
    • If you are planning to hike the famous Inca Trail, spots get filled even earlier.
  2. Stay in Sacred Valley: Although many tourists make Cusco their ‘base camp’, we found it more rational to go straight to Sacred Valley for a couple of reasons –
    • Distance: It is closer to Machu Picchu (~2 hours less train ride) than from Cusco
    • Altitude: Sacred valley is at a lower elevation than Cusco (3,399 meters), so getting acclimatized to altitude is easier this way
  3. Tickets to Machu Picchu: Even before worrying about transportation to Machu Picchu, book tickets to Machu Picchu site. (Check availability here). There are three different options:
    • Machu Picchu Mountains + Machu Picchu Site – Machu Picchu mountains are located above the site and takes a bit longer to hike, but less strenous than Huyana Picchu. Tourists opt for this if Huyana Picchu tickets are not available.
    • Huyana Picchu Mountains + Machu Picchu Site – Climbing up the steep slopes of Huyana Picchu, albeit worth the hike, is a strenous one. It takes about 2 hours to climb. Need tickets 4 months in advance (in peak season, even this may be too late)
    • Machu Picchu site only – Need at least 3-4 hours to soak in the experience. Tickets are NOT sold at the gate, and must be booked at least 3 days in advance.
  4. Transportation to Machu Picchu: Machu Picchu is located at a remote location, with the closest town being Aguas Calientes. Below are the two options to get to Machu Picchu:
    • Public Transport: A train – bus combination is the easiest –
      • Sacred Valley/Cusco to Aguas Calientes: Two train operators (Peru Rail and Inka Rail) operate trains between these two locations, with very similar service offerings. We took the Peru Rail Expedition train from Ollyantaytambo station at 6 am. It takes about 2 hours to get to Aguas Calientes.
      • Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu: From the station in Aguas Calientes, you will need to walk about 5 minutes, cross the river bridge into the town of Aguas Calientes. Buses leave from there every 10 minutes taking tourists up a spiral road to Machu Picchu. This trip takes about 30 minutes, and no other vehicles are allowed on this treacherous road. Please note that there is typically a long queue to get on the bus. If traveling with a lap infant, you can skip the line and get in front. It is a perk available at most places in Peru (Yay to new parents).
    • Hike the Inca Trail: With a 8 month old on the lap, we did not even think of this route, but it is an incredible journey, we hear! Many tour companies offer their guided tours for this iconic 3-4 day tour involving hiking, camping, climbing. We were told that it is closed for operations in February though.
    • There are a few other variations of getting to Machu Picchu, such as longer and more adventurous Jungle trail, Choquequirao tour, Salkantay Mountain trek, etc. Some travelers choose to walk down from Machu Picchu on the same road as the bus takes you up. The views, are typically incredible, unless cloud/fog cover.
  5. Early bird catches the worm: Unless you are staying in Aguas Calientes, getting to Machu Picchu before 8am is unlikely. But catching the first train out of Ollyantaytambo can get you to the gate by 8am. Remember to buy the tickets for Machu Picchu accordingly (tickets are allotted in two ranges – morning and afternoon). Getting to Machu Picchu early has its perks –
    • Fewer people: Quite obviously, the earlier you get to the Machu Picchu site, chances are you are going to get nicer snaps without people ‘photobombing’! The bus lines are shorter and the treacherous climbs up and down the uneven stone steps are easier.
    • Weather: The weather so far high up in the mountains can change dramatically, very quickly. Chances of catching the sunny portion of the day is higher earlier in the day
  6. Guided Tour: Getting a guide is highly advisable in the ruins. Unless you already have booked a guided tour, you can hire a guide on site. It was unclear to us prior to reaching Machu Picchu, whether a guide is mandatory. It turns out that you can definitely go in without one, albeit may not get the full picture, literally. Guides can cost about $20-$40 per person, be sure to negotiate as there is ample supply. We got together with another family of two, to get a better deal of $60 for all 4 of us.
  7. Passport: No you are not going to another country; you can stamp your passport at the exit door. Great memorabilia to keep!
  8. Photo Ops: First sight of the incredible Machu Picchu ruins are going to blow your mind, especially if you have seen the iconic photo for a long time. But a travel blogging trade secret is to carry a colorful dress or hat or even a photo prop to capture a photo with Machu Picchu ruins in the background. Peruvian alpaca shawls work wonders, just saying!
  9. Llamas: No, Llamas are not everywhere in Machu Picchu, but about 15 of them can be seen lazing around in the meadows. Do not hesitate to take a picture with them if one gets close to you, as if you do it in Cusco, be prepared to pay the person with the Llama!
  10. Housekeeping: A few mundane, yet crucial things to carry in your bag are –
    • Printed Tickets – No cellphone signal up here, and the ticket agents only accept printed tickets (as of September, 2019)
    • Water bottles – There is a kiosk to buy overpriced water bottles, so better to carry your own
    • Snacks – Dry snacks suitable for any hikes
    • Loose change – Primarily for restroom use. No services within the site. There is one restroom at the entrance that charges about 1 Soles, payable in exact cash/coin
    • Rain gear – Weather is unpredictable up here. So carry a poncho or rain jacket with you; umbrellas are cumbersome when you have to hike up and down uneven stone steps
    • No selfie sticks or tripods – Leave these at home or hotel, these are not allowed within the site

Now that you have everything you need for a memorable Machu Pichu trip, check out what you expect to see and get smarter on the mysticism of the classic Inca civilization here.

