Category: Environment

Chasing Fall Foliage – VT 100

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Back to Road Trippin’

“Two roads diverged in a wood.. I took the one less traveled by..”. This post is neither about taking the untested path to glory nor an analysis of the misunderstood poem “The Road Not Taken”. So why the reference? It’s because the poet called Vermont his home for the most part of his life, and that there are great wilderness trails here to lose track of time and find your beautiful destination in a desolate cliff.

For this coverage of one of the most beautiful road trips in the country, we chose the peak fall foliage time in October to travel a good part of the scenic VT-100 state road. As part of the journey, we will pass scenic churches peeking out of colorful foliage, charming towns and cute country stores.

Suggested Duration: 1-2 days       Time: Fall/Summer       Start at: Wilmington, VT or Jeffersonville, VT

Itinerary

While you can begin the journey at either the north or south end (Jeffersonville or Wilmington), we started the 2 day trip from the north. We will point out the key points of interest, and interesting by-ways. Find a downloadable map of the route below.

Before we get into the sites, wanted to first cover the coveted Covered Bridges of Vermont. There are about 100 of them still remaining, and each has a character that is worth visiting. Most of them were built to carry people, animals and horse-drawn carriages across rivers and forks. The truss system that supports the weight of the bridge is actually above the bridge instead of traditionally below in other bridges. This helps the woodwork to sustain winter storms, spring thaw, and flooding river waters. All covered bridges are now protected by law. We will point out the noteworthy bridges below, but sample a few from the following – Chamberlin Mill, Gates Farm, Seribner, Poland, Power House, Grist Mill and Red Covered Bridge.

  1. We begin at the town of Cambridge, VT to take Vermont’s main street, the VT-100 Southbound towards Smuggler’s Notch. Fill up your appetite and caffeine requirement in the artistry town of Jeffersonville.
  2. Gristmill covered bridge with its truss system is up ahead within the first few miles.
  3. Smugglers Notch resort is a nice getaway in summer and a popular ski resort. The name Smugglers Notch probably comes from the fact that during the prohibition era when trade with Canada were restricted, some of the caves here were used by smugglers to carry goods and alcohol across the border.
  4. Smugglers Notch Pass is one of the best scenic mountain passes. Through narrow one lane turns, in the fall and summer, this roadway proves to be extremely photogenic. It is closed to automobiles in the winter, but cross country skiing and snow mobiles frequent the pass for an incredible experience. Feel free to park on the side and take a trail up the hill through the caves. Not a difficult climb, but descend very carefully due to the damp rocks.
  5. Stowe Resort area is a nice spot to park the car and take a gondola ride up to the higher vantage point. If schedule permits, grab a meal here as well with fine dining options. From the parking lot, in the fall you can see snow covered higher altitudes amalgamating with the exuberant fall foliage in the lower altitudes. If you are lucky, cloud and fog cover may provide an incredible view up top.
  6. About 20 minute drive in a side road to the Mt. Mansfield (4,300′) summit through the winding Toll Road for incredible views of the Lake Champlain. Only 1/4th mile is paved, so a AWD car is better suited, but regardless a great experience.
  7. Apart from maple syrup, Vermont is also known for its dairy products. Vermont has a great cheese scene, plus the famous Ben and Jerry’s ice cream factory. The most visited attractions make it a busy place. Kids would love the sampling of 53 flavors. The flavor graveyard is an interesting place to learn about the flavors that did not make it to the market!
  8. Vermont is also known for its apples and fresh pressed ciders. A great place to try sweet ciders, both hot and cold, and fermented hard ciders, and famous apple cider donuts in Cold Hollow Cider. Stop for a bit in the Cabot Annex for some delicious cheese and lake Champlain chocolates for a tasty stop.
  9. Past Waterbury, you will be able to spot the 4000 ft. high Camel’s Hump peak in front of you. Mad River will be accompany you throughout the journey. Notice that the river flows north to drain into the Lake Champlain. Several byways like 100A and 100B, will take you to several non-touristy spots along the way to learn a bit more of Vermont. We will press on 100S.
  10. Stop for the next Covered Bridge at the Village Covered Bridge which allows car traffic, but take the walkway to the other side for a nice peek at the river underneath.
  11. For sweeping views of the valley, take the Appalacian Gap road. Takes about 30 minutes round trip through the winding but fun road. Another optional side trip is on the Lincoln Gap road for a unobstructed views of the western sides of the Green Mountains and upstate New York.
  12. A quirky little town of Warren is an interesting side trip, even if you do not stop as it will bring you back to Rt-100.
  13. A must-see stop is the Moss Glen Falls, even if it is just 35 foot fall. A quick stop at the pull out and a 5 minute walk to the falls and the pool will provide great photo ops.
  14. Next part of the road, you will drive along the Green Mountain National Forest having multiple trails, campgrounds, ski tracks and recreational areas. Middlebury Gap Road (Rt-125) is your ‘path less taken’. It gives access to a special place – Robert Frost Interpretive Trail (~1 mile long).
  15. Thundering Brook Falls on River Road is another nice stop to make. If you drive past the waterfalls south towards the Rt-100, you will pass by a less traveled but pristine water body called the Kent Pond. The white unpaved road along the lake with fall foliage reflections on the turquoise water makes it an incredibly picturesque setting.
  16. Along the southern portion of the scenic drive, we will see lakes like you will spot churches in Rome, Italy. In an early afternoon with clear skies, you will be welcomed with a treat to the eyes and the lens at Black Pond, Amherst Lake, Echo Lake and Lake Rescue which are some of the largest water bodies in the state.
  17. A quick side trip to the historic homestead of the 30th president of the US, Calvin Coolidge, can be interesting if time permits.
  18. Our favorite village in the entire stretch and warrants a stop at Weston. Check out the historic Vermont Country Store and the Weston Country store for memorabilia, coffee and maple flavored ice cream.
  19. As we pass through another quaint town of Londonderry, the road begins to flatten and straighten a bit more. At the right time, this portion of the road will give ample opportunity for fall foliage picture compositions – with the red hut in the foreground and a placid lake in front of the mountains full of vivid color. So slow down lest you miss out on these unmarked wonders that will make your drive worthwhile.
  20. After you pass through other towns and communities, our trip will wrap up in Wilmington, VT. But one last gem that we want to point out, is the Molly Stark state park towards Brattleboro. A pull out on the right side of the road gives you a sweeping view of the mountain ranges to the east, south and west.

