Author: roamngrow

A memorable road-trip through Banff and Jasper

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So you love road trips, eh? We do too. We also love taking pictures and procrastinate doing any post-processing work. If you are the same way, look no further! A road trip in the Canadian Rockies is tailor made for you. Believe us, you would not have to do any photoshopping to make your pictures look stunning. The colors of the glacier fed lakes and the rugged snow clad peaks in the background will make smartphone photos print-worthy!

 

Before you start planning for a road trip of a lifetime, recommend chalking out some details that we often ignore –

  • There will not be much cellphone reception. So get a printed map. We have a Google maps view chalked out below that you can customize and print.
  • Recommend downloading an offline guide app. We love the Gypsy Guide apps. We have used it in road trips around North America. Highly recommended. There are two – for Banff (Lake Louise Guide) and for Jasper (Jasper Guide)

Suggested Duration: 3-4 Days     Best Time of Visit: End May – Early Oct    Base: Banff/Canmore

Itinerary

We set base location in Canmore. The itinerary is divided into days; all days complete at Banff or Canmore. So expect to do a lot of driving each day.

Day 1

  1. Start at the town of Banff and follow Trans-Canada Highway. Put in your GPS, Lake Louise as the destination for now.
  2. Drive to Lake Minnewanka and Vermillion Lakes – Should take about 1 hour to get back to the Highway.
  3. Drive northbound and take the exit towards Bow Valley Parkway leaving the Trans Canada Highway. This is a slower road but chances of wildlife and soaking in history are higher.
  4. First stop is Johnston Canyon. Takes about 1.5 hours for about a mile long round trip hike to the spectacular Lower Falls.

    Johnston Canyon

    Johnston Canyon

  5. Drive slow to spot wildlife, remnants of forest fires and terrain battered by landslides.
  6. Merge into the Trans Canada Highway at Castle Junction and travel north.The Bow River flows south along the road here to your right.
    1. You will also spot some interesting bridges – they are for the bears to cross the highway safely.
  7. Next up is Lake Louise. It is highly visited especially during summer months as the roads are closed until mid-May due to risk of avalanches. There is a hotel – Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise, where you will park the car. A hike around the pristine waters will give you ample opportunities to soak in the beauty. Don’t forget to look around for avalanche debris. Whole trip here should take about 2 hours.
  8. From Lake Louise, follow directions to Moraine Lake. Looking at the deep blue

    waters of the lake surrounded by 10 peaks is an incredible experience. A little hike up the hill created by avalanche debris, will give you an awesome view from the vantage point. The log pile in front of the lake after the parking lot creates a nice foreground for the photography enthusiasts. Taking in the beauty and doing a bit of hiking around should take about 1 hour. Can you guess why the waters in the lake are so blue? Check the answer here.

  9. We chose to end our day after tiring hikes and posing for numerous pictures all day. We will continue this journey on Day 2, but the evening can be spent at the beautiful town of Banff.

Day 2

  1. Fill up gas and your stomach before hitting the road. This will be a much lighter day, and we can revisit one of the hikes or trails that we missed out yesterday. We will head towards Yoho National Park first. About a 45 minute drive from Banff, after the intersection of Icefields parkway, DSC_1732Instead of going towards Icefields Parkway (which we will do on our third day), stay on Trans Canada highway towards Yoho National Park.
  2. Along the road, try spotting some bears as this is a nice habitat for bears by the railroad tracks. Why? As the grain carriages on the tracks may leak some grains which attract bears, causing a number of bear deaths. You will hear train whistles along the way as well to keep bears away from the tracks.
  3. About 15 minutes in, you will spot the Continental Divide which is also the Alberta and British Columbia border. The rivers on either side of the divide flows in opposite directions.

     

  4. Don’t miss the Spiral Tunnels pull out. You may have to wait a bit for the best experience. You may be able to spot a train, which will pass above itself through the spiral tunnels at various levels. This was done due to the steep mountain side that the engineers had to build necessary rail tracks to transport goods. It’s an incredible site. A train generally passes through here every half an hour.
  5. As you drive west along the Yoho parkway, you will spot the upper tunnels as well. We will drive towards Emerald Lake. You will see Natural Bridge signs. This road is typically closed during winters and does not open until early June. We missed the lake and the bridge, but the road up is picturesque enough to fill your appetite.

     

  6. As you drive down to the main highway, take a left towards Field, BC. If you go west, the road takes straight to Vancouver, BC, and is about 9 hour ride. Stop at the idyllic town of Field, BC. It is a charming town in the summer, but winter is harsh here as the towering Mt. Steven hinders sunlight from getting here. Grab a bite in the small town stylish cafes before hitting the road.
  7. Quick turn left to take a steep climb up through a seasonal road towards Takkaka Falls. Pull out at the sign to see the meeting of the waters to the right. Difference between glacial greenish water of Yoho river and clearer waters of Kicking Horse river meet here in a whirlwind. Through multiple switchbacks up, reach the lot for the spectacular Takkaka falls.
  8. This is the wet side of the continental divide, and the vegetation is much greener than the rugged landscape of the other side. But look out for steep slopes that are devoid of any trees. It is a sign of deadly avalanches and landslides have depleted any vegetation.
  9. The Takkaka Falls are fed by the hidden icefields above it which has about 8 different glaciers. The falls are one of the tallest in Canada, and the gigantic amount of water coming down eroded the landscape for ages to create the sharp cliff and gorge.
  10. On your way back down to the highway, look at the Spiral Tunnels from a higher vantage point. On the highway before crossing the AB/BC border, the nice lake of Wapta Lake will be on your right.
  11. Once past the provincial border into Alberta, you are inside Banff National Park again from Yoho National Park. We will end our day here on the road, and spend the afternoon in town of Banff. There are plenty to keep yourselves busy in Banff. Tomorrow is Icefields parkway, and will start very early.

