Author: roamngrow

Castel Sant’Angelo

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On the western bank of the River Tiber, a prominent round structure, the Sant’Angelo castle can be seen from a distance. It was built by Emperor Hadrian as a mausoleum for himself in 130 A.D. As you enter through the courtyard, you can see the double line of windows sculpted by Michaelangelo. There are many rooms in the castle, but most people without a bit of background would find them fairly monotonous. If you have read Dan Brown’s Angels and Demons, you can find the castle courtyard and the prison featured in the novel.

Suggested Time Spent: 1 Hour     |     Admission: €14 for Adults   |    Hours: 9AM – 7:30PM (More details here)

Best selling point of the Castle though from a photo opportunity perspective is the terrace from where a panoramic vista of Rome including the Vatican City can be enjoyed. We recommend visiting the Castle in the afternoon after the trip to the Vatican city as you are in the neighborhood of Prati. You can cross the bridge, Ponte Sant’Angelo, built in 2nd century A.D. to reach the other side in the quaint neighborhood of Rione v Monti.

The bridge itself is full of street vendors trying to sell knock-off handbags and souvenirs; we highly recommend swaying away and focus on the views instead. Ten angels, designed by Bernini in the 17th Century, will welcome you to either side.

Trevi Fountain

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Rome is home to a number of iconic fountains and some more not-as-exuberant ones around the city. In some, water sprouts out from a Lion’s mouth, stone masks in others. But in terms of grandeur, nothing beats the Trevi; a brilliant Baroque creation, in an elaborate display of sculptures, headed by the chariot of Neptune shaped like a shell, drawn by sea horses and led by tritons.

Suggested Time Spent: <1 Hour     |     Admission: Free   |    Hours: All day, but lights turned off at night

The original plan of the design originates from the 16th century by Bernini, but political troubles pushed back the commissioning of the construction to 18th century. Completed by Nicola Salvi in the 18th century, the water comes from the aqueduct of Acqua Virgo, it likely gets its name from the ‘junction of three roads’. The statues are carved from Carrara marbles and the facade is built from travertine limestone.

As in other Baroque creations, the facade and the statues in the Trevi carries symbolic significance. The statue of Oceanus, the horses depicting the mood of the sea, tritons bringing joy and peace to the earth, and the statues of health, abundance can all be found upon close inspection in this elaborate construction.

Above all the art and history, as legend has it, you should also throw a coin with your right hand over your left shoulder while facing back to the fountain. Many good things can happen including a second visit to Rome, falling in love with a Roman, even marrying one. Pick your poison. Before signing off, I’d ask you – can you estimate the annual monetary value of all the coins thrown in the water of Trevi Fountain? Leave the calculation framework in the comments.

Tips

  • Visit once during the day and once during night. The colors are spectacular at night. Although after 10pm, the lights are turned off in summer.
  • For a photo op without the crowds, after sunrise, around 8 am is a good time.
  • For several reasons, Trevi is one of the worst spots for losing valuables and belongings. Watch your back and bags. One more reason to avoid the crowded times.

    La Dolce Vita in Trevi

    Anita Ekberg in Fellini’s La Dolce Vita

  • Fun fact – many Italians and international cinema critics remember La Dolce Vita, where Anita Ekberg bathes in the Trevi fountain. Don’t think it is allowed anymore, but food for thought.

Pantheon

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Sitting in the central parts of the city, this iconic structure has held its own for more than two millenniums. Built a few years before Christ was born in honor of Augustus, Pantheon is one of the very few structures retaining its antiquity. Historians attribute the preservation to the fact that Pantheon has continually being used for multiple purposes over the years.

Suggested Time Spent: 1 Hour     |     Admission: Free   |    Hours: 9AM – 6PM

It went from being a memorabilia to a church to being a political hub after the medieval ages. Structurally, the round plan, a cylindrical wall supporting the dome is common to Roman architecture. But the dome, 43 meters high and same width, was an engineering feat at that time. This vault is bigger than St. Peter’s, and is probably the largest built in that time. The only source of light into the vault, the 9 meters wide hole at the top of the dome, illuminates the facade in dreamy light.

Multi colored marbles in the two stories in the inside walls create an interplay of colors in mysterious light and shadows. Including the aforesaid purposes, Pantheon also holds tombs of famous artists, e.g. Raphael, and members of Savoy family and emperors.

Outside, the wide columns are large enough that it takes four adults to measure the circumference by holding each others’ hands. The 6 meters tall obelisk, Macuteo, and the fountain sits in the square in front of the Pantheon.

