Machu Picchu – The Lost Incan City

Was it a citadel, a summer get-away for the Inca Emperors or was it a fortress protecting something stunningly valuable? While archaeologists and historians search for answers, millions of tourists flock to the mystical paradise of Machu Picchu to soak in the mysteries, explore the engineering feats of the Incas and glide (metaphorically) over breath-taking panoramas atop the mountains!

Located at about 2,800m atop the Machu Picchu mountain, there are many

Iconic view of Machu Picchu

Iconic view of Machu Picchu

sectors in the citadel, including the temples, streets, plazas and agricultural terraces (Read details here). The structural features and genius engineering concepts put to work half a century ago, coupled with the mysteries and myths of the purpose of the architecture qualifies it to be one of the new wonders of the world. UNESCO rightfully has recognized it as one of the Heritage Sites, and is constantly working on ensuring the sustainability around it.

A Brief History of Machu Picchu and the Incas

Classic civilizations from pre-historic era have always spurred up close to water bodies, such as the Egyptian civilization by the mighty river Nile, Indus valley civilization by river Sindh, to name a few. Aztec and Mayan civilizations of central and south America, also flourished near water bodies. A relatively new Inca civilization, dating back to the fifteenth century, thrived in the Andean highlands, before Spanish conquests in the 1530’s. The Inca empire stretched from present day Argentina to southern Colombia, but did only managed to reign for less than a century.

How the Inca developed cutting edge engineering, architectural and agricultural feats, without use of wheels, iron works, draft animals and currency, gives rise to a plethora of questions. Researchers did not even find an established writing system, which spawns the mysticism around the Inca empire and its achievements.

While present day Cusco (Qosco in ancient Incan tongue) was the capital of the empire, Machu Picchu remains to be the most iconic Inca archaeological site. Even though no concrete evidence of the actual purpose of the site is available till date, the intricate designs of the roads, irrigation systems, structures, temples and agricultural areas at such a remote location, suggest it was built for something worthy of protection.

Since no evidence of iron-works can be found in the site, we have to assume that the Inca mastered the art of stone masonry. Large blocks of uneven stones cut and placed to hold large structures in place without mortars, in an earthquake prone region, make modern day engineers envious.

How to get to Machu Picchu?

Machu Picchu is located at a remote location atop the enormous Machu Picchu mountain. The iconic site is extremely controlled to traffic, and is only accessible in a couple of different ways, albeit some variations can be made available. Train, bus, hikes or a combination of the three, depending on time and effort, are required to get to the Machu Picchu ruins. See details of transportation options below.

What is in Machu Picchu?

As the most recognizable symbol of the classic Inca empire, Machu Picchu holds a number of mysteries that have yet to be answered. Surrounded by the hill of Huyana Picchu, the massive mountain of Machu Picchu and the rushing Urubamba river, the ruins contain clues to unearth the reasons for its mere existence and glimpses of the civilization.

Notable structures and sectors:

  • Agricultural Sector: Built in the southern slopes of the complex up to the Intipuncu (sun gate), the incredible series of terraces facing the rising sun were used for agriculture around the year. Scientists have found clues that the soil and the architecture helped the Inca sow a variety of seasonal produce to secure food for the inhabitants. The construction likely had another purpose that establishes the engineering genius of the Inca – to stabilize the complex in an earthquake prone zone.
  • Urban Sector: The central plaza separates the upper and lower sections of the urban sector. The configuration of these areas, surrounded by the drainage channel (or the moat) and access gate highlights the differences in both the inhabitants of these two regions and the purpose. The Sun Gate (Intipuncu) acts as the regal gate controlling the access to the plaza from the classic Inca Highway (now known as the Inca Trail). Although there are still variations among the archaeologists about the purpose of this plaza, ranging from being a religious center to a fortress, there are clues in the small rooms with tiny holes indicating that these may have been used to hold prisoners.
    • Various structures are apparent in either section of the urban sector. Storehouses located at the right after passing the entrance gate, having small (12’x12′) rooms with tiny holes likely to allow sunlight, may have been used for storing grain or as workshops. Royal palace can be seen from afar that is unique in its fine stonework and arrangement of chambers around a beautiful private patio with a view of the central plaza.
    • Walking up the stairs from the central plaza, is the Sacred Plaza, where the Temple of the Three Windows and the Temple of the Altar can be found. The trapezoidal windows facing the rising sun, and the facade facing the central plaza where the public ceremonies were held.
  • The Intihuatana: It is the pyramidal structure at the top of the elevated ground, and is shaped like a truncated pyramid. This can potentially be used as an observatory, and may have been used like a sundial. Precise function of this structure, as of the others, remain a mystery, but the elevated location can also mean a way to locate enemies coming from afar through the river valley.
  • Temple of the Condor: Located at the lowest sector of the site, this has a unique feature that calls for a bit of explanation. V shaped rock was carved to appear like a flying condor. The grandeur design with intricate rock carvings to display the widespread wingspan and the collar around the bird’s neck makes an incredible view. Artifacts discovered around it suggest it may be used for worshiping the magnificent Andean Condor, and the surrounding cells used for keeping the most important mummies.
  • Temple of the Mortars: An iconic feature of the site is the Mortars sector, which can be entered through a double jamb doorway implying the significance of the area. Surrounding this area, are the storehouses with tiny windows facing the east side. Food grains and other essentials were likely stored here, depicted by the clear chambers and duct-like systems for airflow.