Things to Remember

  • If you are chasing fall foliage, or leaf peepers as the locals say, you can keep a track of the ‘peak’ timing through these websites (e.g. Vermont Foliage Tracker, New England Fall Foliage Map) or follow these Instagram handles (@VermontTourism), etc.
  • The big box retailers are fairly absent from Vermont, making a Starbucks run or your favorite fast food joint, harder to locate. The route 100 goes through quaint towns with coffee shops and food joints. Pick up your supplies for the road here.
  • Finding accommodation is tricky in the Green Mountain state. While the state is mostly safe, we would recommend finding hotels or Airbnb’s relatively early as there is not much of supply either.
  • For the most part, VT 100 is a scenic by road, so traffic may move slowly often. Plus parking in the trail sites can be tricky as most spots do not have a large parking lot. So budget 2-3 hours more to your day itinerary.
  • Vermont is extremely pet friendly, so if you want, take your puppy with you. They will have a great time walking the great American outdoors.
  • Fun Facts – Vermont has no billboards! First US Patent was issued in Pittsfield. First higher education school for women was established here. It was the first state to abolish slavery in 1777. First successful energy producing windmill was set up in Vermont. And, GMO labeling was first made constitutionally required in Vermont.

Map View of the Tour

Here is a quick snapshot of the route and a downloadable map

 [googlemaps https://www.google.com/maps/d/embed?mid=1iKbGQtq6rJOBsZRNsAozrRCS-MDLlRQX&w=640&h=480]

A memorable road-trip through Banff and Jasper

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So you love road trips, eh? We do too. We also love taking pictures and procrastinate doing any post-processing work. If you are the same way, look no further! A road trip in the Canadian Rockies is tailor made for you. Believe us, you would not have to do any photoshopping to make your pictures look stunning. The colors of the glacier fed lakes and the rugged snow clad peaks in the background will make smartphone photos print-worthy!

 

Before you start planning for a road trip of a lifetime, recommend chalking out some details that we often ignore –

  • There will not be much cellphone reception. So get a printed map. We have a Google maps view chalked out below that you can customize and print.
  • Recommend downloading an offline guide app. We love the Gypsy Guide apps. We have used it in road trips around North America. Highly recommended. There are two – for Banff (Lake Louise Guide) and for Jasper (Jasper Guide)

Suggested Duration: 3-4 Days     Best Time of Visit: End May – Early Oct    Base: Banff/Canmore

Itinerary

We set base location in Canmore. The itinerary is divided into days; all days complete at Banff or Canmore. So expect to do a lot of driving each day.

Day 1

  1. Start at the town of Banff and follow Trans-Canada Highway. Put in your GPS, Lake Louise as the destination for now.
  2. Drive to Lake Minnewanka and Vermillion Lakes – Should take about 1 hour to get back to the Highway.
  3. Drive northbound and take the exit towards Bow Valley Parkway leaving the Trans Canada Highway. This is a slower road but chances of wildlife and soaking in history are higher.
  4. First stop is Johnston Canyon. Takes about 1.5 hours for about a mile long round trip hike to the spectacular Lower Falls.

    Johnston Canyon

    Johnston Canyon

  5. Drive slow to spot wildlife, remnants of forest fires and terrain battered by landslides.
  6. Merge into the Trans Canada Highway at Castle Junction and travel north.The Bow River flows south along the road here to your right.
    1. You will also spot some interesting bridges – they are for the bears to cross the highway safely.
  7. Next up is Lake Louise. It is highly visited especially during summer months as the roads are closed until mid-May due to risk of avalanches. There is a hotel – Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise, where you will park the car. A hike around the pristine waters will give you ample opportunities to soak in the beauty. Don’t forget to look around for avalanche debris. Whole trip here should take about 2 hours.
  8. From Lake Louise, follow directions to Moraine Lake. Looking at the deep blue

    waters of the lake surrounded by 10 peaks is an incredible experience. A little hike up the hill created by avalanche debris, will give you an awesome view from the vantage point. The log pile in front of the lake after the parking lot creates a nice foreground for the photography enthusiasts. Taking in the beauty and doing a bit of hiking around should take about 1 hour. Can you guess why the waters in the lake are so blue? Check the answer here.