Day 3

  1. Begin as early as possible, preferably before 6am. Fill up gas tank and coffee mugs. From Banff, drive up north about 40 minutes and take the exit towards Icefields Parkway into Jasper. This is voted the best mountain drive in the world. Hopefully you are here around sunrise to spot the golden crowns of the steep peaks around you.
  2. First stop is at Herbert Lake. On a still day, the reflections of the mountains on the lake is inspirational at its best. Many people would stop at the shoulder of the road to take the pictures. DSC_1767
  3. At a distance, about 15 minutes later, you will see Hector Lake which is a large water body only accessible via a trail.
  4. Next up is Bow Lake which has a pristine calm beauty around it. The view is spectacular from the road, but even better is from a tiny alley north of the lake. The alley on the left will take you to the lodge Nampti-Ja, and the view from that level (lake level) is incredible. From here you can spot the Bow Glacier as well.
  5.  Next up is the Bow Summit and the Peyto Lake. The best photo opportunity appears after a steep but short hike. Many postcards, travel magazine covers and wallpapers feature a photo of this. It is about 2500 meters above sea level, so a brief period of out-of-breath is common.
  6. Next up is Snowbird Glacier on your left getting its name from the shape like a bird spreading its wings. There is a small shoulder pull out for a quick stop and snap pictures.
  7. Continuing up north, you will see multiple noteworthy mountain peaks – Mt. Weed on the right hand side, Mt. Cephren pyramid shaped peaks on left, Mt. Wilson with the back of the icefield on top. Stop at the Mistaya Canyon for a quick hike (~30 minutes) through the narrow canyons. You will see washouts caused by melting snow and heavy glaciers. One of them is a big washout on your right.
  8. About 10-15 minutes north, you will see the wide Graveyard Flats where Alexandra and Saskatchewan rivers meet. On your right up ahead is Mt. Coleman with the green vegetation, look out for mountain goats on the cliff. You will see Sakatchewan Glacier and Mt. Andromeda from up ahead.
  9. As you pass the Big Bend, you will spot the end of the glacier and beginning of the river. Mt. Athabasca and Mt. Andromeda, two of the highest mountain peaks in the Rockies, can be seen from the bend ahead. You will enter the Jasper National Park from here.
  10. Next up is the Columbia Icefields where you will spend 2-3 hours exploring the glacier and surrounding vista including the Glacier Skywalk. Read more here.

  11. Quick stop ahead is the Tangle Falls on the right. Set your shutter speed slower and smaller aperture for a nice water strands of the falls falling in multiple stages. Take a closer look up ahead of the Stutfield Glacier.

    Stutfield Glacier

    Stutfield Glacier

  12. Endless chain ridge, a row of knife like peaks, 17 mile in length with highest peak at 9000 feet will be visible to your right. Quick entry on the left and an easy walk to Sunwapta Falls is warranted here.
  13. Past a bunch of lakes like Buck Lake and Honeymoon Lake, drive up towards Athabasca Falls. This is where heavy amounts of water from the river of the same name plunges down through a narrow canyon. Try to capture the falls with the gorgeous mountains in the backdrop.
  14. Press on towards the town of Jasper. You will see the Valley of the Five Lakes which is a 1-2 hour easy trail that takes you to 5 pristine but tiny lakes. But may not be a good one to do on the short time today. So lets skip it, and revisit if you are staying a night in Jasper. You will spot the Pyramid Mountains and Whistlers Mountain Trams up ahead.
  15. End the drive in Jasper town for an evening snack or dinner. We drove back to Banff the same evening, but not recommended. Try to find reservation in one of the quaint lodges in Jasper.

Okay, that’s it for the road trip. Please note that a 3 day itinerary is slightly aggressive, but can easily be stretched into four, especially if weather Gods are not merciful on one of the days. Hope you enjoyed the tour. Please reach out via comments or Instagram/Twitter if we can be of any help to put together an itinerary for you.

Below is a map view. You can also download the map for navigation here.

[googlemaps https://www.google.com/maps/d/embed?mid=1X1UvqbRdHrrVw1YdIyXnUzs9r2BtXOaX&w=640&h=480]

Jasper National Park

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Back to Alberta

So you have seen Banff already, and may be thinking twice on making the long drive along icefields parkway? Do not even flinch. The two parks next to each other actually are vastly different. While Banff offers more accessible yet spectacular views, Jasper National Parks is actually much more rugged, wild and unforgiving, albeit dramatic.

Suggested Time Spent: 1-2 Days   |    Best Time to Visit: May – Oct     |    Entry Fee: CAD 9.80 per adult (incl. w/ Banff NP)

As you drive north from Banff National Park, as you pass the Saskatchewan river crossing, you will enter the famous Icefields Parkway and Jasper National Park. You will not need additional passes if you already have bought the pass for Banff National Park.

Geology

As you embark on this 140 mile stretch of the Icefields Parkway, it is imperative that you gain some insights from a geological standpoint, to make viewing mega-glaciers and rugged terrains more fulfilling. Geology is a topic very close to us and a simplified version of the geologic history is fairly frowned upon. But in order for brevity, here is a simplified version – Tectonic movements of plates caused seabed to rise up 500 million years ago. From then, years of weathering by glaciers, rain and wind has caused some cliffs to be steep and some blunted. These are some of the oldest land on earth, whereas the land in British Columbia is much younger as they were formed by lava coming out of the subduction zones between the two plates. Get all your answers on our short coverage of the Geology of this area.

Things to see

There are plenty of marked attractions along the road, which we will list below, but remember, the real fun happens while you are on your way from one point to the next. Look out for flora and fauna, landscape changes, and the glaciers above. Many attractive features in this park are actually not marked, and can only be seen from the trails or side of the highway. We begin from the south make our way up north.