Amsterdam

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Back to The Netherlands

Remember those canals and the bridges in Venice; there are about 500 bridges there. Amsterdam boasts a mighty 1200 bridges over its looping canal system. Let’s do another fun fact – how many bicycles are there in Amsterdam? Including owned and rental ones, there are close to 0.9 million bicycles for a resident base of 800,000. Have appetite for another one – how many houseboats are there in Amsterdam? 3,500!

Our intent was not to bore you with trivia, rather wanted to underline what a fun city Amsterdam is. From the blissful walks alongside the canals to sinful visits to the coffeeshops and the red-light district, a few days in Amsterdam and the world’s your oyster. It is worth mentioning here, that with its fortification around the city and the canals originally meant as a defense mechanism from floods and invasion, is now a renowned UNESCO World Heritage Site. Find out more on our rendezvous with other UNESCO World Heritage Sites here.

Let’s look at what can we do in a 3-4 day itinerary. Will revisit the fun facts at the bottom of this page.

Canals and Bridges

On your way to the city center from the Schipol airport, you will cross several canals. These canals (we heard that there were 150+ canals) are both heart and armor of the city, serving as one of the best ways to navigate as well as a system to defend against impending flooding. Towards the coast, you will get to see and walk on the famous dykes, but the canals system along with the picturesque bridges around town are a treat to the eyes. Some bridges operate as lock gates that lift up for passing ships. Taking a canal tour with hop on hop off facility is the best way to explore the canals, bridges and exquisite architecture around them. Featured in numerous movies and sets of famous paintings by Monet, the views from the canal cruises will tire your fingers from clicking pictures. Be sure to keep an eye on the tilted houses (aka dancing houses) and the houseboats around the cruise trip.

Museums

Amsterdam was home to a number of famous contemporary artists (e.g. Rembrandt, Vermeer and Van Gogh) as well as historic landmarks. It is no surprise that it boasts quite a few museums varying in their sizes and importance. Listed below are a few (ordered in decreasing priority in our opinion) that you can and should accommodate in your 3-4 day itinerary –

  • Anne Frank House: If you have read the book Anne Frank’s Diary, this museum is going to bring the melancholy memoirs of the little girl during the holocaust. I feel it is a must for every responsible citizen of the world to learn and empathize with DSC_1134the victims of the period of insanity during WWII, and the museum does a good job of taking the visitor through the intricacies of the life of an average Jew through the eyes of Anne Frank.
    • Note that there is often a long wait to get in; so buy the tickets online for a scheduled time. Check hours and buy tickets here.
    • Tickets: Adults €10  |  Hours: 9AM – 7PM or 9AM – 10PM (winters)  |  Suggested Time Spent: 2 Hours
  • Rijksmuseum: Probably the most popular museum in the city, the Dutch national museum, located in the museum quarter (museumplein), hosts art and history from the middle ages to modern times. It features legendary artwork by Rembrandt, Vermeer, Van Gogh, Hals and Jan Steen, along with depiction of art history from around the world. Beyond appreciating the master pieces, we found the depiction of colonial times in Asia and Latin America were provocative and powerful.
    • Note that there is always a long line (wait times can be up to 4 hours) to get in, because of capacity constraints and popularity. So definitely buy the tickets online to save some time here.
    • Tickets: Adults €17.50  |  Hours: 9AM – 7PM |  Suggested Time Spent: 2 – 3 Hours

  • Van Gogh Museum: Located in the museumplein, this hosts the world’s largest collection of paintings by the prominent painter from the impressionism era. The museum does a great job of following the life story of the short lived icon, from his early life in the Netherlands, Paris till the end in southern France. It houses paintings and letters from some of his contemporaries too, making it a holistic experience for an art lover.
    • This is also an extremely crowded museum, so do yourself a favor by buying the tickets in advance here.
    • Tickets: Adults €18  |  Hours: 9AM – 5PM |  Suggested Time Spent: 2 Hours
  • Moco Museum: Last but not the least, located in the same plaza in a 19th century townhouse, this is the museum of modern art. We are not big fans of modern art, but still the collection blew our minds. Our favorite was the Banksy collection of street art.
    • Tickets: Adults €13.50  |  Hours: 9AM – 5PM |  Suggested Time Spent: 1 Hour

  • There are a couple of other museums that we would have loved to sneak in, Stedelijk Museum, Rembrandthuis, and Foam, but need to postpone till the next visit.

