Art History Highlights Archives

Vatican City

September 25, 2018 roamngrow Leave a comment

The smallest country in the world with less than a square kilometer in area, having its own police force, army and diplomatic corps, Vatican City sits as an island within the Rome city limits separated by a wall. The state was established in the middle ages, and was obliterated in the 19th century under the Italian state, but was finally re-established in 1929 in lieu of the Lateran Treaty between the Italian state and the Holy See.

Suggested Time Spent: 5 Hours | Admission: €40.00+ for Adults | Hours: Varies (Check details here)

Roaming around the St. Peter’s Basilica you will spot guards in their fancy dresses; they are the Swiss Guards. Originally founded in the 16th century by Julius II for Pope’s personal security, their evocative uniforms designed by Michaelangelo himself has remained the same for five centuries.

Top things to see

As you enter through the doors of the Vatican, you will be guided through the museums and the gardens, eventually making way to the St. Peter’s square. While you can roam around as much as you want, it is difficult to come back to Sistine Chapel without a tour group, so take your time while there. We list out some of the key attractions –

St. Peter’s Basilica

Possibly the most iconic of the buildings, the dome visible from afar, St. Peter’s Basilica sits at the top of the St. Peter’s square. This is where the heart of Christianity has resided for two thousand years. Constantine, converted to Christianity, built a basilica at the spot where St. Peter was martyred. First residence of the Bishop was also built here in the 500’s. Over time this grew in size, and use of the basilica has evolved. Many famous artists including Raphael, Michaelangelo, Bramante and Carlo Maderno were commissioned to enhance the beauty and dominant structures.

It was in 1600’s when Bernini built the huge piazza (see below) and the current intricate facade of the Basilica. Top of the dome, commissioned by Michaelangelo is accessible by 500 steps. At the top of the facade, there are equestrian statues of Constantine , first Christian Emperor and first Emperor of the Holy Roman Empire. There are five entrances to the Basilica, each with its own flamboyant artistry.

Feel free to ditch the tour group as you enter the majestic Basilica, the biggest Christian Church, and your jaw drops admiring the incredible detail and peaceful vastness. Pieta by Michaelangelo and the Statue of St. Peter are remarkable. You won’t miss the gigantic Baroque structure in bronze, Baldachin by Bernini. Under this structure is the Tomb of St. Peter.

Piazza San Pietro

An elliptical area harmoniously open to the heavens and an obelisk with the True Cross at its peak reaching up to the heavens, St. Peter’s Square has been the center of Christianity for centuries. Featured in many popular movies, this piazza is flocked by tourists all the time. This is where the papal audience swarms in and the faithful cheer on during the pope election process.

On the perimeter, you will find astonishing colonnades by Bernini with 284 Doric pillars and 140 statues set in perfect harmony. There are two remarkable fountains as well on either side of the obelisk. From the end of the piazza, the triangular roof of the Sistine Chapel along with the famous chimney is also visible.

Sistine Chapel

Our first glimpse of the inside of the Sistine Chapel was a mixed bag of awe for the number of masterpieces all around, and the smaller than expected size of it. From the novels and movies, it appeared larger; but in no means the grandeur of the artwork alone dumbstruck us. About 40 meters long, 20 meters high and 13 meters wide, it was built in the 15th century sort of imitating Noah’s Ark. Frescoes in the walls contain scenes from Life of Moses to Life of Jesus by Botticelli, Signorelli, Perugino and

Pinturicchio. The greatest masterpieces though are in the ceiling – by Michelangelo between 1508 and 1512. The gigantic biblical scenes, executed by the artist alone, including a variety of poses ranging from the Creation and Original Sin to Redemption. The most iconic is the Creation of Adam where the divine finger is almost touching the first man. The other significant work worth mentioning here is the Last Judgement in the wall made up of 390 naked yet uniquely posing figures surrounding the Christ and the Judge.

Vatican Museums

On and around the Basilica, you will walk through different halls within the Vatican Museum. The intricate artwork and vivid paintings in the hallways and staircases will overwhelm you in minutes. I tried taking notes, but could not keep pace. From what I could recall, over time, the Vatican museums have accumulated so much worth of antiquities, from Egyptian and medieval tapestries to Renaissance paintings, that it is humanely impossible to admire in one go. See below some pictures, though admittedly they do not do justice.

The Gallery of Maps on your way to the Raphael rooms is one of our favorites. It boasts topographical maps of the Italian peninsula from a 16th century perspective. If looked at carefully, you will find intricate historical evidence (e.g. Malta being part of Italy) and that history is written by winners. The vaulted ceilings, however, with its vibrant colors steal the thunder easily.