  • Columbia Icefields and Athabasca Glacier: The Athabasca glacier is one of the biggest attractions, rightfully so, in this area. What you see now is only remnants of the ice cover on this part of the country millions of years ago. It is situated at a slightly elevated plateau, and is surrounded by a number of peaks making it a sweet-spot for photographers. The glacier is like a frozen river where the ice is constantly on the move. The movement of the glacier has and is still shaping the topography of the area. Due to climate warming, the glacier’s recession is actually overwhelming the progress; you can spot the area where the glacier’s receded from. Jasper Cover
    • There is a ticket booth where you can buy the tickets. We did not buy them online, therefore wasting a bit of time. But if your tour itinerary is finalized, buy the tickets here. Please note that you cannot go on top of the glacier on your own. Only vehicles designed to move in the terrain can take you up there. We bought the combo of glacier walk and the skywalk (which was merely a tourist trap in our opinion).
    • When your group is called upon, you will be transported via a shuttle to the ‘Mars Rover’ like vehicle that will take you to the glacier. It goes through an extremely steep decline that normal tires will not be able to endure. The treading in these massive tires are about 6 inches deep. Not surprisingly, not a comfy ride, but the destination, the Athabasca glacier is incredible. It is below freezing here with the windchill coming down the glacier, so not advisable to stay more than 20-25 minutes.
    • When standing on the glacier, you cannot feel the movement of the 10,000 year old ice sheet. But look around the cliffs and you can visualize the thickness it used to have in the pre-historic times. Look up the cliffs and you will see thick (200-250 meters deep in different areas) ice sheets of the Columbia Icefield which is 215 sq. km. in area.
  • Sunwapta Falls: While you will spot many waterfalls along the way, most of them unnamed, this one needs a quick hike to the hanging valleys. Massive amounts of water cascades down a U-shaped broad valley. It was created when a large glacier receded 10,000 years ago, creating a deep limestone gorge below. The mist created by the plunging water makes the ambiance surreal, especially with some cloud cover.
  • Athabasca Falls: Along the Icefield Parkway, you will spot the 23 foot high Athabasca falls on your right. It is one of the most powerful falls due to the large amount of water that the Athabasca glacier fed river of the same name cuts into the softer limestone creating a deep gorge.
  • Mt. Edith Cavell: It was closed when we got there, but if open, a trail lets you look at the peak and traces of the icefield along its sides. There are lookouts though on the Icefields Parkway that you can spot the peak from.
  • Maligne Lake: Through a by road on the right, a trail takes you to one of the most picturesque lakes surrounded by snow-clad peaks. It is an incredible experience to kayak in the lake. As you paddle on the turquoise waters and get to the middle of the lake, you will be tired of clicking pictures of one peak to the other around it.
  • Town of Jasper: We recommend ending the day here in one of the little restaurants or cafes having a bite. If it is a clear day, you can spot the peaks of the Colin range and the jagged peaks of the Athabasca valley. There are lodging options available, but due to high demand, tends to fill out fast.

We came back to Banff the same day, spotting animals and the sunset glow on the ice peaks. The drive was tiring but was worth it to be able to spot so much wildlife as it was the time when they all come out.

Spotting Wildlife

While driving the magnificent Icefields Parkway, slow down. Not only to admire the scenery but also to look out for wildlife roaming around. Due to their camouflage, it is anyway hard to spot them in the sides of the road. But if you look carefully, and know what to look for, spotting a bear or two, porcupines, deer and even an occasional moose can be spotted. We even got lucky and got to see a huge Grizzly bear pretty close to the highway, and a baby black bear crossing the road along with a few more at a distance. Close to sunset and right around sunrise are the best times to spot wildlife.

Mountain Goats are another interesting topic here. They were not originally from here, and were introduced to the area by the explorers. They do not have enough nutrients from the vegetation here, so they lick glacial debris for essential minerals. It will not be difficult to spot Mountain Goats in the cliffs of the Jasper National Park. Make sure to have a high speed camera with a longer tele-lens ready for action. See below on what we could admire and capture in our lenses.

Banff National Park

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Back to Alberta

A short drive from Calgary, one of the oldest national parks of the world, Banff National Park is home to placid lakes, sharp cliffs, glaciers, snow clad mountain ranges and a diverse ecology. Here, you will spot serene lakes as you may spot bars in New York City. While you can choose to come during any time of the year, certain roads may not be accessible in winter.

Suggested Time Spent: 2 Days   |    Best Time to Visit: May – Oct     |    Entry Fee: CAD 9.80 per adult

As you drive from Calgary to Banff National Park through the Trans-Canada Highway 1, you will pass the entrance. To save some time, buy the pass online. Unless you are going to visit multiple parks in the same year, only buy the day pass that is valid for two consecutive days.

Geology

Before hitting the road and the trails in Banff National Park, it is good to have an idea on the geologic history of the Canadian Rockies. Tectonic activity and glaciers primarily formed and shaped the topography of this area. Get all your answers on our short coverage of the Geology of this area here.

Things to see

Banff National Park has plenty of marked attractions for photography and hiking, but real treasures are often in the ‘road less taken’. So even if we recommended 2 full days, we also suggest taking a break from the list of places to cover and go in that trail that looks interesting, albeit safety permitting.

We set up our base in Canmore in a charming little cabin. There is debate on whether to stay in the town of Banff or Canmore. Banff is inside the park, therefore is, not surprisingly, extremely touristy. Whereas Canmore, outside the park boundaries, is a quaint town and has a bit more local feeling. Here are a list of spots that cannot be missed –