  9. We chose to end our day after tiring hikes and posing for numerous pictures all day. We will continue this journey on Day 2, but the evening can be spent at the beautiful town of Banff.

Day 2

  1. Fill up gas and your stomach before hitting the road. This will be a much lighter day, and we can revisit one of the hikes or trails that we missed out yesterday. We will head towards Yoho National Park first. About a 45 minute drive from Banff, after the intersection of Icefields parkway, DSC_1732Instead of going towards Icefields Parkway (which we will do on our third day), stay on Trans Canada highway towards Yoho National Park.
  2. Along the road, try spotting some bears as this is a nice habitat for bears by the railroad tracks. Why? As the grain carriages on the tracks may leak some grains which attract bears, causing a number of bear deaths. You will hear train whistles along the way as well to keep bears away from the tracks.
  3. About 15 minutes in, you will spot the Continental Divide which is also the Alberta and British Columbia border. The rivers on either side of the divide flows in opposite directions.

     

  4. Don’t miss the Spiral Tunnels pull out. You may have to wait a bit for the best experience. You may be able to spot a train, which will pass above itself through the spiral tunnels at various levels. This was done due to the steep mountain side that the engineers had to build necessary rail tracks to transport goods. It’s an incredible site. A train generally passes through here every half an hour.
  5. As you drive west along the Yoho parkway, you will spot the upper tunnels as well. We will drive towards Emerald Lake. You will see Natural Bridge signs. This road is typically closed during winters and does not open until early June. We missed the lake and the bridge, but the road up is picturesque enough to fill your appetite.

     

  6. As you drive down to the main highway, take a left towards Field, BC. If you go west, the road takes straight to Vancouver, BC, and is about 9 hour ride. Stop at the idyllic town of Field, BC. It is a charming town in the summer, but winter is harsh here as the towering Mt. Steven hinders sunlight from getting here. Grab a bite in the small town stylish cafes before hitting the road.
  7. Quick turn left to take a steep climb up through a seasonal road towards Takkaka Falls. Pull out at the sign to see the meeting of the waters to the right. Difference between glacial greenish water of Yoho river and clearer waters of Kicking Horse river meet here in a whirlwind. Through multiple switchbacks up, reach the lot for the spectacular Takkaka falls.
  8. This is the wet side of the continental divide, and the vegetation is much greener than the rugged landscape of the other side. But look out for steep slopes that are devoid of any trees. It is a sign of deadly avalanches and landslides have depleted any vegetation.
  9. The Takkaka Falls are fed by the hidden icefields above it which has about 8 different glaciers. The falls are one of the tallest in Canada, and the gigantic amount of water coming down eroded the landscape for ages to create the sharp cliff and gorge.
  10. On your way back down to the highway, look at the Spiral Tunnels from a higher vantage point. On the highway before crossing the AB/BC border, the nice lake of Wapta Lake will be on your right.
  11. Once past the provincial border into Alberta, you are inside Banff National Park again from Yoho National Park. We will end our day here on the road, and spend the afternoon in town of Banff. There are plenty to keep yourselves busy in Banff. Tomorrow is Icefields parkway, and will start very early.

Day 3

  1. Begin as early as possible, preferably before 6am. Fill up gas tank and coffee mugs. From Banff, drive up north about 40 minutes and take the exit towards Icefields Parkway into Jasper. This is voted the best mountain drive in the world. Hopefully you are here around sunrise to spot the golden crowns of the steep peaks around you.
  2. First stop is at Herbert Lake. On a still day, the reflections of the mountains on the lake is inspirational at its best. Many people would stop at the shoulder of the road to take the pictures. DSC_1767
  3. At a distance, about 15 minutes later, you will see Hector Lake which is a large water body only accessible via a trail.
  4. Next up is Bow Lake which has a pristine calm beauty around it. The view is spectacular from the road, but even better is from a tiny alley north of the lake. The alley on the left will take you to the lodge Nampti-Ja, and the view from that level (lake level) is incredible. From here you can spot the Bow Glacier as well.
  5.  Next up is the Bow Summit and the Peyto Lake. The best photo opportunity appears after a steep but short hike. Many postcards, travel magazine covers and wallpapers feature a photo of this. It is about 2500 meters above sea level, so a brief period of out-of-breath is common.
  6. Next up is Snowbird Glacier on your left getting its name from the shape like a bird spreading its wings. There is a small shoulder pull out for a quick stop and snap pictures.
  7. Continuing up north, you will see multiple noteworthy mountain peaks – Mt. Weed on the right hand side, Mt. Cephren pyramid shaped peaks on left, Mt. Wilson with the back of the icefield on top. Stop at the Mistaya Canyon for a quick hike (~30 minutes) through the narrow canyons. You will see washouts caused by melting snow and heavy glaciers. One of them is a big washout on your right.
  8. About 10-15 minutes north, you will see the wide Graveyard Flats where Alexandra and Saskatchewan rivers meet. On your right up ahead is Mt. Coleman with the green vegetation, look out for mountain goats on the cliff. You will see Sakatchewan Glacier and Mt. Andromeda from up ahead.
  9. As you pass the Big Bend, you will spot the end of the glacier and beginning of the river. Mt. Athabasca and Mt. Andromeda, two of the highest mountain peaks in the Rockies, can be seen from the bend ahead. You will enter the Jasper National Park from here.
  10. Next up is the Columbia Icefields where you will spend 2-3 hours exploring the glacier and surrounding vista including the Glacier Skywalk. Read more here.