Tips

  • The shops and restaurants around the Pantheon are infamous tourist traps. Although it may be convenient to pick up souvenirs, it is not advisable to have a full meal in the nearby restaurants; sub-par quality yet pricey.
  • Walk to the nearby Church of Maria Sopra Minerva, almost next door to the back of the Pantheon. On your way there, you can spot the back side of Pantheon to appreciate the founding blocks of the structure. Admire one of the best obelisks (out of a total of thirteen in Rome), designed by Bernini, where an elephant is carrying the obelisk.

Piazza Navona

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An incredible jewel in the Roman Baroque scene, Piazza Navona is one of the most visited tourist attractions in Rome. Travelers, street vendors, and petty thieves flock to this wide piazza almost the entire day. But we found this pleace to quiet down after 8pm, when you can take a breather by one of the fountain side or on the benches in the perimeter while sipping an after dinner espresso.

Suggested Time Spent: 1 Hour     |     Admission: Free   |    Hours: All day, but churches are closed after midnight

What used to be an arena for naval warfare and athletic competitions, Piazza Navona hosts two of the greatest Baroque geniuses – Gian Lorenzo Bernini and Francesco Borromini. Bernini created the fountain of the rivers (Ganges, Nile, Danube and Plate) with the obelisk at the center stage; Borromini designed the Church of Sant’Agnese in Agone. There are two other fountains – Neptune and Moro. Around the square, there are splendid palaces, library, and a Church (Church of Nostra Signora) from the 15th century.

Around the square, there are several other masterpieces, including the Church of Saint Luigi dei Francesi which has canvasses by Caravaggio from 16th century. In a walk from Pantheon to Piazza Navona, this is hard to miss. The side streets to the east and west of the piazza are shoppers paradise, although we have found these locations not optimum for getting the best prices. Read more about shopping here.

Piazza del Popolo

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The people’s square, the Piazza del Popolo with the obelisk at its center and two identical churches, is one of our favorite places to have casual meals and relax in Rome. Structurally, the piazza sits at the intersection of three streets, via del Babuino, via di Ripetta and via del Corso. Sitting at one of the steps or the balls in the perimeter, enjoy the timeless view of the cathedrals.

The obelisk was erected in 1589 by Pope Sixtus V, and the two churches Santa Maria di Montesanto and Santa Maria dei Miracoli were completed in the years after. Although both look identical, dome of one of them is actually oval in order to fit in the asymetric space.

The best view of the square, however, is from the gardens of the Pincio above the piazza. It is easier to access the terrace (Terraza del Pincio) from the Park villa Borghese. After you visit the Borghese Gardens and Borghese Art Gallery, take an afternoon walk through the park. It is a popular place for kids, evening walkers and even runners. (Read more on Borghese Gallery and Park here). One of the best sunset views with Piazza del Popolo can be found from the Pincio Terrace.

View of Piazza del Popolo from Pincio Gardens

Look down into the Piazza del Popolo from Pincio Gardens

Roman Forum

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Ever experienced the mystic romance of walking down ancient streets while admiring grandiose facades of 2000 year old buildings? If not, a stroll down the alleys in Roman Forum (Fora Romano) is tailor-made for you. From the remnants of the ancient buildings, visualize an established society with its courthouses, market place and religious hubs with the Colosseum in the backdrop.

Suggested Time Spent: 2-3 Hours     |     Admission: € 12 for Adults   |    Hours: 9AM – 7PM

As your journey to probably the oldest ruins in the city, begin walking west from Forum of Nerva on via dei Fori Imperialli. Looking east, you should be able to see a portion of the Colosseum. Even before you enter the Roman Forum, try taking a walk along the street with your view of the Foro di Nerva to the right. Walk straight up west towards the Campidoglio.

It is apt that diving into the ancient stories begin from the solemn Capitol, the acropolis of the ancient Rome. Up the stairs from the street level, you will enter the Piazza di Michaelangelo and a view of the equestrian statue of Emperor Marcus Aurelius. The capitol building was actually used as a prison in the middle ages, but in 1500’s, Pope Paull III commissioned Michaelangelo to build the structure. Three palaces with very identical facades around the piazza (Palazzo Senatario, Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori mark the boundaries. Be sure to check out the balustrades with statues placed over the cornices all around.

Walk to the left of the twin statues (8 o’clock from the statue of Marcus Aurelis), for a view of the Roman forum from a higher vantage point in the Palatine Hill. From here you can see most of the major spots within and outside the Roman Forum including the Temple of Saturn, Foro di Cesar, Septimius Severus arch, etc. Numerous photos later, trace back the path to the street level and walk back to the entrance of Roman Forum.