  • Lake Minnewanka and Vermillion Lakes: As you exit the highway towards the town of Banff, a small byway will take you to the serene Lake Minnewanka and the Vermillion Lakes. Soak in the beauty of the reflection of the mountains behind on placid lake waters before hitting the road to a few more attractions.
  • Johnston Canyon: Driving north on the Trans-Canada highway, first major stop is at the Johnston Canyon. A quick hike up on a fairly flat trail takes you to the narrow but spectacular Lower Falls. You can crouch up through a small tunnel to get closer to the falls.DSC_1491
  • Lake Moraine: This is one of the top most attractions in the park, with seven peaks surrounding the pristine waters of the lake. Dramatic landscape with clouds hanging above the cliffs, makes incredible photographic memories. There is an easy hike up to a small rock pile (possibly created by glacier debris, known as Moraines) from where you can get magnificent views of the lake with all the seven peaks in the background and reflections of the same in the foreground. In late May, we found portions of the lake surface still being frozen, but between June and September, the view is even more exceptional. Try to spot all the 10 peaks surrounding the lake.
  • Lake Louise: This is the flagship attraction of the park. Hike the popular Lake Agnes trail for an up close view of the Mt. Saint Piran. In summer and early fall, the water of the lake becomes so still and reflective that you can clearly see the peak merely from the reflections. This is in an avalanche zone, so look to the right and you will see evidences of landslides all around.
  • Bow Lake: Further north on the highway, you will reach the pristine Bow lake which is the source of the Bow river that accompanied you so far along the highway. The turquoise blue of the lake with reflections of the Bow glacier makes unparalleled photographic opportunity.
  • Peyto Lake: Slightly to the north, is another gem. In late may, we found the trail up to the Bow summit mostly frozen. But we still endured the treacherous hike up to the summit for a fascinating view of the turquoise glacier lake with Mistaya mountains to the left and Marmot mountain range in the far right background. Be careful on your way down, as the trail may be slippery.
  • Yoho National Park: A gem hidden inside the larger park, this is a few must-see attractions including the Takkakaw falls and Emerald Lake.
    • There is a lookout for the Spiral Tunnels which is still used for cargo trains. The slope was so steep when they tried building a railroad here that the coaches would dangerously slide back down the slope. Therefore an ingenious solution to build multi-level tunnels was designed. If you wait a bit, you may spot a cargo train spiraling from tunnel to tunnel. The tunnel pitch is so short that at some points, the same train can be seen entering into one tunnel and exiting another at a different level. Don’t miss it.
  • Town of Banff: We recommend ending your day here. Walk around the streets filled with local souvenirs and interesting restaurants. Grab a beverage and some food in one of the pretty restaurants, and end with an ice cream at the COWs Ice Cream Shop. While you are in town, walk to the gorgeous Cascade Gardens, stone clad Park Canada building and the scenic Fenland Trail. DSC_1756

Noteworthy Info

  • Forest rangers have found ways to minimize wildfire damage by producing controlled burns. You will spot remnants of these burns at the lower altitudes.
  • Something interesting happens when the Pines are burnt. You may spot new trees have sprouted in the forest full of ancient ones. Under fire, the Pinus cones release a type of resin that germinates paving way to grow new trees whereas other trees perish in a controlled fire.
  • Meadows around the road in the lower altitudes show stories of the rise of tourism, beginning at the stage of horse driven carriages to the modern day cars.

Tips for an incredible trip

  • DO NOT speed up in these roads due to dangerous curves and wild animals.
  • Do Not stop if you spot a bear walking by or grazing. Slow down and take photos as you slowly cruise by.
  • Take the Bow Valley Parkway between Banff and Castle Junction. This road runs parallel to albeit at a slower pace than the Trans-canada highway, but gives you ample opportunities to soak in the beauty around.

 

Kancamagus Highway

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An open road well balanced with caffeine, gasoline and love can take you a long way, literally! Add in an exuberance of fall foliage around it while the sun shines brightly above; it is a recipe for a good day at work.

As residents of the New England area, fall is a particularly exciting season for us. Not only because of the impending winter right after, but also because of the scenery around you along with the festivities that springs to life. Perfect time to hit the road on a sunny weekend for a day or a weekend getaway. Among several others, Kancamagus highway in New Hampshire White Mountains is a particularly special one. It is an easy ride with enough hikes to keep you exercised and quick enough to cover in a 7-8 hour day for a New England resident.

Begin At: Conway, NH  |  Suggested Duration: 5 Hours   |   Recommended Time of Visit: Fall (Mid-Sept – Mid-Oct)

We will take you through our journey along with some key tips to make this road trip memorable. Scroll down for a Google Maps view of the highway, but here is a snapshot of the official map –

Kancamagus Map

Official Kancamagus Highway Map

We begin the road trip from the visitor center in Conway, NH in the eastern most side of the Kancamagus Highway. Follow the map for planning purposes.

Brief History

The name Kancamagus comes from the peace loving tribal chief of the legendary Indians, Passaconaway, of New Hampshire. European settlers lived in the fertile land along the Swift river in 1790. The road connecting Conway and Lincoln was established and opened to traffic in 1959. Now US Forest Service maintains the road and recreational areas, that support hiking, skiing, swimming and kayaking. Trails and overlooks provide ample opportunity for visitors to hike and soak in the panoramic vistas of the Kancamagus mountains and the valleys.

Scenic Route

There are multiple scenic spots along the way. Mileage from the Eastern Entrance is marked below.

  • First Leg: The Swift river runs along the Kancamagus Highway. The main attractions and vantage points are mostly along the river. The first stop to the right is the Albany Covered Bridge (6.1 miles), followed by the Lower Falls (6.8 miles), both of which requires a quick hike. Rocks and boulders in the river allows you to take a better look at the valley up and down stream. On a clear day, foliage colors and the rocky foreground makes for beautiful landscape pictures. The viewing platforms for the Lower Falls make great pictures while appreciating the serenity around. Next up is the Rocky Gorge (9.0 miles) that is a highly photogenic area with a beautiful flume and falls. On your way westward, stop at the Russel Colbath House (12.5 miles) which is a historic house retaining the remains of the Passaconaway village. Before reaching the pass, on your left will be the Sabbaday Falls (15.4 miles)

    which requires an easy 0.6 mile hike to the cascading falls and an emerald pool.

  • Crest: Through the winding roads alongside bright foliage, the road took us to about 3,000 feet high at the Kancamagus Pass (22 miles). There are multiple vantage points facing east and west; feel free to pull over cautiously to soak in the views of the valleys that boast a palette of mixed hues. Notable overlooks, before

    and after the Kancamagus Pass, are Sugar Hill Overlook (17 miles), CL Graham Overlook (21 miles) for views of the Northeast. Best viewed in the afternoon with the sun in the back.

  • The Descent: Once past the pass, the road becomes slightly narrower and more winding while you descend. There are overlooks to view the south and southwest sides now. Pemi Overlook (23 miles) and Hancock Overlook (24 miles) provide

    unobstructed views of the Osceola range. Last notable stop is at the Lincoln Woods (30 miles). A suspension bridge and a fairly long hike on mostly flat terrain should make your day complete. Fall foliage colors might be a bit subdued here due to the presence of conifers.