Before entering the Raphael rooms through the narrow corridor, look out of the balcony to the Belvedere Courtyard which was home to Pope Julius II. But surprise! Its a parking lot now, and looking at those fancy Alpha Romeos will suddenly bring you back to reality from appreciating the splendor inside. But keep walking to the incredible Raphael Rooms where 16th century renaissance masterclasses by Raphael are embellished on the vaulted ceilings and the walls. I would list down the paintings here, but it is a rather long and arduous task which I’d like to refrain from lest the reader loses interest.

Tips

More than 15,000 people on average visit Vatican city every day! So expect things to get a bit crowded.
Because of the same reason above, there is a queue every day at the entrance to the Vatican Museums. The wait times can be up to 5 hours at its worst. So, definitely buy the tickets online.
Even with a ‘skip the line’ kind of ticket, the tour groups in a guided tour are not small, and in the crowd it becomes difficult to follow. Instead be an early bird and get there before 7:30 a.m. Foot traffic is a lot less at that hour, and will give you a bit more breathing space to enjoy the masterpieces.
The tours, for whatever reason, is extremely hurried. You hardly get a chance to appreciate the splendor.
Remember, the tickets are one time use only but gives you access to all the museums inside. Take your time and plan ahead to spend up to 5 hours inside.
Dress Code – The Vatican has a fairly strict dress code. Cover your shoulders (no off-shoulder or halter neck tops/dresses) and knees (no shorts, hot pants and short skirts/dresses). Because Rome gets pretty hot during the summer months, bring a shrug or light scarf to cover the bare skin while you are inside. Also, hats and food are not allowed.
Passport/Visa – Remember this is a different country, so carrying your passport is advisable, although we never had to show it. Visa is not required if you are in the Schengen area, and no, you won’t get your passport stamped in Vatican ;-).
Photography – While it is generally okay to take as many photos as you want, it is absolutely not allowed in the Sistine Chapel. Do not try, guards are watching punctiliously. Instead, stay quiet and look up to admire the Michaelangelo’s.

Roman Forum

September 21, 2018 roamngrow Leave a comment

Back to Rome

Ever experienced the mystic romance of walking down ancient streets while admiring grandiose facades of 2000 year old buildings? If not, a stroll down the alleys in Roman Forum (Fora Romano) is tailor-made for you. From the remnants of the ancient buildings, visualize an established society with its courthouses, market place and religious hubs with the Colosseum in the backdrop.

Suggested Time Spent: 2-3 Hours | Admission: € 12 for Adults | Hours: 9AM – 7PM

As your journey to probably the oldest ruins in the city, begin walking west from Forum of Nerva on via dei Fori Imperialli. Looking east, you should be able to see a portion of the Colosseum. Even before you enter the Roman Forum, try taking a walk along the street with your view of the Foro di Nerva to the right. Walk straight up west towards the Campidoglio.

It is apt that diving into the ancient stories begin from the solemn Capitol, the acropolis of the ancient Rome. Up the stairs from the street level, you will enter the Piazza di Michaelangelo and a view of the equestrian statue of Emperor Marcus Aurelius. The capitol building was actually used as a prison in the middle ages, but in 1500’s, Pope Paull III commissioned Michaelangelo to build the structure. Three palaces with very identical facades around the piazza (Palazzo Senatario, Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori mark the boundaries. Be sure to check out the balustrades with statues placed over the cornices all around.

Walk to the left of the twin statues (8 o’clock from the statue of Marcus Aurelis), for a view of the Roman forum from a higher vantage point in the Palatine Hill. From here you can see most of the major spots within and outside the Roman Forum including the Temple of Saturn, Foro di Cesar, Septimius Severus arch, etc. Numerous photos later, trace back the path to the street level and walk back to the entrance of Roman Forum.

Roman Forum

This was the center of ancient Rome; it was the hub of political, commercial and religious activities back then. Take a right after entering the forum, and walk to the archaic black stone (Lapis Niger), the arch of Settimus Severius (built 203 A.D.). Like many others built in this era, this arch was to commemorate his win in the Parthians war. Check out the details in the outer flanks of the arch, possibly some narrative of the victorious but the artistry is phenomenal. Towards the foot of the capitoline hills, the remains of the Temple of Saturn stand upright. It was used to keep public treasury.

Looking away from the arch of Settimus Severius, on the left sits the most important building of that time, the Curia or the senate. It was the political center of ancient Rome. Next to the Curia, is the oldest Basilica (Basilica Emilia) of which only a few relics remain. From the arch, walk south towards the Temple of Antonius and Faustina which is one of the most preserved buildings. This was built in 141 A.D. in memory of Antonius’ wife, is now converted to a church. Placed on a high podium, the facade and the bronze door is one of the key marvels in the Roman Forum.