Roman Forum

This was the center of ancient Rome; it was the hub of political, commercial and religious activities back then. Take a right after entering the forum, and walk to the archaic black stone (Lapis Niger), the arch of Settimus Severius (built 203 A.D.). Like many others built in this era, this arch was to commemorate his win in the Parthians war. Check out the details in the outer flanks of the arch, possibly some narrative of the victorious but the artistry is phenomenal. Towards the foot of the capitoline hills, the remains of the Temple of Saturn stand upright. It was used to keep public treasury.

Looking away from the arch of Settimus Severius, on the left sits the most important building of that time, the Curia or the senate. It was the political center of ancient Rome. Next to the Curia, is the oldest Basilica (Basilica Emilia) of which only a few relics remain. From the arch, walk south towards the Temple of Antonius and Faustina which is one of the most preserved buildings. This was built in 141 A.D. in memory of Antonius’ wife, is now converted to a church. Placed on a high podium, the facade and the bronze door is one of the key marvels in the Roman Forum.

On the right you will find the remaining three columns of the Temple of Castor and Pollux. It was erected to commemorate the twin brothers’ key contributions in defeating the Etruscans and Latins. At the south end of the forum, closest to the Colosseum, you will find the simpler but elegant Arch of Titus, built in 81 A.D. Look underneath the arch for splendid relief showing the processing of bringing the spoils from Jerusalem.

Tips

  • Although not as busy as the Colosseum, it is better to buy tickets online (combo of Roman Forum and Colosseum) to save time. There are discounted tickets and free entrance on the first Sunday of a month. Check out the details here.
  • Guided tours are available, and are recommended as there are virtually no signage, especially in English. Smartphone apps like eTips can also be handy. We did not take a guide but followed the smartphone app guide; much cheaper but obviously not as entertaining as a human guide.
  • Take time to learn a little bit about the forum and its buildings lest it becomes boring to walk around the ruins.
  • If you are using a smartphone map, use the bolded location names in this page to navigate easily from point to point.

Spanish Steps in Piazza di Spagna

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Remember Gregory Peck and Audrey Hepburn walking down the long set of steps with a Church with twin towers in Roman Holiday from the black and white cinema era? Those are the Spanish Steps. From the vantage point on Piazza di Spagna, a remarkable Church, sets of steps and a fountain creates the beautiful facade. A number of other famous work in pop culture including music videos and movies have been set with the iconic steps in the background.

The unusual boat shaped fountain (17th century) at the bottom of the steps, designed by Pietro Bernini, the father of the more famous Gian Lorenzo Bernini, sits in the middle of Piazza di Spagna. Looking up, the double domed Church, named Trinita dei Monti, houses many chapels dedicated to famous noble families. In order to connect the Bourbon Spanish embassy and the Trinita dei Monti in the higher level with the Holy See in Palazzo Monaldeschi at the Piazza di Spagna level, the unique steps were built by architect Francesco De Santis. A wonderful Baroque creation, it has a set of ramps with equal number of steps in each.

From the top of the steps, you can get a picturesque view of the square below with the characteristically similar buildings on either sides of the narrow alleys. On any given evening, while the warm glow of the setting sun adorn the top of the Church, finding a place to sit on the stairs could be a challenge.

Tips

  • For best photo opportunities of this marvel, plan to arrive early in the morning or late in the night.
  • Due to the large number of tourists here, pickpockets and petty thieves swarm this area. Be careful to not pay attention to your belongings while you admire the marvels through your eyes and the lens.
  • Before getting to sit on the steps with your group or by yourself, do not forget to get a coffee from the 18th century coffee-shop Caffe Greco.
  • Stop to admire the street performers playing a classic tune in their violins and flutes. Don’t forget to tip.
  • Last but not the least, if you are a fan, feel free to check out the designer shops in the area. Most recognizable names in the upscale fashion industry have a footprint here.

Rome: A Historical Perspective

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“Rome wasn’t built in a day”. Literally!  If you browse through thousands of Roman history books and a vast ocean of documented literature, you will find a city that went through ups and downs, a society that saw more change than any other comparable one, empires and republics reaching their zeniths only to be drawn to ashes. Strolls around the modern metropolis of Rome would paint the same picture. To the more inspired, you can hear hoofs of Cesar’s horses on cobblestone roads, or clanging of swords in the Colosseum, or whispers of common folk in the Roman Forum.