  • Down and Out: On your way out to Lincoln, there ought to be a quick stop at the Loon Mountain Ski Resort for some stunning views, especially at dusk. Although a tiny town, stop at Lincoln for a quick bite. The Gypsy cafe, (dog friendly) with its whimsical menu of interesting selection of cuisine from around the world, is our favorite.

Key things to know before you go

  • Although you can visit any time of the year, fall makes it the poster child of NH tourism. Timing the visit to experience the explosion of colors at its peak, however, is tricky. Leaves begin to turn at the higher altitudes first. Leaves reach the peak color at the lower altitudes about 1-2 weeks after peaks at the high altitudes. So at any given time, barring about a 8-10 day window, either the high altitudes or lower altitudes will not be at peak. Since the Kancamagus highway strategically goes through both altitudes, you should be able to see a spectrum of color regardless.
  • It is close to impossible to predict what time the colors reach peak, so unfortunately for travelers coming in from outside New England, it is a gamble. As it gets closer to the middle of September, however, foliage tracking is a bit more predictable. Check these two amazing resources to fine tune your timing – NH Foliage Tracker and New England Live Foliage Map.
  • Kancamagus Highway is the road between Lincoln, NH (in the west) and Conway, NH (in the east). You can enter from either side, but going from East to West has its benefits. First, likely you are going to finish the trip in the evening just before sunset. The glow is best observed from the hikes in the western end. Also, the attractions in the eastern side are better observed during the day. Finally, Lincoln is a quaint town for dinner and is closer to a major highway connecting to Boston.
  • There is no cellphone reception after you cross the visitor center in Conway, NH. So pick up a map from the visitor center. It is fairly easy to navigate as the hikes and attractions are well marked.
  • Quite obvious, but please adhere to the speed limits. The road is not treacherous, but bicyclists and wildlife frequent this road. While you admire the fall foliage, please keep an eye on the bicyclists and wildlife.
  • There are no food or beverages sold in the 35 mile stretch between Conway and Lincoln. So pick up some food/lunch from Conway that you can eat in the picnic benches along the way.
  • There are no gas stations along the way, and gas prices are high in Lincoln. So fill up the tank before entering the road.

Interactive Map

Feel free to use the downloadable map below for your Kancamagus expedition.

[googlemaps https://www.google.com/maps/d/embed?mid=1XOeVRftWKgVEomwEpY8V_IA4aXDipvPV&w=840&h=380]

Brussels

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Back to Belgium

Capital city of Belgium, filled with architecture from medieval to renaissance period, and home to an incredibly diverse populace, too many tourists include just one day to explore Brussels. In our first visit, we too did the same only to realize in subsequent trips that what hidden gems are not talked about in the touristy blogs.

Less touristy things to do

Let’s spin the usual sequence and start from the places typically in the bottom half of an average tourist’s itinerary in Brussels. We recommend these, but not at the expense of the more attractive places in the next section. Here is a list –

  • Comic Strip Route – Large murals of famous comic book characters, like Asterix and Tintin which precede American superheroes by decades, can be found in this area in downtown Brussels. Spend ~1 Hour to enjoy the artifacts.
  • Jeanneke Pis – Similar to the pissing boy statue, this is the girl version of the statue. Should take about 15 minutes to visit and take pictures.
  • Musical Instruments Museum – One of its kind, especially in the Art Nouveau culture. Allow a couple of hours to pay a visit and appreciate interesting musical instruments from around the world.

Top Touristy Attractions

  • Grand Place – Tucked away in the center of the city surrounded by renaissance age buildings and churches, Grand Place is an expansive square which is flocked by tourists and locals alike. Narrow alleys with cobblestone charm diverge from the square. Walk along them for satisfying your shopping needs and appetite. Some of the restaurants around here are somewhat pricey and are touristy, but are also legendary. This is where every time you will go to Brussels will visit at least once. So take time to walk around and familiarize yourselves better.

    Food and drinks are a must mention here –

    • Waffles – Street side waffle shops sell cheap and decorative waffles. Pick one up and indulge yourselves in probably the tastiest waffles you may have ever had.
    • French Fries – Did you know that the origin of French fries actually goes back to Brussels? Hear about those myths and legends while you are in Brussels. There are many places to enjoy these sinful diet killers in Brussels, but the best of them is a tiny place near Grand Place, is called Georgette’s (Friterie Du Cafe Georgette). There will be long lines, so be ready for that.
    • Beer – Want to indulge in those duvel and tripels while in Belgium? Beyond the standard cafes and bars around the city center, our favorite has been the Delirium Cafe or Little Delirium Cafe with its 100+ beer selection and a quaint ambiance.
  • Atomium – If you find time, take a cab/uber to the Atomium from the city center, an interesting structure resembling an Iron (Fe) atom with its large nucleus and eight electrons. The spheres are 165 billion times larger than the actual electrons. Visitors now can actually enter the spheres to appreciate the landscape around and the city.
  • Some of the other attractions are – Old England House, Magritte Museum and Congress Center towards the south of Grand Place.

Amsterdam

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Remember those canals and the bridges in Venice; there are about 500 bridges there. Amsterdam boasts a mighty 1200 bridges over its looping canal system. Let’s do another fun fact – how many bicycles are there in Amsterdam? Including owned and rental ones, there are close to 0.9 million bicycles for a resident base of 800,000. Have appetite for another one – how many houseboats are there in Amsterdam? 3,500!

Our intent was not to bore you with trivia, rather wanted to underline what a fun city Amsterdam is. From the blissful walks alongside the canals to sinful visits to the coffeeshops and the red-light district, a few days in Amsterdam and the world’s your oyster. It is worth mentioning here, that with its fortification around the city and the canals originally meant as a defense mechanism from floods and invasion, is now a renowned UNESCO World Heritage Site. Find out more on our rendezvous with other UNESCO World Heritage Sites here.