Red-light District

As you may have heard, Amsterdam has a fairly open culture with it being neutral to prostitution and drugs. While some of it is hyped up, there are some controlled elements of both in play here. The relatively small district is made up of a bunch of alleys and a section along the canal, where sex shops, live sex theaters and neon lit aisles with scantily clad women market their ‘product’ or ‘service’!Ams XXX Sign

Best time to visit (sorry for being Ms. Obvious), is around 10 p.m. when the area springs back to life. Our top picks in the area (not for the fainthearted, we warn you) –

  • Hit a coffeeshop (Bulldog the First is our pick) for a reefer or a joint (remember to research the difference beforehand lest you are hit with a surprise),
  • Appreciate the windows with red curtains (!) along the alleys in De Wallen, and what’s inside. Don’t ask for pricing details; not our thing. But look out for the blue neon lights that stands out from the ubiquitous red neons. Find out for yourself what that means (this is the surprise element, no judgments)
  • For the more curious, hop into one of the live sex theaters or peep shows. Typically they show all kinds of sex encounters (straight, gay, S&M, bondage, etc.), and note that these are performances only.

Note – Although it is highly controlled, so a fairly safe place to roam around after dark, be cautious for pickpockets. Also, cannot emphasize enough, do not take pictures of the prostitutes on the windows or in the theaters.

Miscellaneous

In a 3-4 day trip going from one site to other within the city, you will be able to experience the city neighborhoods and appreciate their individual charm. While on foot, do hop into the random coffeeshops (for coffee, not canabis all the time) and small restaurants for some local fare. While in museumplein, don’t forget a picture with the I Amsterdam sign (although is full of tourists 24 hours a day!). There are several farmers markets, and festivals during the holidays where you can taste artisan cheese and craft beer to your hearts content. For a beer aficionado, a quick trip to the Heineken museum may be worth it – we are not big fans of big box lager beer, plus is not a working brewery, so skipped it. Instead, go to Albert Cuyp Market during the day and fill up your appetite and thirst alike. You won’t regret it, believe us. For people watching and relaxing, our favorite has been the Rembrandt Square.

Slightly underrated is the history of diamond in the city. The quest for diamond in Congo by King Leopold of Belgium is well known, but back in the days, the Dutch excelled in mining and marketing diamond jewelry too. A quick visit to the Gassan Diamond Tour may be worthwhile, but can seem monotonous and a sales trick to some. We wouldn’t advise buying from their shop inside due to lack of assurance of quality, even though it may appear cheaper.

Tips and Tricks to Navigate the City

  • Hopefully you plan to visit the famous museums in the city; if that is so, buy the Amsterdam city pass. It will save you some money but more importantly, TIME.
  • Try to avoid uber/taxis whenever possible as the routes may seem short but will take a long time due to traffic and narrow roadways. Try walking or renting a bike whenever possible. Taking the canal taxis can also be helpful depending on weather.
  • We are foodie travelers, but apart from craft beer, cheese and canabis, there is not much to blow your mind. But while you are here, definitely try a loaded Stroopwafel and a Dutch favorite Rookworst.
  • By the North Sea, the summers can be chilly sometimes, so pack a light jacket. It also apparently rains intermittently all year. May be buy an umbrella with the XXX sign 🙂

 

Roman Forum

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Back to Rome

Ever experienced the mystic romance of walking down ancient streets while admiring grandiose facades of 2000 year old buildings? If not, a stroll down the alleys in Roman Forum (Fora Romano) is tailor-made for you. From the remnants of the ancient buildings, visualize an established society with its courthouses, market place and religious hubs with the Colosseum in the backdrop.

Suggested Time Spent: 2-3 Hours     |     Admission: € 12 for Adults   |    Hours: 9AM – 7PM

As your journey to probably the oldest ruins in the city, begin walking west from Forum of Nerva on via dei Fori Imperialli. Looking east, you should be able to see a portion of the Colosseum. Even before you enter the Roman Forum, try taking a walk along the street with your view of the Foro di Nerva to the right. Walk straight up west towards the Campidoglio.

It is apt that diving into the ancient stories begin from the solemn Capitol, the acropolis of the ancient Rome. Up the stairs from the street level, you will enter the Piazza di Michaelangelo and a view of the equestrian statue of Emperor Marcus Aurelius. The capitol building was actually used as a prison in the middle ages, but in 1500’s, Pope Paull III commissioned Michaelangelo to build the structure. Three palaces with very identical facades around the piazza (Palazzo Senatario, Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori mark the boundaries. Be sure to check out the balustrades with statues placed over the cornices all around.

Walk to the left of the twin statues (8 o’clock from the statue of Marcus Aurelis), for a view of the Roman forum from a higher vantage point in the Palatine Hill. From here you can see most of the major spots within and outside the Roman Forum including the Temple of Saturn, Foro di Cesar, Septimius Severus arch, etc. Numerous photos later, trace back the path to the street level and walk back to the entrance of Roman Forum.