Castel Sant’Angelo

Back to Rome

On the western bank of the River Tiber, a prominent round structure, the Sant’Angelo castle can be seen from a distance. It was built by Emperor Hadrian as a mausoleum for himself in 130 A.D. As you enter through the courtyard, you can see the double line of windows sculpted by Michaelangelo. There are many rooms in the castle, but most people without a bit of background would find them fairly monotonous. If you have read Dan Brown’s Angels and Demons, you can find the castle courtyard and the prison featured in the novel.


Suggested Time Spent: 1 Hour     |     Admission: €14 for Adults   |    Hours: 9AM – 7:30PM (More details here)


Best selling point of the Castle though from a photo opportunity perspective is the terrace from where a panoramic vista of Rome including the Vatican City can be enjoyed. We recommend visiting the Castle in the afternoon after the trip to the Vatican city as you are in the neighborhood of Prati. You can cross the bridge, Ponte Sant’Angelo, built in 2nd century A.D. to reach the other side in the quaint neighborhood of Rione v Monti.

The bridge itself is full of street vendors trying to sell knock-off handbags and souvenirs; we highly recommend swaying away and focus on the views instead. Ten angels, designed by Bernini in the 17th Century, will welcome you to either side.

Trevi Fountain

Back to Rome

Rome is home to a number of iconic fountains and some more not-as-exuberant ones around the city. In some, water sprouts out from a Lion’s mouth, stone masks in others. But in terms of grandeur, nothing beats the Trevi; a brilliant Baroque creation, in an elaborate display of sculptures, headed by the chariot of Neptune shaped like a shell, drawn by sea horses and led by tritons.


Suggested Time Spent: <1 Hour     |     Admission: Free   |    Hours: All day, but lights turned off at night


The original plan of the design originates from the 16th century by Bernini, but political troubles pushed back the commissioning of the construction to 18th century. Completed by Nicola Salvi in the 18th century, the water comes from the aqueduct of Acqua Virgo, it likely gets its name from the ‘junction of three roads’. The statues are carved from Carrara marbles and the facade is built from travertine limestone.

As in other Baroque creations, the facade and the statues in the Trevi carries symbolic significance. The statue of Oceanus, the horses depicting the mood of the sea, tritons bringing joy and peace to the earth, and the statues of health, abundance can all be found upon close inspection in this elaborate construction.

Above all the art and history, as legend has it, you should also throw a coin with your right hand over your left shoulder while facing back to the fountain. Many good things can happen including a second visit to Rome, falling in love with a Roman, even marrying one. Pick your poison. Before signing off, I’d ask you – can you estimate the annual monetary value of all the coins thrown in the water of Trevi Fountain? Leave the calculation framework in the comments.

Tips

  • Visit once during the day and once during night. The colors are spectacular at night. Although after 10pm, the lights are turned off in summer.
  • For a photo op without the crowds, after sunrise, around 8 am is a good time.
  • For several reasons, Trevi is one of the worst spots for losing valuables and belongings. Watch your back and bags. One more reason to avoid the crowded times.