Early Days

Legend has it, that the twin brothers Romulus and Remus, raised by a she-wolf founded

Romulus

Romulus and Remus, raised by a she-wolf

the city. Documented history of the city goes back about three thousand years to 750 B.C. when it was governed by seven kings. Kingdoms by Romans, Sabines and their struggle with the outsider Etruscans, followed by a Republican Rome established the foundation of the Roman empire. After Julius Cesar’s influential yet controversial reign in the 100’s B.C., Augustus, the emperor took reign of the empire and it grew substantially. Art, culture, military and societal prowess helped Rome become the ominous superpower in the entire Western world. Rome saw a steep decline during the first half of the first millennium due primarily to spread of Christianity and ignoble emperors like Nero, Caligula, Claudius. A weakened Rome saw barbarian attacks, mainly by Attila the Hun, and rise of the Byzantine empire.

Walk through history

Although somewhat isolated, the ruins in the center of the city, especially in Roman Forum, contains some of the key artifacts that helps to revisit the old days. From sixth century B.C. to the Byzantine age, the lives of the Romans including political, cultural and social centers of ancient Rome are depicted here. Due to absence of any signage or relevant narration, it is close to impossible for a casual tourist to fathom the significance of the ruins. From what is left of the temples of Saturn, Vesta, Antinius and Faustina, in Roman Forum, and others (especially Imperial Forum, Forum of Augustus and Forum of Caesar), if coupled with appropriate historical anecdotes, one could reconstruct the historical timelines with relative ease.

Arches, that are signatures of Roman architecture primarily erected to celebrate major victories, were built during this time. Arches of Constantine (next to the Colosseum), Settimus Severius (in Roman Forum) and Arch of Titus (in the Imperial Forum) are some of the most remarkable ones. Read about the above here.

 

Medieval Times

Establishing Christianity as the only religion of the country, in the Constantine era, united the country, albeit conceding some of the ruling powers to the papacy. It became the ‘Holy Roman Empire’ under the pope-installed emperor Charlemagne in the 800’s A.D. Following 500 years saw a ceaseless struggle between the papacy and feudal nobles. It was during these years, that Roman art and architecture reached their pinnacles, albeit driven by political agenda. Pristine artistry by Michaelangelo, Bernini, Raphael and Cellini still inspire awe; but the underlying propaganda to establish Church’s dominance shows the depth of the power struggle during the protestant revolution.

Walk through history

Politically treacherous times and multiple barbarian invasions, likely would have hindered construction of significant monuments during the early years of the middle ages. Rise of Christianity influenced establishment of churches and cathedrals like Trinita dei Monti (above the renowned Spanish Steps). The Capitol was also established during this time, although the main square (Square of Michaelangelo) was built much later. The Piazza’s built during the ancient times, also saw some change with Churches, Fountains and Obelisks being put in to commemorate victories or events. Each of the Piazzas (e.g. Piazza Navona, Piazza del Popolo, Piazza di Spagna, Piazza Venezia) have their own history and significance beyond their picturesque facade. But among all the sites, Pantheon, due to its usage over the ages, holds its antiquity and is probably the most important. It holds history of old pagans, translated into a church and holds plethora of tombs.

Modern Times

Modern times beginning in the eighteenth century saw the rise of the state again with Fascism taking over in the early 20th century. Establishment of the Vatican City, a walled sovereign country within the city boundaries of Rome, in 1929 through the Lateran treaty, ended the cold war between the papacy and the state. Post World War II saw mastery of Italian art take shape of cinema, the age of “La Dolce Vitta” by Fellini.

Modern day Roma is a progressive metropolis with inhabitants from all around the globe with a juxtaposition of cultures and modern amenities. On one hand, Vatican City displays the jewels of renaissance art work at the helm of Christianity, and on the other hand you can find niche designer brands like Gucci, Ferregamo and like in the Piazza de Spagna next to the Spanish steps.

Even in the modern day, the influence of the city cannot be ignored, be it from the center of the Roman Empire, to the architectural ingenuity, and being the bedrock of Christianity. As described elsewhere in this website, no matter whether you are a history buff or a casual explorer, take time to walk the ruins and understand the relevance. Your high-school history lessons on Roman history will not appear as unremarkable as it did before. Enjoy your Roman holiday!

Colosseum

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As documented and indicated by ancient authors, was the Colosseum in Rome indeed a ‘death trap’? Did the ancient Romans construct an elaborate amphitheater to quench their blood thirst? An enormous structure in the center of the city holding 80,000 people really witnessed fights between humans and exotic animals? Or is it just Hollywood effects, depicted in the famous movie Gladiator? Now a popular tourist destination, we entered to experience the mythical structure and find our own clues to demystify some of the historical anecdotes.