Roman Forum

This was the center of ancient Rome; it was the hub of political, commercial and religious activities back then. Take a right after entering the forum, and walk to the archaic black stone (Lapis Niger), the arch of Settimus Severius (built 203 A.D.). Like many others built in this era, this arch was to commemorate his win in the Parthians war. Check out the details in the outer flanks of the arch, possibly some narrative of the victorious but the artistry is phenomenal. Towards the foot of the capitoline hills, the remains of the Temple of Saturn stand upright. It was used to keep public treasury.

Looking away from the arch of Settimus Severius, on the left sits the most important building of that time, the Curia or the senate. It was the political center of ancient Rome. Next to the Curia, is the oldest Basilica (Basilica Emilia) of which only a few relics remain. From the arch, walk south towards the Temple of Antonius and Faustina which is one of the most preserved buildings. This was built in 141 A.D. in memory of Antonius’ wife, is now converted to a church. Placed on a high podium, the facade and the bronze door is one of the key marvels in the Roman Forum.

On the right you will find the remaining three columns of the Temple of Castor and Pollux. It was erected to commemorate the twin brothers’ key contributions in defeating the Etruscans and Latins. At the south end of the forum, closest to the Colosseum, you will find the simpler but elegant Arch of Titus, built in 81 A.D. Look underneath the arch for splendid relief showing the processing of bringing the spoils from Jerusalem.

Tips

  • Although not as busy as the Colosseum, it is better to buy tickets online (combo of Roman Forum and Colosseum) to save time. There are discounted tickets and free entrance on the first Sunday of a month. Check out the details here.
  • Guided tours are available, and are recommended as there are virtually no signage, especially in English. Smartphone apps like eTips can also be handy. We did not take a guide but followed the smartphone app guide; much cheaper but obviously not as entertaining as a human guide.
  • Take time to learn a little bit about the forum and its buildings lest it becomes boring to walk around the ruins.
  • If you are using a smartphone map, use the bolded location names in this page to navigate easily from point to point.

Spanish Steps in Piazza di Spagna

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Back to Rome

Remember Gregory Peck and Audrey Hepburn walking down the long set of steps with a Church with twin towers in Roman Holiday from the black and white cinema era? Those are the Spanish Steps. From the vantage point on Piazza di Spagna, a remarkable Church, sets of steps and a fountain creates the beautiful facade. A number of other famous work in pop culture including music videos and movies have been set with the iconic steps in the background.

The unusual boat shaped fountain (17th century) at the bottom of the steps, designed by Pietro Bernini, the father of the more famous Gian Lorenzo Bernini, sits in the middle of Piazza di Spagna. Looking up, the double domed Church, named Trinita dei Monti, houses many chapels dedicated to famous noble families. In order to connect the Bourbon Spanish embassy and the Trinita dei Monti in the higher level with the Holy See in Palazzo Monaldeschi at the Piazza di Spagna level, the unique steps were built by architect Francesco De Santis. A wonderful Baroque creation, it has a set of ramps with equal number of steps in each.

From the top of the steps, you can get a picturesque view of the square below with the characteristically similar buildings on either sides of the narrow alleys. On any given evening, while the warm glow of the setting sun adorn the top of the Church, finding a place to sit on the stairs could be a challenge.

Tips

  • For best photo opportunities of this marvel, plan to arrive early in the morning or late in the night.
  • Due to the large number of tourists here, pickpockets and petty thieves swarm this area. Be careful to not pay attention to your belongings while you admire the marvels through your eyes and the lens.
  • Before getting to sit on the steps with your group or by yourself, do not forget to get a coffee from the 18th century coffee-shop Caffe Greco.
  • Stop to admire the street performers playing a classic tune in their violins and flutes. Don’t forget to tip.
  • Last but not the least, if you are a fan, feel free to check out the designer shops in the area. Most recognizable names in the upscale fashion industry have a footprint here.

Rome: A Historical Perspective

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Back to Rome

“Rome wasn’t built in a day”. Literally!  If you browse through thousands of Roman history books and a vast ocean of documented literature, you will find a city that went through ups and downs, a society that saw more change than any other comparable one, empires and republics reaching their zeniths only to be drawn to ashes. Strolls around the modern metropolis of Rome would paint the same picture. To the more inspired, you can hear hoofs of Cesar’s horses on cobblestone roads, or clanging of swords in the Colosseum, or whispers of common folk in the Roman Forum.

Early Days

Legend has it, that the twin brothers Romulus and Remus, raised by a she-wolf founded

Romulus

Romulus and Remus, raised by a she-wolf

the city. Documented history of the city goes back about three thousand years to 750 B.C. when it was governed by seven kings. Kingdoms by Romans, Sabines and their struggle with the outsider Etruscans, followed by a Republican Rome established the foundation of the Roman empire. After Julius Cesar’s influential yet controversial reign in the 100’s B.C., Augustus, the emperor took reign of the empire and it grew substantially. Art, culture, military and societal prowess helped Rome become the ominous superpower in the entire Western world. Rome saw a steep decline during the first half of the first millennium due primarily to spread of Christianity and ignoble emperors like Nero, Caligula, Claudius. A weakened Rome saw barbarian attacks, mainly by Attila the Hun, and rise of the Byzantine empire.