  11. Quick stop ahead is the Tangle Falls on the right. Set your shutter speed slower and smaller aperture for a nice water strands of the falls falling in multiple stages. Take a closer look up ahead of the Stutfield Glacier.

    Stutfield Glacier

    Stutfield Glacier

  12. Endless chain ridge, a row of knife like peaks, 17 mile in length with highest peak at 9000 feet will be visible to your right. Quick entry on the left and an easy walk to Sunwapta Falls is warranted here.
  13. Past a bunch of lakes like Buck Lake and Honeymoon Lake, drive up towards Athabasca Falls. This is where heavy amounts of water from the river of the same name plunges down through a narrow canyon. Try to capture the falls with the gorgeous mountains in the backdrop.
  14. Press on towards the town of Jasper. You will see the Valley of the Five Lakes which is a 1-2 hour easy trail that takes you to 5 pristine but tiny lakes. But may not be a good one to do on the short time today. So lets skip it, and revisit if you are staying a night in Jasper. You will spot the Pyramid Mountains and Whistlers Mountain Trams up ahead.
  15. End the drive in Jasper town for an evening snack or dinner. We drove back to Banff the same evening, but not recommended. Try to find reservation in one of the quaint lodges in Jasper.

Okay, that’s it for the road trip. Please note that a 3 day itinerary is slightly aggressive, but can easily be stretched into four, especially if weather Gods are not merciful on one of the days. Hope you enjoyed the tour. Please reach out via comments or Instagram/Twitter if we can be of any help to put together an itinerary for you.

Below is a map view. You can also download the map for navigation here.

[googlemaps https://www.google.com/maps/d/embed?mid=1X1UvqbRdHrrVw1YdIyXnUzs9r2BtXOaX&w=640&h=480]

Jasper National Park

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Back to Alberta

So you have seen Banff already, and may be thinking twice on making the long drive along icefields parkway? Do not even flinch. The two parks next to each other actually are vastly different. While Banff offers more accessible yet spectacular views, Jasper National Parks is actually much more rugged, wild and unforgiving, albeit dramatic.

Suggested Time Spent: 1-2 Days   |    Best Time to Visit: May – Oct     |    Entry Fee: CAD 9.80 per adult (incl. w/ Banff NP)

As you drive north from Banff National Park, as you pass the Saskatchewan river crossing, you will enter the famous Icefields Parkway and Jasper National Park. You will not need additional passes if you already have bought the pass for Banff National Park.

Geology

As you embark on this 140 mile stretch of the Icefields Parkway, it is imperative that you gain some insights from a geological standpoint, to make viewing mega-glaciers and rugged terrains more fulfilling. Geology is a topic very close to us and a simplified version of the geologic history is fairly frowned upon. But in order for brevity, here is a simplified version – Tectonic movements of plates caused seabed to rise up 500 million years ago. From then, years of weathering by glaciers, rain and wind has caused some cliffs to be steep and some blunted. These are some of the oldest land on earth, whereas the land in British Columbia is much younger as they were formed by lava coming out of the subduction zones between the two plates. Get all your answers on our short coverage of the Geology of this area.

Things to see

There are plenty of marked attractions along the road, which we will list below, but remember, the real fun happens while you are on your way from one point to the next. Look out for flora and fauna, landscape changes, and the glaciers above. Many attractive features in this park are actually not marked, and can only be seen from the trails or side of the highway. We begin from the south make our way up north.