    La Dolce Vita in Trevi

    Anita Ekberg in Fellini’s La Dolce Vita

  • Fun fact – many Italians and international cinema critics remember La Dolce Vita, where Anita Ekberg bathes in the Trevi fountain. Don’t think it is allowed anymore, but food for thought.

Piazza Navona

Back to Rome

An incredible jewel in the Roman Baroque scene, Piazza Navona is one of the most visited tourist attractions in Rome. Travelers, street vendors, and petty thieves flock to this wide piazza almost the entire day. But we found this pleace to quiet down after 8pm, when you can take a breather by one of the fountain side or on the benches in the perimeter while sipping an after dinner espresso.


Suggested Time Spent: 1 Hour     |     Admission: Free   |    Hours: All day, but churches are closed after midnight


What used to be an arena for naval warfare and athletic competitions, Piazza Navona hosts two of the greatest Baroque geniuses – Gian Lorenzo Bernini and Francesco Borromini. Bernini created the fountain of the rivers (Ganges, Nile, Danube and Plate) with the obelisk at the center stage; Borromini designed the Church of Sant’Agnese in Agone. There are two other fountains – Neptune and Moro. Around the square, there are splendid palaces, library, and a Church (Church of Nostra Signora) from the 15th century.

Around the square, there are several other masterpieces, including the Church of Saint Luigi dei Francesi which has canvasses by Caravaggio from 16th century. In a walk from Pantheon to Piazza Navona, this is hard to miss. The side streets to the east and west of the piazza are shoppers paradise, although we have found these locations not optimum for getting the best prices. Read more about shopping here.

Piazza del Popolo

Back to Rome

The people’s square, the Piazza del Popolo with the obelisk at its center and two identical churches, is one of our favorite places to have casual meals and relax in Rome. Structurally, the piazza sits at the intersection of three streets, via del Babuino, via di Ripetta and via del Corso. Sitting at one of the steps or the balls in the perimeter, enjoy the timeless view of the cathedrals.

The obelisk was erected in 1589 by Pope Sixtus V, and the two churches Santa Maria di Montesanto and Santa Maria dei Miracoli were completed in the years after. Although both look identical, dome of one of them is actually oval in order to fit in the asymetric space.

The best view of the square, however, is from the gardens of the Pincio above the piazza. It is easier to access the terrace (Terraza del Pincio) from the Park villa Borghese. After you visit the Borghese Gardens and Borghese Art Gallery, take an afternoon walk through the park. It is a popular place for kids, evening walkers and even runners. (Read more on Borghese Gallery and Park here). One of the best sunset views with Piazza del Popolo can be found from the Pincio Terrace.

View of Piazza del Popolo from Pincio Gardens

Look down into the Piazza del Popolo from Pincio Gardens

Doka Coffee and Sarchi

Back to Costa Rica Itinerary

We bought a package tour from anywherecostarica.com that covered Poas, Doka, and Sarchi. It was an all day tour for about ~$80 pp. They picked us up around 8am from our hotel and dropped us back around 4:30pm.
After visiting Poas, we went to the Doka coffee estate. We stopped at a plantation where we could taste the coffee fruits, get information about how they pick the beans. You can speak with the workers there too for an intimate experience. Knowledge of the guide also enhances the experience. We had Alberto as our guide (from AnywhereCostaRica), and he was pretty knowledgable it seemed.
We then headed out to the processing plant where we had a buffet lunch. We could taste a few varieties of coffee. They showed the various stages of the coffee processing from the raw fruits until roasting. We got to see and learn how to roast coffee beans for flavor and caffeine content.
After lunch, we explored the butterfly garden in the property which was not quite well maintained but a nice stroll.

In a combo tour of Poas, Doka and Sarchi, this was our last stop. The Ox-cart factory and the excellent artsy pieces were amazing. We even spoke with the artists who make the colorful oxcart parts to learn about the intricacies.
The gift shop had a lot of Costa Rican souvenirs but was exceedingly pricey. For souvenirs, go to the market in Downtown San Jose, and you can find good bargains there.

In the central park in Sarchi, you cannot miss this large colorful Ox Cart. Back in the days when Ox carts were the primary means of transportation of people and goods, Costa Ricans made these colorful carts. This one, La Carreta is a beautiful piece of historical artifact that can have you awestruck. But lack of descriptions etc., near the piece makes it hard for a casual tourist to understand the significance.