Walk through history

Although somewhat isolated, the ruins in the center of the city, especially in Roman Forum, contains some of the key artifacts that helps to revisit the old days. From sixth century B.C. to the Byzantine age, the lives of the Romans including political, cultural and social centers of ancient Rome are depicted here. Due to absence of any signage or relevant narration, it is close to impossible for a casual tourist to fathom the significance of the ruins. From what is left of the temples of Saturn, Vesta, Antinius and Faustina, in Roman Forum, and others (especially Imperial Forum, Forum of Augustus and Forum of Caesar), if coupled with appropriate historical anecdotes, one could reconstruct the historical timelines with relative ease.

Arches, that are signatures of Roman architecture primarily erected to celebrate major victories, were built during this time. Arches of Constantine (next to the Colosseum), Settimus Severius (in Roman Forum) and Arch of Titus (in the Imperial Forum) are some of the most remarkable ones. Read about the above here.

 

Medieval Times

Establishing Christianity as the only religion of the country, in the Constantine era, united the country, albeit conceding some of the ruling powers to the papacy. It became the ‘Holy Roman Empire’ under the pope-installed emperor Charlemagne in the 800’s A.D. Following 500 years saw a ceaseless struggle between the papacy and feudal nobles. It was during these years, that Roman art and architecture reached their pinnacles, albeit driven by political agenda. Pristine artistry by Michaelangelo, Bernini, Raphael and Cellini still inspire awe; but the underlying propaganda to establish Church’s dominance shows the depth of the power struggle during the protestant revolution.

Walk through history

Politically treacherous times and multiple barbarian invasions, likely would have hindered construction of significant monuments during the early years of the middle ages. Rise of Christianity influenced establishment of churches and cathedrals like Trinita dei Monti (above the renowned Spanish Steps). The Capitol was also established during this time, although the main square (Square of Michaelangelo) was built much later. The Piazza’s built during the ancient times, also saw some change with Churches, Fountains and Obelisks being put in to commemorate victories or events. Each of the Piazzas (e.g. Piazza Navona, Piazza del Popolo, Piazza di Spagna, Piazza Venezia) have their own history and significance beyond their picturesque facade. But among all the sites, Pantheon, due to its usage over the ages, holds its antiquity and is probably the most important. It holds history of old pagans, translated into a church and holds plethora of tombs.

Modern Times

Modern times beginning in the eighteenth century saw the rise of the state again with Fascism taking over in the early 20th century. Establishment of the Vatican City, a walled sovereign country within the city boundaries of Rome, in 1929 through the Lateran treaty, ended the cold war between the papacy and the state. Post World War II saw mastery of Italian art take shape of cinema, the age of “La Dolce Vitta” by Fellini.

Modern day Roma is a progressive metropolis with inhabitants from all around the globe with a juxtaposition of cultures and modern amenities. On one hand, Vatican City displays the jewels of renaissance art work at the helm of Christianity, and on the other hand you can find niche designer brands like Gucci, Ferregamo and like in the Piazza de Spagna next to the Spanish steps.

Even in the modern day, the influence of the city cannot be ignored, be it from the center of the Roman Empire, to the architectural ingenuity, and being the bedrock of Christianity. As described elsewhere in this website, no matter whether you are a history buff or a casual explorer, take time to walk the ruins and understand the relevance. Your high-school history lessons on Roman history will not appear as unremarkable as it did before. Enjoy your Roman holiday!

Colosseum

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Back to Rome

As documented and indicated by ancient authors, was the Colosseum in Rome indeed a ‘death trap’? Did the ancient Romans construct an elaborate amphitheater to quench their blood thirst? An enormous structure in the center of the city holding 80,000 people really witnessed fights between humans and exotic animals? Or is it just Hollywood effects, depicted in the famous movie Gladiator? Now a popular tourist destination, we entered to experience the mythical structure and find our own clues to demystify some of the historical anecdotes.

Suggested Time Spent: 2-3 Hours     |     Admission: € 12 for Adults   |    Hours: 9AM – 7PM (More information here)

History Lesson

Before we jump into deciphering the mysteries, let’s paint the picture from the structural perspectives. A large amphitheater constructed by the Flavian dynasty (Vespasian, Titus and Dominitan) around 70-80 A.D., on land acquired by Nero after the Great Fire of Rome in 64 A.D. It is believed that it was financed by the spoils of the Jewish Temple in Jerusalem. While there are variations in opinions from historians, the arena (larger than two American Football fields) was used for staging Gladiator fights, animal fights, drama, and believe it or not, naval battles. Some artifacts suggest crucifixions, courthouse and public executions were also part of the usage.

Over the ages, through medieval and modern times, there have been evidences of this being used as a cemetery, church, even bull fight arena under various rulers. But even after deep dive investigations of the ruins, underground tunnel networks, re-engineered capstones by forensic scientists, archaeologists and engineers around the world, instances of blood-baths have not been proven as such. Most evidences of Gladiatorial fights with wild beasts and fights till death are merely anecdotal till date.