Let’s look at what can we do in a 3-4 day itinerary. Will revisit the fun facts at the bottom of this page.

Canals and Bridges

On your way to the city center from the Schipol airport, you will cross several canals. These canals (we heard that there were 150+ canals) are both heart and armor of the city, serving as one of the best ways to navigate as well as a system to defend against impending flooding. Towards the coast, you will get to see and walk on the famous dykes, but the canals system along with the picturesque bridges around town are a treat to the eyes. Some bridges operate as lock gates that lift up for passing ships. Taking a canal tour with hop on hop off facility is the best way to explore the canals, bridges and exquisite architecture around them. Featured in numerous movies and sets of famous paintings by Monet, the views from the canal cruises will tire your fingers from clicking pictures. Be sure to keep an eye on the tilted houses (aka dancing houses) and the houseboats around the cruise trip.

Museums

Amsterdam was home to a number of famous contemporary artists (e.g. Rembrandt, Vermeer and Van Gogh) as well as historic landmarks. It is no surprise that it boasts quite a few museums varying in their sizes and importance. Listed below are a few (ordered in decreasing priority in our opinion) that you can and should accommodate in your 3-4 day itinerary –

  • Anne Frank House: If you have read the book Anne Frank’s Diary, this museum is going to bring the melancholy memoirs of the little girl during the holocaust. I feel it is a must for every responsible citizen of the world to learn and empathize with DSC_1134the victims of the period of insanity during WWII, and the museum does a good job of taking the visitor through the intricacies of the life of an average Jew through the eyes of Anne Frank.
    • Note that there is often a long wait to get in; so buy the tickets online for a scheduled time. Check hours and buy tickets here.
    • Tickets: Adults €10  |  Hours: 9AM – 7PM or 9AM – 10PM (winters)  |  Suggested Time Spent: 2 Hours
  • Rijksmuseum: Probably the most popular museum in the city, the Dutch national museum, located in the museum quarter (museumplein), hosts art and history from the middle ages to modern times. It features legendary artwork by Rembrandt, Vermeer, Van Gogh, Hals and Jan Steen, along with depiction of art history from around the world. Beyond appreciating the master pieces, we found the depiction of colonial times in Asia and Latin America were provocative and powerful.
    • Note that there is always a long line (wait times can be up to 4 hours) to get in, because of capacity constraints and popularity. So definitely buy the tickets online to save some time here.
    • Tickets: Adults €17.50  |  Hours: 9AM – 7PM |  Suggested Time Spent: 2 – 3 Hours
  • Van Gogh Museum: Located in the museumplein, this hosts the world’s largest collection of paintings by the prominent painter from the impressionism era. The museum does a great job of following the life story of the short lived icon, from his early life in the Netherlands, Paris till the end in southern France. It houses paintings and letters from some of his contemporaries too, making it a holistic experience for an art lover.
    • This is also an extremely crowded museum, so do yourself a favor by buying the tickets in advance here.
    • Tickets: Adults €18  |  Hours: 9AM – 5PM |  Suggested Time Spent: 2 Hours
  • Moco Museum: Last but not the least, located in the same plaza in a 19th century townhouse, this is the museum of modern art. We are not big fans of modern art, but still the collection blew our minds. Our favorite was the Banksy collection of street art.
    • Tickets: Adults €13.50  |  Hours: 9AM – 5PM |  Suggested Time Spent: 1 Hour
  • There are a couple of other museums that we would have loved to sneak in, Stedelijk Museum, Rembrandthuis, and Foam, but need to postpone till the next visit.

Red-light District

As you may have heard, Amsterdam has a fairly open culture with it being neutral to prostitution and drugs. While some of it is hyped up, there are some controlled elements of both in play here. The relatively small district is made up of a bunch of alleys and a section along the canal, where sex shops, live sex theaters and neon lit aisles with scantily clad women market their ‘product’ or ‘service’!Ams XXX Sign

Best time to visit (sorry for being Ms. Obvious), is around 10 p.m. when the area springs back to life. Our top picks in the area (not for the fainthearted, we warn you) –

  • Hit a coffeeshop (Bulldog the First is our pick) for a reefer or a joint (remember to research the difference beforehand lest you are hit with a surprise),
  • Appreciate the windows with red curtains (!) along the alleys in De Wallen, and what’s inside. Don’t ask for pricing details; not our thing. But look out for the blue neon lights that stands out from the ubiquitous red neons. Find out for yourself what that means (this is the surprise element, no judgments)
  • For the more curious, hop into one of the live sex theaters or peep shows. Typically they show all kinds of sex encounters (straight, gay, S&M, bondage, etc.), and note that these are performances only.

Note – Although it is highly controlled, so a fairly safe place to roam around after dark, be cautious for pickpockets. Also, cannot emphasize enough, do not take pictures of the prostitutes on the windows or in the theaters.

Miscellaneous

In a 3-4 day trip going from one site to other within the city, you will be able to experience the city neighborhoods and appreciate their individual charm. While on foot, do hop into the random coffeeshops (for coffee, not canabis all the time) and small restaurants for some local fare. While in museumplein, don’t forget a picture with the I Amsterdam sign (although is full of tourists 24 hours a day!). There are several farmers markets, and festivals during the holidays where you can taste artisan cheese and craft beer to your hearts content. For a beer aficionado, a quick trip to the Heineken museum may be worth it – we are not big fans of big box lager beer, plus is not a working brewery, so skipped it. Instead, go to Albert Cuyp Market during the day and fill up your appetite and thirst alike. You won’t regret it, believe us. For people watching and relaxing, our favorite has been the Rembrandt Square.

Slightly underrated is the history of diamond in the city. The quest for diamond in Congo by King Leopold of Belgium is well known, but back in the days, the Dutch excelled in mining and marketing diamond jewelry too. A quick visit to the Gassan Diamond Tour may be worthwhile, but can seem monotonous and a sales trick to some. We wouldn’t advise buying from their shop inside due to lack of assurance of quality, even though it may appear cheaper.