Overall, I would not go there as a day trip, but as a combo tour, worth going.

Overall, coffee production is not quite high tech or complex and can be seen elsewhere too. But as a combo Tour with Poas and Sarchi, totally worth the time and money.

Chichen Itza and the Cenotes

Chichen Itza

Pyramid of Kukulcan (El Castillo)

May 2014

Day two took us to the much awaited visit to the Mayan civilization nested inland, 200km from Cancun. A $79 per person bus tour was organized from the Hotel Concierge, that picked us up by 7:30am. Breakfast, drinks, and lunch was included, along with narratives on the history and backgrounds of the Mayan people. If required, we also gathered a nice map for the site, which is regarded as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. Until a few years back, tourists could climb up the stairs of the mesoamerican pyramids, but due to vandalism and to protect the ancient wonder, tourists are no longer permitted to climb.

Facts:
  • In Mayan, Cancun (Kaan Kun) means ‘Nest of the Serpent’. Watch out for the Iguanas in all parts of the area.
  • Chichen means the mouth of the well. Itz is the high priest.
  • About 800,000 people still speak the Mayan language, albeit the written language is not practiced anymore, possibly due to the large number of characters and complexity of the structures.
  • Apart from the Cusco area in Mexico, Mayans still reside in Belize, El Salvador, Guatemala.
  • Mayans followed the Venus cycle for the famous (or infamous) Mayan Calendar. The calendar counts number of days from the start of the cycle, which is when the Earth, the Sun, and the Venus align. This is the creation date.
  • Mayan Calendar: Two wheels rotating in opposite directions measure the number of days. The best way to display the LC (long count) day is: Baktun.Katun.Tun.Uinal.Kin. Details of the format can be found here.

In the entire tour, taking 3 hours, we came to know several interesting things about the area. That the area is covered with limestone, made the rivers to run underwater, and therefore provided unlimited filtered water to the inhabitants of the village. The Chichens were smart people, and had placed great values on family, GOD, and the tribe they belonged to. Multiple wars were fought in the days to gain power. They were engineers too. Built straight roads to the ocean, used zero, erected hollow pyramids, and created scientifically designed structures that marked the four seasons based on the Earth’s orbital cycles. By far the most important structure in the area is the Pyramid of Kukulcan (deity of serpent). The pyramid has staircases, designed in a way to make it look like two snakes winding up to the top, with their heads in the ground level. During the equinoxes, the shadows create the visual effect of the deity whirling down the staircase. Interesting: The four staircases have 91 steps, and the final step on the top adds up to the number of days in a solar calendar, 365 days.

El Caracol
Great Ball Court

Other structures we visited were the Great ball court (where the game of Pok ta Pok was played during specific events), the Sacred Wall, El Caracol (the observatory of the Mayans), Chac Mool (the lying human statue), and El Mercado (the market). The structures were all painted in different colors, and over the years, the colors have faded but the rocks still managed to exist even after 1000 years of existence. In essence the Mayans somehow reminded us of the Egyptian and Indus civilizations, albeit without any chance of communication among them. Similarities in the pyramid structure, reliance on the high priests on horoscopes and decisions, and worshiping of deities for food and income would run a shiver if thought carefully.

El Mercado
The Sacred Wall
Chac Mool

After the tour, we were taken to a so called ‘Co-Operative’ for Mayan people where we had a delicious Mexican and Yucatan style lunch buffet accessorized with local music and dancers. But the store up front, had mass produced items at an exceedingly steep price. Therefore, we took the less beaten path, and crossed the street to find a little mom-and-pop shop that had equally good souvenirs. A little bit of haggling for price, with the Calcutta trained shopper, yielded great results. 🙂

Ik Kil Cenote

 

Cenotes

The tour stopped for a little bit at one of the largest Cenotes (Sink Hole). The Ik Kil Cenote was a good place to be in a hot summer day. With a depth of about 140 feet, one can jump from different heights into the crystal clear water. There are underground tunnels underneath the surface of the water which is about 80 feet from the ground level. For the less adventurous ones, life vests are available for $3, and for the far less adventurous ones, the 80 step staircase would take you to the water level, where you can feel the water and soak the toes. The return phase of the trip was fun with unlimited supply of cerveza, and tequilla shots. Interesting way of getting people to slumber.