Architecture

The columns and arches found in the Colosseum are signature Roman architecture along with underground tunnel network that show Greek influence. A perfect elliptical shape (188m x 150m) contrary to much easier circular construction  is proof of engineering ingenuity of that time. 80 arches, three tiers to hold up to 80,000 spectators, 8 entrances and an exterior covered by travertine points to the design and planning repertoire of the ancient Romans. The design of a two story basement or hypogeum (now visible clearly from all levels inside) to hold Gladiators and animals along with the tunnels to transport water, food and the participants from outside the arena can compete even with modern day architectural feats.

Things to know before you go

  • Like most of the other Roman sites, Colosseum does not have good signage and detailed history inside it. Consider revving up your history lessons from this blog or elsewhere in order to make your trip remarkable.
    • There are smartphone apps (e.g. eTips) that have good commentary on Colosseum, that you can use as a companion.
    • Guided tours are available, but since the place can get extremely crowded, it is hard to follow along. We do not recommend it.
  • In summer, thousands of tourists flock this site, so long lines are inevitable. Consider buying  a ticket online.
    • Better yet, buy the combo ticket from Roman Forum (Fora Romano) across the street. Lines in Colosseum are much longer than at Roman Forum. Check updates on hours and tickets from the official site here.
  • The Colosseum has several steep steps to get to the audience levels three stories up. But it is surprisingly accessible by an elevator for elderly or disabled.

Want to learn more on whether Colosseum was indeed a killing machine? Check out these articles/blogs (NYTimes, BBC Story) and YouTube documentaries (Ancient History, Gladiator Story) before you go. But regardless of your thought process, enjoy the grandeur and significance of this ancient engineering marvel while you are there.

Please leave a comment or ask questions if you are interested to learn more.

 

Mammoth Cave National Park

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Back to USA

While this gem of a site may receive quite a few uninteresting reviews from average tourists, for the science enthusiast and hardcore geologists, this cave system presents a plethora of opportunities to dive deep into the dark and virgin territories under the Earth’s surface, literally. With close to 400 miles of underground cave system, this is the world’s longest caves, and hides a ton of history, even before 1700’s when the caves were discovered by Europeans.

Located between Nashville and Louisville right on interstate 65, it is hard to get to unless you have your own transportation. Suggested time to be spent here is about 4-5 hours. Obviously you cannot navigate through the entire cave system (mind you it has 400 miles of caves), out of which more than 75% is still not ventured out to. You can get a glimpse of the caves without a guide, but for everything else, you’d need a ranger/guide rightfully so.

There are tours offered (Frozen Niagara Tour, Historic Tour) and both take a group of visitors in a line through narrow passages requiring hiking, ducking, swaying. The Frozen Niagara tour takes you through the well lit areas, but in the large dome, they offer to turn off all lights (incl. cellphones) to experience ‘actual’ darkness. This was my favorite part of any cave tour, where you can be sitting in pitch black darkness with zero trace of light emanating from any source. It is simply impossible to recreate that zero-lightness above the surface.

Although it is probably never going to attract a lot of tourists, simply because it tries to keep the ecological balance inside the cave by not modernizing it, thereby making it a sort of ‘dull’. But for someone with some background knowledge about formation of caves and the dynamic eco-system inside them will find the mammoth cave system fascinating. Encourage all the readers to make at least one quick trip if you are passing through or visiting Nashville/Louisville.

Smoky Mountains National Park

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Back to USA

There is not a single good time to go to the Smoky Mountains – fall brings a deluge of color in the slopes, winter shows the snow-capped mountain tops and spring ushers the full bloom of flowers after the snow melts. Located along the Tennessee and North Carolina border, The Great Smoky Mountains are part of the Appalachian Mountains that stretch the entire length of the east coast of USA.

The park gets its name from the ‘smoke’ that appears in the early morning and gets lighter as the day progresses, but keeping a sheet of smoky fog throughout the year on the mountain slopes. The misty and chilly climate of the area paves ground for the flora and fauna in the area.

Thousands of travelers seeking adventure, hiking, and romance flocks to this picturesque mountain ranges every year, around the year. Here are a few highlights of things to do –