Tips and Tricks to Navigate the City

  • Hopefully you plan to visit the famous museums in the city; if that is so, buy the Amsterdam city pass. It will save you some money but more importantly, TIME.
  • Try to avoid uber/taxis whenever possible as the routes may seem short but will take a long time due to traffic and narrow roadways. Try walking or renting a bike whenever possible. Taking the canal taxis can also be helpful depending on weather.
  • We are foodie travelers, but apart from craft beer, cheese and canabis, there is not much to blow your mind. But while you are here, definitely try a loaded Stroopwafel and a Dutch favorite Rookworst.
  • By the North Sea, the summers can be chilly sometimes, so pack a light jacket. It also apparently rains intermittently all year. May be buy an umbrella with the XXX sign 🙂

 

Vatican City

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The smallest country in the world with less than a square kilometer in area, having its own police force, army and diplomatic corps, Vatican City sits as an island within the Rome city limits separated by a wall. The state was established in the middle ages, and was obliterated in the 19th century under the Italian state, but was finally re-established in 1929 in lieu of the Lateran Treaty between the Italian state and the Holy See.

Suggested Time Spent: 5 Hours     |     Admission: €40.00+ for Adults   |    Hours: Varies (Check details here)

Roaming around the St. Peter’s Basilica you will spot guards in their fancy dresses; theyVatican Swiss Guards are the Swiss Guards. Originally founded in the 16th century by Julius II for Pope’s personal security, their evocative uniforms designed by Michaelangelo himself has remained the same for five centuries.

Top things to see

As you enter through the doors of the Vatican, you will be guided through the museums and the gardens, eventually making way to the St. Peter’s square. While you can roam around as much as you want, it is difficult to come back to Sistine Chapel without a tour group, so take your time while there. We list out some of the key attractions –

St. Peter’s Basilica 

Possibly the most iconic of the buildings, the dome visible from afar, St. Peter’s Basilica sits at the top of the St. Peter’s square. This is where the heart of Christianity has resided for two thousand years. Constantine, converted to Christianity, built a basilica at the spot where St. Peter was martyred. First residence of the Bishop was also built here in the 500’s. Over time this grew in size, and use of the basilica has evolved. Many famous artists including Raphael, Michaelangelo, Bramante and Carlo Maderno were commissioned to enhance the beauty and dominant structures.

It was in 1600’s when Bernini built the huge piazza (see below) and the current intricate facade of the Basilica. Top of the dome, commissioned by Michaelangelo is accessible by 500 steps. At the top of the facade, there are equestrian statues of Constantine , first Christian Emperor and first Emperor of the Holy Roman Empire. There are five entrances to the Basilica, each with its own flamboyant artistry.

Feel free to ditch the tour group as you enter the majestic Basilica, the biggest Christian Church, and your jaw drops admiring the incredible detail and peaceful vastness. Pieta by Michaelangelo and the Statue of St. Peter are remarkable. You won’t miss the gigantic Baroque structure in bronze, Baldachin by Bernini. Under this structure is the Tomb of St. Peter.

Piazza San Pietro

An elliptical area harmoniously open to the heavens and an obelisk with the True Cross at its peak reaching up to the heavens, St. Peter’s Square has been the center of Christianity for centuries. Featured in many popular movies, this piazza is flocked by tourists all the time. This is where the papal audience swarms in and the faithful cheer on during the pope election process.

On the perimeter, you will find astonishing colonnades by Bernini with 284 Doric pillars and 140 statues set in perfect harmony. There are two remarkable fountains as well on either side of the obelisk. From the end of the piazza, the triangular roof of the Sistine Chapel along with the famous chimney is also visible.

Sistine Chapel

Our first glimpse of the inside of the Sistine Chapel was a mixed bag of awe for the number of masterpieces all around, and the smaller than expected size of it. From the novels and movies, it appeared larger; but in no means the grandeur of the artwork alone dumbstruck us. About 40 meters long, 20 meters high and 13 meters wide, it was built in the 15th century sort of imitating Noah’s Ark. Frescoes in the walls contain scenes from Life of Moses to Life of Jesus by Botticelli, Signorelli, Perugino and

Pinturicchio. The greatest masterpieces though are in the ceiling – by Michelangelo between 1508 and 1512. The gigantic biblical scenes, executed by the artist alone, including a variety of poses ranging from the Creation and Original Sin to Redemption. The most iconic is the Creation of Adam where the divine finger is almost touching the first man. The other significant work worth mentioning here is the Last Judgement in the wall made up of 390 naked yet uniquely posing figures surrounding the Christ and the Judge.

Vatican Museums

On and around the Basilica, you will walk through different halls within the Vatican Museum. The intricate artwork and vivid paintings in the hallways and staircases will overwhelm you in minutes. I tried taking notes, but could not keep pace. From what I could recall, over time, the Vatican museums have accumulated so much worth of antiquities, from Egyptian and medieval tapestries to Renaissance paintings, that it is humanely impossible to admire in one go. See below some pictures, though admittedly they do not do justice.

The Gallery of Maps on your way to the Raphael rooms is one of our favorites. It boasts topographical maps of the Italian peninsula from a 16th century perspective. If looked at carefully, you will find intricate historical evidence (e.g. Malta being part of Italy) and that history is written by winners. The vaulted ceilings, however, with its vibrant colors steal the thunder easily.

Before entering the Raphael rooms through the narrow corridor, look out of the balcony to the Belvedere Courtyard which was home to Pope Julius II. But surprise! Its a parking lot now, and looking at those fancy Alpha Romeos will suddenly bring you back to reality from appreciating the splendor inside. But keep walking to the incredible Raphael Rooms where 16th century renaissance masterclasses by Raphael are embellished on the vaulted ceilings and the walls. I would list down the paintings here, but it is a rather long and arduous task which I’d like to refrain from lest the reader loses interest.