Suggested Time Spent: 2-3 Hours     |     Admission: € 12 for Adults   |    Hours: 9AM – 7PM (More information here)

History Lesson

Before we jump into deciphering the mysteries, let’s paint the picture from the structural perspectives. A large amphitheater constructed by the Flavian dynasty (Vespasian, Titus and Dominitan) around 70-80 A.D., on land acquired by Nero after the Great Fire of Rome in 64 A.D. It is believed that it was financed by the spoils of the Jewish Temple in Jerusalem. While there are variations in opinions from historians, the arena (larger than two American Football fields) was used for staging Gladiator fights, animal fights, drama, and believe it or not, naval battles. Some artifacts suggest crucifixions, courthouse and public executions were also part of the usage.

Over the ages, through medieval and modern times, there have been evidences of this being used as a cemetery, church, even bull fight arena under various rulers. But even after deep dive investigations of the ruins, underground tunnel networks, re-engineered capstones by forensic scientists, archaeologists and engineers around the world, instances of blood-baths have not been proven as such. Most evidences of Gladiatorial fights with wild beasts and fights till death are merely anecdotal till date.

Architecture

The columns and arches found in the Colosseum are signature Roman architecture along with underground tunnel network that show Greek influence. A perfect elliptical shape (188m x 150m) contrary to much easier circular construction  is proof of engineering ingenuity of that time. 80 arches, three tiers to hold up to 80,000 spectators, 8 entrances and an exterior covered by travertine points to the design and planning repertoire of the ancient Romans. The design of a two story basement or hypogeum (now visible clearly from all levels inside) to hold Gladiators and animals along with the tunnels to transport water, food and the participants from outside the arena can compete even with modern day architectural feats.

Things to know before you go

  • Like most of the other Roman sites, Colosseum does not have good signage and detailed history inside it. Consider revving up your history lessons from this blog or elsewhere in order to make your trip remarkable.
    • There are smartphone apps (e.g. eTips) that have good commentary on Colosseum, that you can use as a companion.
    • Guided tours are available, but since the place can get extremely crowded, it is hard to follow along. We do not recommend it.
  • In summer, thousands of tourists flock this site, so long lines are inevitable. Consider buying  a ticket online.
    • Better yet, buy the combo ticket from Roman Forum (Fora Romano) across the street. Lines in Colosseum are much longer than at Roman Forum. Check updates on hours and tickets from the official site here.
  • The Colosseum has several steep steps to get to the audience levels three stories up. But it is surprisingly accessible by an elevator for elderly or disabled.

Want to learn more on whether Colosseum was indeed a killing machine? Check out these articles/blogs (NYTimes, BBC Story) and YouTube documentaries (Ancient History, Gladiator Story) before you go. But regardless of your thought process, enjoy the grandeur and significance of this ancient engineering marvel while you are there.

Please leave a comment or ask questions if you are interested to learn more.

 

Arches National Park

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Out of a number of national parks around the state that hosts a wide variety of extra-terrestrial looking landscapes, Arches National Park definitely holds the first place in terms of the serenity. Gigantic arches reminiscing different shapes and sizes, red rocks bejeweling the foreground and background with no trace of greenery in the horizon.

arches-windoes

Ventana Arch

A park full of arch like structures with the center eroded making it see through! Natural wonders are abundant like McDonalds stores in this area, only that the flavors and taste differ so significantly. We drove through the park first just to scale the area and to prioritize our hikes. This is a popular park and a lot of visitors actually stay overnight camping. We heard that the starry nights are fascinating because of the lack of air and light pollution.

There are tens and thousands of arches of various kinds here. The popular and our favorite ones are – Delicate arch, Double arch, Window/ventana arch, and Turret arch. The

arches-sand-dune-arch

Sand Dune Arch

geology behind the formation of the arches is intriguing. Million years ago, this land was under the sea indicated by the discovery of fossils of oceanic creatures, mollusks, shells. Once the seas receded, the large basin covered with thick salt beds was covered in turn

arches-sky-arch

Sky Arch

with large rocks carried in by the streams and rivers. The salt levels being lighter, pushes up the rock layer to create higher rock formations from the valleys. After groundwater dissolved the salt layer, the top layer collapsed into wall like structures. After 100-150 million years’ of weathering, these tall wall like structures took shape of these arches which are made of soft red sandstone. These arches are not permanent structures; new arches are being formed every day while old ones collapse.

The hike to the Delicate arch is a strenuous one, but extremely rewarding. The other arches have their own charm with various structural intricacies, and variation of grandeur. One can easily spend a week here just soaking in the charm of the delicate natural wonders. Find out more about the park from the National Park Services.

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