On the right you will find the remaining three columns of the Temple of Castor and Pollux. It was erected to commemorate the twin brothers’ key contributions in defeating the Etruscans and Latins. At the south end of the forum, closest to the Colosseum, you will find the simpler but elegant Arch of Titus, built in 81 A.D. Look underneath the arch for splendid relief showing the processing of bringing the spoils from Jerusalem.

Tips

Although not as busy as the Colosseum, it is better to buy tickets online (combo of Roman Forum and Colosseum) to save time. There are discounted tickets and free entrance on the first Sunday of a month. Check out the details here.
Guided tours are available, and are recommended as there are virtually no signage, especially in English. Smartphone apps like eTips can also be handy. We did not take a guide but followed the smartphone app guide; much cheaper but obviously not as entertaining as a human guide.
Take time to learn a little bit about the forum and its buildings lest it becomes boring to walk around the ruins.
If you are using a smartphone map, use the bolded location names in this page to navigate easily from point to point.

Lua’u and a brief history of Hawaii

January 9, 2017 roamngrow One comment

It is a must do for any first time traveler to the Hawaiian islands. The Old Lahaina Luau, in Maui, possibly had the best experience for us that it combined the hula dance show with a focus on the cultural and mythological perspective while devouring on delicious traditional dishes. Read more details on the food and our experience in my Tripadvisor review.

Let’s talk about the show and some perspectives on Hawaiian history –

What is Luau?

Long before Hawaii became the Aloha state (in 1959), the Polynesians used to celebrate events or special occasions (like end of a war, new era, throning of a king, childbirth, etc.) through a gathering that invariably had a wide spread of traditional recipes. These feasts were called ‘aha’aina. Typical delicacies included fresh caught fish, pork, and bananas. Lua’u typically signifies a party or a feast. But in Hawaiian, it actually means Taro leaf. Polynesians used to enjoy cooked taro leaf (luau) during the feasts along with poi, dried fish, sweet potatoes, and pork baked underground (imu). They ate with fingers and sitting on the floor. Also, it is said that when you are invited to a luau, you are family.

Hawaiian Mythology and Legends

The Old Lahaina Lua’u show opened with a priest setting up to pay a tribute to the Gods. Hula dancers slowly arrive and perform acts to depict the multiple stages of the ceremony. Chants and drums are played to supplement the dance moves throughout the hour-long display of extravagant costumes and adept performers. The entire crew lit up the stage in such a way that soon the audience gets immerses in praying to Pele. The chants, although undecipherable to untrained ears, made it obvious how much Pele’s wrath meant to the ancient islanders, and that keeping her satisfied ensured long lives and prosperity to the residents.

Like most indigenous folk, the legends and myths of the Hawaiian islands are also associated with the whim of nature, and the tales speak of Gods, men and life. Deep connection with the mother Earth gave rise to stories about lava flow from volcanoes, tidal waves and creation of Earth. There were many Gods, most associated with certain elements of life, and around the islands, the Gods were represented by tikis. While in the islands, we found and heard about Pele, the Goddess of fire, lightning, dance, and volcanoes, the most. Legend has it, she was born in the polynesian island of Tahiti and initially came to the island of Kauai, onward to settle in Oahu. Then she got into a ravage fight with her sister Namakaokahai for seducing her brother-in-law. The battleground was Maui and said to have formed the current Haleakala crater. But she had to flee from Maui running from fiery lava flow. From then on she took abode in Mauna Kea in Big Island and that is where she lives now. From her home in the Halemau’mau’ crater, she wakes up intermittently to find her true love, who is also the husband of her sister Namakaokahai. The raging lava lake in Kilauea is a gentle reminder that she is home. To endure from the rage of Pele, the tribute and chant depicted by the Old Lahaina Luau performers seemed apt and convincing.

Brief History of the Islands

Hidden in the myths and legends of the indigenous folk, is a bloody and war torn history that dates back hundreds of years. First sign of men coming to the islands was in the fifth century when Polynesians arrived accidentally in their canoes. In the early part of the second millennium, Tahitians arrived with their Gods and demi-Gods, and instituted social structures. Division of land, social divides, and early professions started under the rule of a Monarch. The Kingdoms and the casts were in constant conflicts, yet the culture flourished with art, sport, and food. Even though cultural aspects started booming, none could actually mature into a major cultural menhir probably because of the absence of external influence and presence of constant internal turmoil.

Hawaiian islands changed hands several times during the royal kingdom reign and stayed divided. In late 1700’s, king Kamehameha united the islands and unified the tribes. After Capt. James Cook discovered the islands, constant inflow of traders, seamen and whalers changed the face of the islands and it started becoming westernized. Colonists slowly started taking over and the local free men were put under dominance. In 20th century, agriculture flourished with plantations of sugarcane, coffee and pineapple. Founder of a now famous juice company, James Dole put a spotlight on the islands after he started a massive production of fresh fruits and juices.