  • Columbia Icefields and Athabasca Glacier: The Athabasca glacier is one of the biggest attractions, rightfully so, in this area. What you see now is only remnants of the ice cover on this part of the country millions of years ago. It is situated at a slightly elevated plateau, and is surrounded by a number of peaks making it a sweet-spot for photographers. The glacier is like a frozen river where the ice is constantly on the move. The movement of the glacier has and is still shaping the topography of the area. Due to climate warming, the glacier’s recession is actually overwhelming the progress; you can spot the area where the glacier’s receded from. Jasper Cover
    • There is a ticket booth where you can buy the tickets. We did not buy them online, therefore wasting a bit of time. But if your tour itinerary is finalized, buy the tickets here. Please note that you cannot go on top of the glacier on your own. Only vehicles designed to move in the terrain can take you up there. We bought the combo of glacier walk and the skywalk (which was merely a tourist trap in our opinion).
    • When your group is called upon, you will be transported via a shuttle to the ‘Mars Rover’ like vehicle that will take you to the glacier. It goes through an extremely steep decline that normal tires will not be able to endure. The treading in these massive tires are about 6 inches deep. Not surprisingly, not a comfy ride, but the destination, the Athabasca glacier is incredible. It is below freezing here with the windchill coming down the glacier, so not advisable to stay more than 20-25 minutes.
    • When standing on the glacier, you cannot feel the movement of the 10,000 year old ice sheet. But look around the cliffs and you can visualize the thickness it used to have in the pre-historic times. Look up the cliffs and you will see thick (200-250 meters deep in different areas) ice sheets of the Columbia Icefield which is 215 sq. km. in area.
  • Sunwapta Falls: While you will spot many waterfalls along the way, most of them unnamed, this one needs a quick hike to the hanging valleys. Massive amounts of water cascades down a U-shaped broad valley. It was created when a large glacier receded 10,000 years ago, creating a deep limestone gorge below. The mist created by the plunging water makes the ambiance surreal, especially with some cloud cover.
  • Athabasca Falls: Along the Icefield Parkway, you will spot the 23 foot high Athabasca falls on your right. It is one of the most powerful falls due to the large amount of water that the Athabasca glacier fed river of the same name cuts into the softer limestone creating a deep gorge.
  • Mt. Edith Cavell: It was closed when we got there, but if open, a trail lets you look at the peak and traces of the icefield along its sides. There are lookouts though on the Icefields Parkway that you can spot the peak from.
  • Maligne Lake: Through a by road on the right, a trail takes you to one of the most picturesque lakes surrounded by snow-clad peaks. It is an incredible experience to kayak in the lake. As you paddle on the turquoise waters and get to the middle of the lake, you will be tired of clicking pictures of one peak to the other around it.
  • Town of Jasper: We recommend ending the day here in one of the little restaurants or cafes having a bite. If it is a clear day, you can spot the peaks of the Colin range and the jagged peaks of the Athabasca valley. There are lodging options available, but due to high demand, tends to fill out fast.

We came back to Banff the same day, spotting animals and the sunset glow on the ice peaks. The drive was tiring but was worth it to be able to spot so much wildlife as it was the time when they all come out.

Spotting Wildlife

While driving the magnificent Icefields Parkway, slow down. Not only to admire the scenery but also to look out for wildlife roaming around. Due to their camouflage, it is anyway hard to spot them in the sides of the road. But if you look carefully, and know what to look for, spotting a bear or two, porcupines, deer and even an occasional moose can be spotted. We even got lucky and got to see a huge Grizzly bear pretty close to the highway, and a baby black bear crossing the road along with a few more at a distance. Close to sunset and right around sunrise are the best times to spot wildlife.

Mountain Goats are another interesting topic here. They were not originally from here, and were introduced to the area by the explorers. They do not have enough nutrients from the vegetation here, so they lick glacial debris for essential minerals. It will not be difficult to spot Mountain Goats in the cliffs of the Jasper National Park. Make sure to have a high speed camera with a longer tele-lens ready for action. See below on what we could admire and capture in our lenses.

Banff National Park

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Back to Alberta

A short drive from Calgary, one of the oldest national parks of the world, Banff National Park is home to placid lakes, sharp cliffs, glaciers, snow clad mountain ranges and a diverse ecology. Here, you will spot serene lakes as you may spot bars in New York City. While you can choose to come during any time of the year, certain roads may not be accessible in winter.

Suggested Time Spent: 2 Days   |    Best Time to Visit: May – Oct     |    Entry Fee: CAD 9.80 per adult

As you drive from Calgary to Banff National Park through the Trans-Canada Highway 1, you will pass the entrance. To save some time, buy the pass online. Unless you are going to visit multiple parks in the same year, only buy the day pass that is valid for two consecutive days.

Geology

Before hitting the road and the trails in Banff National Park, it is good to have an idea on the geologic history of the Canadian Rockies. Tectonic activity and glaciers primarily formed and shaped the topography of this area. Get all your answers on our short coverage of the Geology of this area here.

Things to see

Banff National Park has plenty of marked attractions for photography and hiking, but real treasures are often in the ‘road less taken’. So even if we recommended 2 full days, we also suggest taking a break from the list of places to cover and go in that trail that looks interesting, albeit safety permitting.

We set up our base in Canmore in a charming little cabin. There is debate on whether to stay in the town of Banff or Canmore. Banff is inside the park, therefore is, not surprisingly, extremely touristy. Whereas Canmore, outside the park boundaries, is a quaint town and has a bit more local feeling. Here are a list of spots that cannot be missed –