  1. Gaitlinburg – At the bottom of the slope before entering the park is this quaint little img_4505town of Gaitlinburg. Some visitors choose to stay here for its proximity to the park and the charm of this town. Strolls around the town during day or night is relaxing and delightful. In the afternoon, enjoy a hot chocolate or cappuccino sitting in a little cafe while you indulge in deep conversations with your travel buddies or just do people-watching, whatever your game. Come night time, especially during holidays, the city structures and sidewalks lit up in bright light fixtures. You can also choose to hit the slopes by going up in the gondola to witness the beauty of the mountains from a nice vantage point.
  2. Smoky Mountains National Park – There are a number of trails and hiking paths to amazing waterfalls through wildflower fields, forests and little streams no one knows leads where. The road leading to the park entrance (US-441) from Gaitlinburg crosses the park and there are clearly marked signs for sights and trails through the road to Cherokee. Some of our favorite POIs on this road are –
    1. Big Witch Gap Overlook – for stunning vistas of the valley img_2403
    2. Cades Cove – historic buildings in the valley surrounded by tall mountains
    3. Cataloochee Overlook – was the home of the Cataloochee tribe and is now one of the eeriest sites in the park
    4. Clingmans Dome – At 6600′ height, this is one of the highest peaks of the Appalachian range. The vista especially in the spring and winter is spectacular with the ice-capped peak and the colorful foliage in the slope.
    5. Elkmont Historic District – is one of the oldest areas in the park which used to be summer time retreat area for the wealthy families in the south.
    6. Gregory Bald – is a scenic point from where you will see the Cades Cove and the mountain to the north.
    7. Heintooga Overlook – is a great spot for sunset. If you have a tripod and a img_2392camera with auto shutter capability, set a timer for taking pictures in a 2 minute interval from 15 minutes before and after sunset. The changing colors of the sky and the foliage in the foreground will make for scintillating snaps.

Other than visiting the visitor center, take a detour to drive on the famous Blue Ridge Parkway going towards Ashville. On the way there are a few spectacular waterfalls (Skinny dip falls, looking glass falls, etc.). In the winter, the drive is adventurous and panoramic.

Hawaii Volcanoes National Park

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Back to Hawaii

Back to Big Island

One of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites, covering over 500 sq. miles of land covered with rock formations and fresh lava flow, Hawaii Volcanoes National Park is a heaven for Geologists. The Mauna Loa and Kilauea volcanoes are the two shining stars in this park that is criss-crossed with trails and paved roads. After entering the park, follow an offline map, or use one of the Driving Tour Smartphone Apps (e.g. Shaka Guide).

For the list of places to cover, refer to Tripadvisor or any public sites including the NPS portal (Click here for a detailed offline printable map).

We thought sharing a little bit of knowledge about Volcanoes and the park might be helpful in your next visit to the park in relating to the concepts much easily. If you are interested in learning about Volcanoes and the formation of Earth, read on.

Written by our resident Geologist co-author, Rupsa

Hawaii Volcanoes: The history and science behind it

All the Hawaiian Islands and Emperor seamount chains are part of a mantle plume system. Mantle plumes or hotspots are nothing but molten rocks (lava) that rise from deep in the earth (mostly mantle) and reaches the surface of the earth through a weak zone (could be some deep fractures). The other common examples of islands created by hotspots are Iceland, Galapagos, etc.

Mantle plumes are stationary and can erupt through hundreds of years to millions of years before going extinct. Hawaiian plume has been erupting for millions of years creating Emperor Seamount chains, followed by Kauai which is the oldest island in Hawaii. As the Pacific plate moved over the plume, it went on to create Oahu, Maui, and the rest of the Hawaiian Islands before creating the Big Island. The hotspot is under Big Island currently. As the rate of plate motion has slowed down over the years, the same part of the plate is over the hotspot for a longer period, creating the largest island in Hawaii.

There are three types of lava flow structures that are most abundant in volcanic islands like Hawaii.

  • Pillow lavas: Pillow lavas are volumetrically the most abundant type commonly found in the underwater seamounts.
  • Pahoehoe lava: If lava cools slowly and does not move too fast it forms smooth ropy lava called pahoehoe. This type of flow forms some of the common features on the surface. Pahoehoe lava is characterized by a smooth, billowy, or ropy surface.Pahoehoe flows tend to be relatively thin, from a few inches to a few feet thick.
  • A’a lava:If lava cools quickly and moves fast it can tear into pieces called A’a.  A’a flow is characterized by a rough, jagged, spinose, and generally crackly surface. A’a lava flows tend to be relatively thick compared to pahoehoe flows. A’a flows, while rocky and sharp on the top, are extremely dense underneath – producing some of the most difficult rocks to cut through. Several hikes in the National Park take you past huge boulders of dense solid A’a. It is easy to compare with Pahoehoe that tends to be in layers.

Pele’s hair and Pele’s tear: Named after the Hawaiian goddess of fire, Pele, these structures form during times of high fire-fountaining. Pele’s hair are thin filaments of stretched out basaltic glass. Pele’s tears or Achneliths are tiny droplets of lava that look like tear-drops.

sulphur-springs

Sulphur Springs abundant with Pele’s hair and tears

Researchers have found that these are formed by the same overall process from the lava fountains, depending on the velocity of the erupting lava. High velocity and strong winds favor formation of Pele’s hair. Sometimes Pele’s tears are found attached at the tips of Pele’s hairs.