Hawaiian islands became an American territory and US started using the port of Pearl Harbor as one of the mainstays of Pacific dominance. The islands were on the spotlights again after an unfortunate set of attacks by the Japanese in WWII. After the unfolding of the war and a changed political landscape, Hawaii became the 50th state of the United States in 1959. The ethnicity, culture, and diversity of the islands still carries the untold stories of the islands from a historical and political perspective.

Chichen Itza and the Cenotes

February 2, 2016 roamngrow Leave a comment

Chichen Itza

Pyramid of Kukulcan (El Castillo)

May 2014

Day two took us to the much awaited visit to the Mayan civilization nested inland, 200km from Cancun. A $79 per person bus tour was organized from the Hotel Concierge, that picked us up by 7:30am. Breakfast, drinks, and lunch was included, along with narratives on the history and backgrounds of the Mayan people. If required, we also gathered a nice map for the site, which is regarded as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. Until a few years back, tourists could climb up the stairs of the mesoamerican pyramids, but due to vandalism and to protect the ancient wonder, tourists are no longer permitted to climb.

Facts:

In Mayan, Cancun (Kaan Kun) means ‘Nest of the Serpent’. Watch out for the Iguanas in all parts of the area.
Chichen means the mouth of the well. Itz is the high priest.
About 800,000 people still speak the Mayan language, albeit the written language is not practiced anymore, possibly due to the large number of characters and complexity of the structures.
Apart from the Cusco area in Mexico, Mayans still reside in Belize, El Salvador, Guatemala.
Mayans followed the Venus cycle for the famous (or infamous) Mayan Calendar. The calendar counts number of days from the start of the cycle, which is when the Earth, the Sun, and the Venus align. This is the creation date.
Mayan Calendar: Two wheels rotating in opposite directions measure the number of days. The best way to display the LC (long count) day is: Baktun.Katun.Tun.Uinal.Kin. Details of the format can be found here.

In the entire tour, taking 3 hours, we came to know several interesting things about the area. That the area is covered with limestone, made the rivers to run underwater, and therefore provided unlimited filtered water to the inhabitants of the village. The Chichens were smart people, and had placed great values on family, GOD, and the tribe they belonged to. Multiple wars were fought in the days to gain power. They were engineers too. Built straight roads to the ocean, used zero, erected hollow pyramids, and created scientifically designed structures that marked the four seasons based on the Earth’s orbital cycles. By far the most important structure in the area is the Pyramid of Kukulcan (deity of serpent). The pyramid has staircases, designed in a way to make it look like two snakes winding up to the top, with their heads in the ground level. During the equinoxes, the shadows create the visual effect of the deity whirling down the staircase. Interesting: The four staircases have 91 steps, and the final step on the top adds up to the number of days in a solar calendar, 365 days.

El Caracol

Great Ball Court

Other structures we visited were the Great ball court (where the game of Pok ta Pok was played during specific events), the Sacred Wall, El Caracol (the observatory of the Mayans), Chac Mool (the lying human statue), and El Mercado (the market). The structures were all painted in different colors, and over the years, the colors have faded but the rocks still managed to exist even after 1000 years of existence. In essence the Mayans somehow reminded us of the Egyptian and Indus civilizations, albeit without any chance of communication among them. Similarities in the pyramid structure, reliance on the high priests on horoscopes and decisions, and worshiping of deities for food and income would run a shiver if thought carefully.

El Mercado

The Sacred Wall

Chac Mool

After the tour, we were taken to a so called ‘Co-Operative’ for Mayan people where we had a delicious Mexican and Yucatan style lunch buffet accessorized with local music and dancers. But the store up front, had mass produced items at an exceedingly steep price. Therefore, we took the less beaten path, and crossed the street to find a little mom-and-pop shop that had equally good souvenirs. A little bit of haggling for price, with the Calcutta trained shopper, yielded great results. 🙂

Ik Kil Cenote

Cenotes

The tour stopped for a little bit at one of the largest Cenotes (Sink Hole). The Ik Kil Cenote was a good place to be in a hot summer day. With a depth of about 140 feet, one can jump from different heights into the crystal clear water. There are underground tunnels underneath the surface of the water which is about 80 feet from the ground level. For the less adventurous ones, life vests are available for $3, and for the far less adventurous ones, the 80 step staircase would take you to the water level, where you can feel the water and soak the toes. The return phase of the trip was fun with unlimited supply of cerveza, and tequilla shots. Interesting way of getting people to slumber.