Tips

  • More than 15,000 people on average visit Vatican city every day! So expect things to get a bit crowded.
  • Because of the same reason above, there is a queue every day at the entrance to the Vatican Museums. The wait times can be up to 5 hours at its worst. So, definitely buy the tickets online.
  • Even with a ‘skip the line’ kind of ticket, the tour groups in a guided tour are not small, and in the crowd it becomes difficult to follow. Instead be an early bird and get there before 7:30 a.m. Foot traffic is a lot less at that hour, and will give you a bit more breathing space to enjoy the masterpieces.
  • The tours, for whatever reason, is extremely hurried. You hardly get a chance to appreciate the splendor.
  • Remember, the tickets are one time use only but gives you access to all the museums inside. Take your time and plan ahead to spend up to 5 hours inside.
  • Dress Code – The Vatican has a fairly strict dress code. Cover your shoulders (no off-shoulder or halter neck tops/dresses) and knees (no shorts, hot pants and short skirts/dresses). Because Rome gets pretty hot during the summer months, bring a shrug or light scarf to cover the bare skin while you are inside. Also, hats and food are not allowed.
  • Passport/Visa – Remember this is a different country, so carrying your passport is advisable, although we never had to show it. Visa is not required if you are in the Schengen area, and no, you won’t get your passport stamped in Vatican ;-).
  • Photography – While it is generally okay to take as many photos as you want, it is absolutely not allowed in the Sistine Chapel. Do not try, guards are watching punctiliously.  Instead, stay quiet and look up to admire the Michaelangelo’s.

Trastevere Neighborhood

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Rome, as many other cities, cannot be covered in one trip. In your first trip, once you have taken the touristy trips to Colosseum and Vatican City, and threw in a coin in the Trevi Fountain, take a breather to soak in the city vibes a bit farther from the touristy hot-spots and spend an evening strolling through the Trastavere neighborhood.

Located on the west bank of the river Tiber, just south of the Tiberina island, it is a quaint and hip neighborhood swarming with little cafes, cobblestone streets and boutiques. While being developed as a charming little area, its history has been much darker. The slaves were kept here in the medieval times, Jews were sent here to live in tiny quarters during the Christian uprising, and had always been treated as a village for

the poor in the modern times. Some relics suggest that this neighborhood occasionally got its wealthier residents to move in as well along with becoming a hub for sailors due to proximity to the river. Inculcating the mix of abject poverty and a commercial zone, Trastavere developed to being a delightful town outside the city center.

While you walk through the narrow alleys devoid of sunlight, run the imaginations wild to visualize the squalid living of the residents 500 years ago. On your strolls along the cobblestone paths, you will find street art, graffiti covered shutters, incredibly decorated doors, colorful scooters parked in front of vibrant walls and locals mingling outside boutiques and cafes. Take time to appreciate the art while you watch out for a runaway bike in the midst of neighborhood children playing. To some it may appear sordid to see clothes hung to dry from the windows and wires connecting two buildings, that some of the doors are rusted and brickwork peeking from the weathered wall art. But the real glamour is in its people and the history behind it all.

While you are here, pay a visit to the Basilica di Santa Maria Trastavere in the main square. It is one of the oldest in the area, dating back to 12th century. Among all the souvenir shops and cafes in the perimeter of the square, appreciate the architecture of the buildings that has held its own through the ages.

While you are here, leave your diet at the hotel room lest you miss out on the opportunity to relish the delectable homemade pasta and those afogatos (Gelato covered with espresso). Sneak in to one of the cafes camouflaged by plants on its doors and walls, sit on one of the worn out benches to applaud the street performers playing the flute, or just relax in a cafe with outdoor seating sipping the well deserved chianti, no matter what ticks you, you will find something to amuse on here.

The Borghese Gallery

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With its rich heritage of accomplished artists and remarkable artwork, Rome obviously has a lot to offer in terms of art. While some of its inventory of artwork is preserved in museums and churches, there are a whole lot weathering in open air piazzas. Within the realm of museums, while some of the crowded and publicized ones like Sistine Chapel holds renowned paintings, other masterclasses are tucked away in lesser known galleries. One of the examples of such underrated galleries, is the Galleria Borghese Gallery.

Suggested Time Spent: 2-3 Hours     |     Admission: € 15 for Adults    |    Hours: 9AM – 7PM

Home of the famous and influential Borghese family who settled in Rome in the 16th century, the Villa Borghese was built by Giovanni Vasanzio. The family had close ties to the church, with some of them becoming cardinals and one becoming Pope Paul V. The museum has about 10 rooms of varying sizes containing masterpieces ranging from sculptures, frescoes and paintings. Be sure to look up the ceiling and also look down on the floors for beautiful and intricate mosaic art work. The sculptures and frescoes on the doors are worth hundred words too.

Sculptures

The Statue of Paolina Bonaparte (Napoleon’s sister) as Venus by Canova, and David by Bernini, smaller than the one by Michaelangelo are two of the most famous statues. Apollo and Daphne and Rape of Proserpine by Bernini are two other prominent statues decorating the rooms. Embodied in all of the above are feminine sensuality and masculine gladiatorial poise.

Paintings

Among the paintings, Sacred and Profane Love by Titian, Madonna dei Palafrenieri by Caravaggio, Deposition by Raphael and David with the head of Goliath by Caravaggio were our favorites. In the large room, the expansive fresco in the ceiling with Angels and peasants embellished by Christ was impressive.

Due to the sheer lack of crowds and the layout, we could get so close to the artwork. Plus the wide variety of masterclasses on display, starting from the imposing statues by Bernini and the darker sides depicted by Caravaggio, are somewhat unparalleled in all the museums in the area.

Tips

  • Galleria Borghese has a maximum occupancy system that keeps crowds to an optimum level ensuring viewing comfort. So tickets are limited, and a reservation is recommended. We went without one, and had no trouble with crowds, but we heard that it can get busy sometimes. Check the details here.
  • It is one of the few museums with detailed descriptions for each room. So self guided tours are possible, albeit will take a bit more time.
    • If you do not have a human guide, buy the audio guides at the ticket counter, but not required
  • It has a small cafe serving snacks and coffee. Bit pricey but if you are going to take a walk in the large Park Borghese on your way to Piazza del Popolo, suggest filling up the bottles and getting some energy back.

 

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