Big island has multiple volcanoes both active and dormant. Three major ones are –

  1. Mauna Kea – Dormant Cinder Top Volcano, 4,205m tall. Has a steep and irregular topography compared to other similar volcanoes in the area.
  2. Mauna Loa – Another cinder top volcano at 4,170m tall, it is younger than Mauna Kea, and erupts every few years.  A series of earthquakes beneath Mauna Kea may signal that an eruption could occur within a short time, although it cannot predict the magnitude of eruption.
  3. Kilauea – In the last few years, Kilauea volcano is active and erupting continuously. Before going to Hawaii, do check the current lava flow status here. The recent eruptions are from the Halema’uma’u Crater at its summit and from the Puʻu ʻŌʻō vent in towards the east. Lava flow from Puʻu ʻŌʻō is relatively recent (30 years old) and continues to enter the ocean at Kamokuna. Although surface flows have been common in this eruption, most of the lava from the vent travels concealed in lava

    kulaeau-crater

    Kilauea Crater from Jagger Museum (shot around 5am)

    tubes until it reaches the ocean. A blowout during a 2008 eruption built a lava lake in Halema’uma’u crater, which is a remnant of a past explosion. The lava is in this crater is as light as water. The base level of the crater is unstable to the point that it rises and falls by the minute. The gaping hole through which the eruption is visible, is a direct conduit into Kilauea’s magma reserves. This crater is just a gentle reminder how active and dynamic our mother Earth really is.

The experience of witnessing rock in its bright molten state and watching new land being formed is quite a fascinating experience, if you are lucky enough to witness it. When hot lava enters the water, it bursts into pieces, building new land at the ocean edge from the fragmental material. This pile of rubble is then covered with a veneer of lava flows, forming a “bench”. Initially the bench is weak enough that it can collapse with the smallest disturbance around it. After multiple layers of such deposits and cooling of magma, typically taking several hundred years, once the bench is stable and large enough, a new island is created. After hundreds of years of depositions of lava followed by some tectonic activity (earthquake mostly) those submerged islands rose above the water and resulted in the islands the way we see them in the present. In a nutshell, that is a brief history of the Hawaiian Islands. There are multiple islands like these that are currently submerged under the ocean in the area, and in a few hundred years we will be able to see another island full of volcanic activity, south of the Big Island.

Tips Before Visiting the Park

Although there are clearly marked barriers and signs at sites, there are some common sense warnings that one MUST follow. Read on to find out the science and geology behind those hazards and why it is important to follow them for your own safety.

  • What are the Volcanic Hazards Facing you?
    • Bench collapse can cause a 100-200 feet steep drop into unknown craters
    • Rock jets & littoral fountains hurl hot lava that erratically gets sprayed
    • Steam blasts toss rocks
    • Acid fumes (Sulphur di oxide, carbon monoxide) and glass particles can irritate eyes and lungs causing suffocation and choking
    • Scalding waves burn where lava meets ocean
  • Recommendations:
    • Do not stand near the steep cliffs. This land is extremely weak and breaks off frequently; it is impossible to climb up from the crater or ocean vertically.
    • Do not go on the rocks close to a volcanic eruption. Bench collapses have killed people.
    • Do not go near the water as it can be boiling hot and likely contains sulphur fumes.
    • Move inland quickly if you hear unusual noises.
    • Please be prepared for personal hazards especially when hiking through the enormous lava fields:
      • Most injuries are not directly due to the eruption. Intense sunlight and high temperatures can lead to dehydration, heat exhaustion, or sunstroke. Air temperatures near lava flows can exceed 120°F (49°C), depending on cloud cover and wind conditions.
      • At higher elevations, wind and rain can lead to hypothermia (low body temperature). Carry sunscreen and a hat, and drink more water than you think you need.
      • Injuries from a fall are common. It is easy to break through a thin, overhanging crust of lava or trip on a crack and fall on the abrasive, glassy surface. U.S. Geological Survey (USGS) scientists always wear long pants, sturdy boots, and sometimes gloves when working near the flows. Never shorts and flip-flops!
      • Before visiting the lava field, check with Park Rangers for current conditions and for the best approach route. Park Rangers do not recommend that you attempt the hike to the coast if you are unprepared or uninformed. The area is remote, has no shade or water source, and is seldom patrolled. Also, most areas in the park has no cellphone reception.

If you are interested to find out more about Hawaiian Volcanoes there are plethora of information in the internet. Some of the sites that I personally like are:

  • USGS website in general. Their live webcam of Kilauea is quite fascinating.
  • Universities often organize field trips to the Hawaiian Volcanoes and their reports are usually easy to follow and contains lots of authentic interesting information. One of such link is here

Because of their altitude, the summits are covered in snow in winter and are usually cold and windy in the rest of the year. So, if you plan to go for star gazing, sunset viewing at the summit, or hiking up to the visitors’ center (beyond which tourists are not allowed to drive on their own) please be prepared with warm clothes unless you are used to the Polar weather!! If you go for star gazing and sunset viewing (highly recommended) with a tour company (read our experience), they usually provide parkas. However, if you are like me to whom anything below 55˚F (10˚C) is freezing please carry a pair of gloves, and wear long pants (preferably wind buster), and close toed comfort shoes are also highly recommended.

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