  • Lake Minnewanka and Vermillion Lakes: As you exit the highway towards the town of Banff, a small byway will take you to the serene Lake Minnewanka and the Vermillion Lakes. Soak in the beauty of the reflection of the mountains behind on placid lake waters before hitting the road to a few more attractions.
  • Johnston Canyon: Driving north on the Trans-Canada highway, first major stop is at the Johnston Canyon. A quick hike up on a fairly flat trail takes you to the narrow but spectacular Lower Falls. You can crouch up through a small tunnel to get closer to the falls.DSC_1491
  • Lake Moraine: This is one of the top most attractions in the park, with seven peaks surrounding the pristine waters of the lake. Dramatic landscape with clouds hanging above the cliffs, makes incredible photographic memories. There is an easy hike up to a small rock pile (possibly created by glacier debris, known as Moraines) from where you can get magnificent views of the lake with all the seven peaks in the background and reflections of the same in the foreground. In late May, we found portions of the lake surface still being frozen, but between June and September, the view is even more exceptional. Try to spot all the 10 peaks surrounding the lake.
  • Lake Louise: This is the flagship attraction of the park. Hike the popular Lake Agnes trail for an up close view of the Mt. Saint Piran. In summer and early fall, the water of the lake becomes so still and reflective that you can clearly see the peak merely from the reflections. This is in an avalanche zone, so look to the right and you will see evidences of landslides all around.
  • Bow Lake: Further north on the highway, you will reach the pristine Bow lake which is the source of the Bow river that accompanied you so far along the highway. The turquoise blue of the lake with reflections of the Bow glacier makes unparalleled photographic opportunity.
  • Peyto Lake: Slightly to the north, is another gem. In late may, we found the trail up to the Bow summit mostly frozen. But we still endured the treacherous hike up to the summit for a fascinating view of the turquoise glacier lake with Mistaya mountains to the left and Marmot mountain range in the far right background. Be careful on your way down, as the trail may be slippery.
  • Yoho National Park: A gem hidden inside the larger park, this is a few must-see attractions including the Takkakaw falls and Emerald Lake.
    • There is a lookout for the Spiral Tunnels which is still used for cargo trains. The slope was so steep when they tried building a railroad here that the coaches would dangerously slide back down the slope. Therefore an ingenious solution to build multi-level tunnels was designed. If you wait a bit, you may spot a cargo train spiraling from tunnel to tunnel. The tunnel pitch is so short that at some points, the same train can be seen entering into one tunnel and exiting another at a different level. Don’t miss it.
  • Town of Banff: We recommend ending your day here. Walk around the streets filled with local souvenirs and interesting restaurants. Grab a beverage and some food in one of the pretty restaurants, and end with an ice cream at the COWs Ice Cream Shop. While you are in town, walk to the gorgeous Cascade Gardens, stone clad Park Canada building and the scenic Fenland Trail. DSC_1756

Noteworthy Info

  • Forest rangers have found ways to minimize wildfire damage by producing controlled burns. You will spot remnants of these burns at the lower altitudes.
  • Something interesting happens when the Pines are burnt. You may spot new trees have sprouted in the forest full of ancient ones. Under fire, the Pinus cones release a type of resin that germinates paving way to grow new trees whereas other trees perish in a controlled fire.
  • Meadows around the road in the lower altitudes show stories of the rise of tourism, beginning at the stage of horse driven carriages to the modern day cars.

Tips for an incredible trip

  • DO NOT speed up in these roads due to dangerous curves and wild animals.
  • Do Not stop if you spot a bear walking by or grazing. Slow down and take photos as you slowly cruise by.
  • Take the Bow Valley Parkway between Banff and Castle Junction. This road runs parallel to albeit at a slower pace than the Trans-canada highway, but gives you ample opportunities to soak in the beauty around.

 

Arches National Park

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Back to Utah

Out of a number of national parks around the state that hosts a wide variety of extra-terrestrial looking landscapes, Arches National Park definitely holds the first place in terms of the serenity. Gigantic arches reminiscing different shapes and sizes, red rocks bejeweling the foreground and background with no trace of greenery in the horizon.

arches-windoes

Ventana Arch

A park full of arch like structures with the center eroded making it see through! Natural wonders are abundant like McDonalds stores in this area, only that the flavors and taste differ so significantly. We drove through the park first just to scale the area and to prioritize our hikes. This is a popular park and a lot of visitors actually stay overnight camping. We heard that the starry nights are fascinating because of the lack of air and light pollution.

There are tens and thousands of arches of various kinds here. The popular and our favorite ones are – Delicate arch, Double arch, Window/ventana arch, and Turret arch. The

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Sand Dune Arch

geology behind the formation of the arches is intriguing. Million years ago, this land was under the sea indicated by the discovery of fossils of oceanic creatures, mollusks, shells. Once the seas receded, the large basin covered with thick salt beds was covered in turn

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Sky Arch

with large rocks carried in by the streams and rivers. The salt levels being lighter, pushes up the rock layer to create higher rock formations from the valleys. After groundwater dissolved the salt layer, the top layer collapsed into wall like structures. After 100-150 million years’ of weathering, these tall wall like structures took shape of these arches which are made of soft red sandstone. These arches are not permanent structures; new arches are being formed every day while old ones collapse.

The hike to the Delicate arch is a strenuous one, but extremely rewarding. The other arches have their own charm with various structural intricacies, and variation of grandeur. One can easily spend a week here just soaking in the charm of the delicate natural wonders. Find out more about the park from the National Park Services.

Canyonlands National Park

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This one is a humongous park with three different sections – Island in the sky, The Maze and The Needles. The Maze and Needles are not accessible from the Island in the sky. Our POI was Island in the Sky and the primary spots – Green River Outlook, Upheaval Dome and Grand View. From the Green River outlook, we could see the entire river valley with the canyons and the bends of the river.

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Green River Valley

Geologically, the two mighty rivers – Green River and Colorado River flowing together in the park has created the three segments and the entire landscape of this area. There are not many paved roads for normal cars but if you have a 4×4, lot of off-roads are available to explore the canyon and the river banks. Find out more information about the national park system here.Canyonlands 3.jpg

Smoky Mountains National Park

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There is not a single good time to go to the Smoky Mountains – fall brings a deluge of color in the slopes, winter shows the snow-capped mountain tops and spring ushers the full bloom of flowers after the snow melts. Located along the Tennessee and North Carolina border, The Great Smoky Mountains are part of the Appalachian Mountains that stretch the entire length of the east coast of USA.

The park gets its name from the ‘smoke’ that appears in the early morning and gets lighter as the day progresses, but keeping a sheet of smoky fog throughout the year on the mountain slopes. The misty and chilly climate of the area paves ground for the flora and fauna in the area.

Thousands of travelers seeking adventure, hiking, and romance flocks to this picturesque mountain ranges every year, around the year. Here are a few highlights of things to do –

  1. Gaitlinburg – At the bottom of the slope before entering the park is this quaint little img_4505town of Gaitlinburg. Some visitors choose to stay here for its proximity to the park and the charm of this town. Strolls around the town during day or night is relaxing and delightful. In the afternoon, enjoy a hot chocolate or cappuccino sitting in a little cafe while you indulge in deep conversations with your travel buddies or just do people-watching, whatever your game. Come night time, especially during holidays, the city structures and sidewalks lit up in bright light fixtures. You can also choose to hit the slopes by going up in the gondola to witness the beauty of the mountains from a nice vantage point.
  2. Smoky Mountains National Park – There are a number of trails and hiking paths to amazing waterfalls through wildflower fields, forests and little streams no one knows leads where. The road leading to the park entrance (US-441) from Gaitlinburg crosses the park and there are clearly marked signs for sights and trails through the road to Cherokee. Some of our favorite POIs on this road are –
    1. Big Witch Gap Overlook – for stunning vistas of the valley img_2403
    2. Cades Cove – historic buildings in the valley surrounded by tall mountains
    3. Cataloochee Overlook – was the home of the Cataloochee tribe and is now one of the eeriest sites in the park
    4. Clingmans Dome – At 6600′ height, this is one of the highest peaks of the Appalachian range. The vista especially in the spring and winter is spectacular with the ice-capped peak and the colorful foliage in the slope.
    5. Elkmont Historic District – is one of the oldest areas in the park which used to be summer time retreat area for the wealthy families in the south.
    6. Gregory Bald – is a scenic point from where you will see the Cades Cove and the mountain to the north.
    7. Heintooga Overlook – is a great spot for sunset. If you have a tripod and a img_2392camera with auto shutter capability, set a timer for taking pictures in a 2 minute interval from 15 minutes before and after sunset. The changing colors of the sky and the foliage in the foreground will make for scintillating snaps.

Other than visiting the visitor center, take a detour to drive on the famous Blue Ridge Parkway going towards Ashville. On the way there are a few spectacular waterfalls (Skinny dip falls, looking glass falls, etc.). In the winter, the drive is adventurous and panoramic.

Zion and Bryce National Parks

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We left the town of Kanab, UT right at dawn to hit the curves and tunnels en route to Zion National Park. We had half a day, so went straight at it after whizzing past the entrance zion2using our NPS card. Through the visitor center, we walked and hiked through the mesmerizing landscapes of this huge national park. We walked through rivers with ankle high water, hiked to top of the canyons, drenched in emerald pools and sipped the beauty of the flora and fauna around barren yet beautiful landscape. Our favorite POIs were the lower and upper falls, emerald pools, checkerboard mesa, the narrows, and the main canyon. Honestly, one can spend 2-3 days easily and hiking every day all day, yet to cover all the spots. Half a day was crazily below average time people spend here. Nevertheless, we will cover the geology and the environmental tales of Zion in a separate post.

For now lets focus on the next spot – Bryce Canyons. We had a little bit of lunch and headed to Bryce Canyons National Park, a mere 50 minutes drive. But boy, what a drive it was. Surrounded by a landscape that drastically changed every 15 minutes. We went from

green river valley to rocky cliffs to barren country side in a matter of minutes. Until we crossed the famous natural ‘bridge’, we had a feeling we are lost and going in the wrong direction. After entering the park, it seemed to be a different world, at least compared to Zion where we were just less than an hour ago.

From the visitor center to all the POIs, it seemed extremely touristy and the paths are all paved. Not many wilderness trails exist probably for obvious reasons – that the landscape is dangerous with steep cliffs and nothing to hold on to, and sharp drops to the bottom of the canyons. The highlight of this park has to be the ‘hoodoos’ which are best viewed at sunset. The red and orange hues come out swinging at the dying lights of the day. The gorgeous structures are actually formed by wind corrosion and not water weathering. The Bryce Canyon is not really a canyon, but a inverse dome where the bottom layer of rock is weaker than the top layer. Therefore with time, the bottom layer gets corroded faster than the top layer, and creates these fanciful ‘hoodoos’.

There is a steep and slippery pathway to go to the floor of the ‘canyon’ or dome to be with the hoodoos. It is a tough climb back but definitely a must since at various levels, the photo-ops and the panorama changes vividly. Even though it has a lot to offer, one day here should be enough for a savvy hiker to complete.

Tortuguero National Park

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This is one of the parks where a small canoe is the best option to roam around and catch wildlife, compared to walking. We spent the entire day in the park and village, yet seemed too less in terms of a wholly immersive time. Our tour guide (Jessica and Francisco), who we found miraculously, were amazing. Starting from their hospitality, timeliness, and care to make sure we got the best experience possible. Read more about them and their reviews in Tripadvisor.

Here are the highlights of our day in the park –

By Canoe

We started our tour around 8-30am, which is by far the best time to spot wildlife after the park opens around 8am. Francisco took the two of us around the canals in his little canoe and on the way pointing towards the numerous herons, iguanas, migratory birds, turtles, snakes, monkeys, and other interesting plants and trees that adapted for survival in these harsh environments. We even went within a foot of a Caiman waiting for its prey. It rained for a little bit and we took shelter under a tree that acted as a natural umbrella. With insects and animals all around us, danger lurking right below our little canoe, snakes hissing from the wood next to us, our voyage through the narrow (sometimes less than 6 feet wide) canals and passage ways was truly a humbling experience.

 Walking during the day

In the afternoon, we hiked in the park. With one ticket, you can reenter the park multiple times. In the hike, make sure to get boots. We got them from Tanya next door, and the prices were reasonable. During the hike, Francisco made sure we saw many animals, and unlike other tour guides we had in CR, he was especially keen in giving us a fantastic experience. We saw pit vipers, howler monkeys, beautiful toucans, and several other unique insects. Spotting toucans were by far the most elusive as they hovered in the top most branches of the canopied forest and apart from their sharp voice, it is impossible even to know of their presence. At one point, in our quest for the bird, we stumbled upon a beautiful eyelash pit viper. A tiny golden hued coil camouflaged within yellow-green leaves of a bamboo tree lurked apparent danger. We also spotted some other colorful insects that made the journey through the forest enjoyable.

Night walk

It felt like we could never get enough of the rainforest, be it in the day or in pitch black darkness. A 2-3 hour walk after dark in a small group started from the La Pavona pier area. With flashlights, opulent bugspray and rubber hiking boots, we walked around the park through the bushes and along barely used trails. On our way, we spotted night frogs, spiders, and other scary looking insects. In a quest to spot some sloths and bats, we encountered some raccoons and smaller mammals hidden in the bushes too.

Cloud Forest Diary

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Absence of real rain, even with a moist and swampy feeling can only be observed in a cloud forest. While rain forests are common, cloud forests are not simply because of the requirement of a certain altitude and formation of clouds through rainshadow regions. There are a few privately owned and maintained parks in Monteverde, that encapsulates the extreme biodiversity along with the geographical intricacies.

The Santa Elena Cloud Forest Reserve and Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve are two prime parks in the area where you can experience the diverse species of animals and vegetation. We explored the two parks starting early morning when the opportunity to see some of the more elusive animals are more. Most efficient and effective way of seeing the parks are with guides simply because of their experience of spotting camouflaged animals. In most cases, the trails are well maintained and directed.

Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve

Address: Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve 55-5655, Costa Rica

This is one of the oldest reserves and has quite a few trails around the park. Without guide but with a slow walking pace keeping eyes and ears open for cues, it took us 5 hours mostly because of the sudden elevation gains. We took the Cloud Forest Trail, El Camino, Swamp Trail along the continental divide, Shining Trail that leads to La Ventana with an overlook to both sides of the divide (you can easily tell the difference between the two sides of the rainshadow region from here), and Suspended Bridge with a spectacular view of the canopy and some more wildlife.

Santa Elena Cloud Forest Reserve

Address: 6 km (4 mi) north of Santa Elena, Costa Rica (+506 2645 5390)

This park requires reservations and a shuttle ($2 per person) picks up visitors from their hotels. Located north of the town, next to the Selvatura Adventure Park, it has a couple of easy trails (e.g. Cano Negro). In the easy paced trail, there are a few lookouts to the Arenal Volcano, but visibility is often going to hinder any views. A nice quiet park to enjoy the tranquility but for the admission fee of $14 per person, and with other options available, we thought this park can easily be skipped.

Night walk in the Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve

Probably one of our best experiences in spending time in the forests, to book a night walk trip in the Monteverde Cloud Forest. We booked through Anywhere Costa Rica. Priced at $50 per person, they pick you up from the hotel before dark and drive up to the entrance of the park. A scary gondola ride through the dense fog as darkness sets in, is followed by a walk around the park through the suspension bridges trying to spot nocturnal animals. We spotted several nocturnal frogs, a tarantula, owls and birds. But we heard that on other days you can spot many more creatures albeit with flashlights.

Curi Cancha Reserve

Address: 300 meters west of the Monteverde Cheese Factory, 60109, Costa Rica

Not one of the most advertised places, therefore sort of off-the-beaten-path, the Curi Cancha reserve is located near the Monteverde Cloud F0rest Reserve and is also a privately owned park. They have knowledgeable local guides and photographers who can guide you through the park and a large network of them make it easier to spot elusive species of mammals, birds and reptiles. We found this to be the most underrated parks to spot wildlife in Monteverde. Takes about 3 hours to complete but again to maximize your chances of spotting wildlife, go as early as possible.

 

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